I believe that welding supply shops sell paint crayons in various colors. They should do a good job.
I believe that welding supply shops sell paint crayons in various colors. They should do a good job.
Craft stores and Office supply stores have paint pens.
Don
1975 R90/6, 1980 and 1982 R65, !959 TR3A Triumph Car
When repainting, I always use paint. Appliance white spray paint comes to mind when the auto parts store does not have what I want. It sticks to metal well, but a primer helps.
A small paint brush is needed. If you don't have a small paint brush (or several), they are nice to have around. In a pinch, tearing a paper match out of a match book and using the torn end works as a brush. Good luck!
Stan
AH# 13238
Thanks again, guys - white paint it is. Getting my ducks in a row to do this job right.
Ken Tuvman
Excelsior, MN
K75s, R65LS, R60/5
Turn the alternator bolt to the right as in righty tighty. Make sure you disconnect the Negative battery cable before removing the front cover. Always remove the spark plugs before turning the alternator bolt. I know you already know this but a reminder never hurts.
Steve
Hi Gang,
Made good progress today - my buddy came by and helped me pull the tranny. I received my tools today from Northwoods Airheads and a couple Q's about pulling clutch.
1. Do I need to mark the clutch parts with my paint pen so I put it back the same way it comes out?
2. When I use the (3) bolts to compress the springs, what is the procedure for removing the clutch - It seems the long bolts take the pressure away from the springs and then after removing the remaining (3) bolts, I slowly remove each long bolt so the clutch doesn't spring out suddenly.
Am I on the right track here?
Ken Tuvman
Excelsior, MN
K75s, R65LS, R60/5
Can't hurt!
You should also have three nuts. The nuts are up against the clutch and the bolts are threaded in minimally. Hold the bolts and loosen the nuts--it's probably a two wrench job. Go a turn on one, then a turn on the next, and a turn on the third releasing pressure gradually. If you can get the long bolts all the way in, they are probably not long enough and there will still be a buncha pressure on the spring when the bolt runs out.Originally Posted by Kentuvman
and yes, unless you are replacing clutch parts, mark them so they go back together the same as they came out. keeps things balanced.
Ride Safe, Ride Lots
Making progress here . . . removed the clutch and marked everything.
Put flywheel at OT, blocked it up front & removed (5) bolts.
Flywheel doesn't want to come off with my hands.
What's best / safest way to remove it?
Thanks!
Ken Tuvman
Excelsior, MN
K75s, R65LS, R60/5
Heat the center and use some penetrant. That's where I'd start.
Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
'78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!
Thanks, Kurt
I've got a can of PB Blaster - that's a good suggestion.
I read another post and I think I'm going to find a longer brake metal bar, drill 2 holes and use the long bolts (the ones used to take pressure off the clutch) I'll heat & then pull the center of the bar spanning the flywheel. I have a breaker bar I could put under the bar and get more leverage pulling from the center of the flywheel.
If that doesn't work, will there be any damage gently using a couple small pry bars to work around the flywheel?
Ken Tuvman
Excelsior, MN
K75s, R65LS, R60/5
Interesting . . . the Haynes book has a blueprint on how to make a flywheel extracting tool - so I guess I may have a solution now for getting some purchase on removing the flywheel. More news to come.
Last edited by kentuvman; 01-28-2013 at 01:24 AM. Reason: add pic
Ken Tuvman
Excelsior, MN
K75s, R65LS, R60/5
Flywheel is off.
It was a combination of PB Blaster, a small ball peen hammer, and the bar on previous post.
Now I can move forward to clean the bell housing, R&R the main seal and change the O Ring - there is some oil around the bottom of the oil pump cover.
That's all for now - thanks for all your help!
Ken Tuvman
Excelsior, MN
K75s, R65LS, R60/5
This is a 1983 R80ST with the clutch bolts being removed, using the same tool.... works a charm!
IMG_2841-L.jpg
bpeckm
Middletown RI
1983 R80ST "modified"
I just finished the same service on my 1972 R75/5. Here are a few pictures of my thread:
http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthre...ywheel-removal
It is a fun project and having most or all of the proper tools makes it even more fun.
I also serviced the swing arm bearings figuring, one, the swing arm is off and two, just think how that 40 year old grease is doing it's job...it's not.
Kurt
1977 R100/7 1972 R75/5
1974 R90/6
www.airheadrentals.com
"Objects in the mirror appear to be losing" unk