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Thread: Haynes / Cylmer Discrepency - Klassic 2 Valve K's

  1. #1
    RK Ryder
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    Haynes / Cylmer Discrepency - Klassic 2 Valve K's

    While looking at both manuals today for torque of the oil drain plug, the Haynes states 32 Nm whereas the Clymers says 20 Nm. That's quite a difference. One must be incorrect. Does anyone know the correct torque for the oil drain bolt?

    As well, are they other inaccurate torque values in either manual?
    Last edited by deilenberger; 01-23-2013 at 04:31 AM.
    Paul
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul_F View Post
    While looking at both manuals today for torque of the oil drain plug, the Haynes states 32 Nm whereas the Clymers says 20 Nm. That's quite a difference. One must be incorrect. Does anyone know the correct torque for the oil drain bolt?

    As well, are they other inaccurate torque values in either manual?
    The K11 Repair Manual (BMW) calls for 18Nm.

  3. #3
    3 Red Bricks
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    My 8/88 printing of the factory K-bike manual says 32 Nm. Some of my aftermarket manuals say 20 Nm.

    That being said, the worst that can happen if you under tighten it, is pretty much nothing. If you overtighten the steel plug into the aluminum sump, you could strip the threads out of the sump. The more times the plug goes in and out, the weaker the aluminum threads could become especially at a higher torque.

    I usually don't remove the engine drain plug. I find it's easier and cleaner to drain the oil through the filter cover, especially when the oil is hot. Remove the two furthest away cover bolts. Then SLOWLY loosen the closest bolt to control the flow of the oil into the drain pan. No oil on hands, no burnt fingers, no dropped drain plug into the drain pan, no need for a new crush washer, (no need to know the drain plug torque)



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    Slipster Slipster's Avatar
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    Nice technique Lee!
    Expect The Unexpected

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    RK Ryder
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98lee View Post
    My 8/88 printing of the factory K-bike manual says 32 Nm. Some of my aftermarket manuals say 20 Nm.

    I usually don't remove the engine drain plug. I find it's easier and cleaner to drain the oil through the filter cover, especially when the oil is hot. Remove the two furthest away cover bolts. Then SLOWLY loosen the closest bolt to control the flow of the oil into the drain pan. No oil on hands, no burnt fingers, no dropped drain plug into the drain pan, no need for a new crush washer, (no need to know the drain plug torque)
    Thank you. I'll have to try that method with the next oil change.
    Paul
    Retired and riding my RTs, the '87 K100 & the '98 R1100 !
    Treasurer of the Forest City Motorrad Club #159
    Knights of the Roundel #333

  6. #6
    A bozo on the bus deilenberger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul_F View Post
    While looking at both manuals today for torque of the oil drain plug, the Haynes states 32 Nm whereas the Clymers says 20 Nm. That's quite a difference. One must be incorrect. Does anyone know the correct torque for the oil drain bolt?

    As well, are they other inaccurate torque values in either manual?
    Dear Paul,

    Please read: http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?46057

    There are several different K bike manuals available from these vendors depending on the year of the bike (and model)..

    http://www.amazon.com/B-M-W-K-1985-1.../dp/0892876484 - Klassic K's ('85-95 model years)
    http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Prod.../370-0501.aspx - GT and LT models (1995-2010 models)
    http://www.haynes.com/products/productID/140 - 2 Valve K's (Klassik K's, '83-'96)

    Knowing which manual you're referring to would make it likely someone might open the thread and have some useful info to impart.

    I'll change the thread title a bit to make this clear.

    BTW - I used Lee's method for years on both my Klassic K's. Never had to worry about a new crush ring, as the new filter came with a new O ring for the filter cover.

    Best,
    Don Eilenberger http://www.eilenberger.net
    Spring Lk Heights NJ NJ Shore BMW Riders New Sweden BMW Riders
    '07 R1200R (current ride) and some bimmers.. and a Porsche

  7. #7
    RK Ryder
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    Quote Originally Posted by deilenberger View Post
    Dear Paul,

    Please read: http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?46057

    There are several different K bike manuals available from these vendors depending on the year of the bike (and model)..

    http://www.amazon.com/B-M-W-K-1985-1.../dp/0892876484 - Klassic K's ('85-95 model years)
    http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Prod.../370-0501.aspx - GT and LT models (1995-2010 models)
    http://www.haynes.com/products/productID/140 - 2 Valve K's (Klassik K's, '83-'96)

    Knowing which manual you're referring to would make it likely someone might open the thread and have some useful info to impart.

    I'll change the thread title a bit to make this clear.

    BTW - I used Lee's method for years on both my Klassic K's. Never had to worry about a new crush ring, as the new filter came with a new O ring for the filter cover.

    Best,
    Thanks Don.

    I am referring to the Clymers ('85-97) and Haynes ('85-'96) manuals for my classic '87 K. I'll add more information with questions in the future.

    Thanks!

    Paul
    Last edited by Paul_F; 01-23-2013 at 05:00 PM.
    Paul
    Retired and riding my RTs, the '87 K100 & the '98 R1100 !
    Treasurer of the Forest City Motorrad Club #159
    Knights of the Roundel #333

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    Safe side: Don't overtighten

    The #1 problem with drain plugs in any form of vehicle is people tend to overtighten. Nobody want his/hers to fall out our leak!

    However, there is a stiff price to pay if repeated over-tightening takes place: stripping the threads!

    Also, NOT draining through the drain plug hole prevents you from cleaning off the magnet that is on most of them embedded in the plug.

    Often, specs from manufacturer are usually on their best interest safe side which is to make sure that it can't come out, so their specs may be really to tight for long term usage.

    The best is to have it just tight enough that it won't leak, or back out from vibration or something else, but not tight enough to do any damage to threads.

    Go with lightest torque,l and then CHECK it REGULARLY to make sure it hasn't changed! Get the best of both world.

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    I always just remove the cover to change oil and reach in with a finger to check for junk on the plug. Maybe the trick thing would be to epoxy a magnet to the filter cover.
    Jeff
    93 K1100LT
    03 K1200GT

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