2007 RT Final Drive Bearing Replacement

[marchyman]

Here is the plate bolted to flange with 5/8ÔÇØ nuts as spacers. The 8ÔÇØ gear puller is mounted on top, grabbing the plate. I heated flange with Benzo-matic torch: took about 12 minutes to get to a temperature where the flange began to move. Once it started moving, it came right off. Now having the proper T40 bit, I would have removed the caliper prior to this step.

Attachment 37257

Another method that can be used to pull the flange is to use a harmonic balancer puller attached to a slide hammer. Mine came as part of a cheap ($12) slide hammer kit. It attached to the flange using three of the wheel lug screws. As you noted it doesn't take much to pull the flange once it is heated. A few gentle taps with the slide hammer did the trick.

[ExGMan]

No differences between old BMW bearing and new NSK bearing. I used calipers to measure OD, ID and thickness.

Attachment 37263

I am certainly not a mechanical person, and am very impressed with your construction of tools, photography, & perseverance but as noted in my quotation from one of your steps, if there is no difference between the "old BMW bearing and new NSK bearing" what is the point? I think the purpose of your work was to replace that bearing, wasn't it?

[Jankoman]

I am certainly not a mechanical person, and am very impressed with your construction of tools, photography, & perseverance but as noted in my quotation from one of your steps, if there is no difference between the "old BMW bearing and new NSK bearing" what is the point? I think the purpose of your work was to replace that bearing, wasn't it?

I understand. From a dimensional standpoint there were no differences. The outside diameter (OD), the inside diameter (ID) and the thickness were the same. The BMW bearing was bad: the roller balls sealed between the two races were not smooth and there was play between the races. Again, someone might ask if there are any dimensional differences between the two manufacturer's, and there were none. Had I bought a replacement bearing from a BMW dealer, the dimensions would not be of concern. But, because I bought an aftermarket bearing, I would want to know if the aftermarket bearing is the same as the BMW bearing. And it was, down to a thousandth of an inch. The only difference, one might argue, is the quality. Time will tell, but my guess is that the NSK is of better quality.

[Jankoman]

Another method that can be used to pull the flange is to use a harmonic balancer puller attached to a slide hammer. Mine came as part of a cheap ($12) slide hammer kit. It attached to the flange using three of the wheel lug screws. As you noted it doesn't take much to pull the flange once it is heated. A few gentle taps with the slide hammer did the trick.

Agreed! I was expecting to have to apply alot of force to slide flange off. However, the heat was key. After about 10 minutes I could start to hear the flange expanding then off she slid a couple of minutes later. Sliding it back on went even smoother: I had wrapped the flange in foil and put in oven at 200 degrees for about a 1/2 hour, she dropped right back on!

[bogthebasher]

Impressive write-up and pictures. Takes some (much) of the mystery out of the 'hidden' parts of the drive train. Even if I never do this repair on one of our RTs it is good to know what the mechanic is doing should there be any issue with the repair, cost, or parts required. Information like this is very helpful. Thanks.