Results 1 to 15 of 31

Thread: '73 R60/5 Blocking Crankshaft Technique

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Registered User kentuvman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    842

    '73 R60/5 Blocking Crankshaft Technique

    Hi Gang,

    I was able to get my bike into the porch - now able to do some work during the MN winter!

    Planning to pull the transmission and do a spline lube, as no baseline as when this was last done. While I'm doing that, I want to pull the clutch and check to see if it's still in spec. In the June 2010 issue of ON magazine, Matthew Parkhouse writes about this subject: on removing the clutch he says "with the earlier style, you're fighting a compressed spring. Remove every other bolt and place some sort of compression set up in their place." In the picture, he's showing a steel bar with a couple faucet handles on it used to compress the clutch plate.
    Is this what I'm going to need to do and if so, do I need to make a tool like that or where can I find one?

    Since I'll be pulling the clutch, I want to check the main seal and replace it if it's not in top shape. I'll also replace the oil pump "O" ring, then re-torque of the oil pump cover.

    In case the main seal is bad - I read 2 ways t block the crankshaft - Matthew Parkhouse writes "I blocked the crank by replacing the alternatior bolt with a different bolt that stood proud about 1/2 inch. Then I replaced the front cover and bolted it down. This eliminated any possibility that the crankshaft would move forward when the flywheel came off."
    Oak uses a different technique: "the way to do it is take a piece of wood like a strong 2x2 @3 feet long. Remove the front engine cover. Rest the wood at the FRONT of the alternator rotor. Then securely lash the wood to each cylinder using about 6 bungee cords around each cylinder and wood. With the wood pressing agains the alternator rotor the crankshaft cannot move forward."

    Interested in your experience in doing this service and how you did it. If anyone has the tool used to R&R main seal available for loan or sale, let me know - I won't know if I need it until I get the flywheel pulled. This may be several weeks off.

    Interested to also know what bolts I should replace - ie. driveshaft & bolts that hold the clutch plate.

    Thanks much!
    Ken Tuvman
    Excelsior, MN
    K75s, R65LS, R60/5

  2. #2
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    12,447
    Ken -

    I don't specifically recall Matt's picture, but I suspect the steel bar is used to keep the crankshaft from turning while you wrench off the clutch pack bolts. I found a simple bar to hook onto one of the transmission mount bolts and the other end goes into one of the empty clutch bolts.

    To relieve the spring pressure on the clutch, you need 3 long (~70mm) bolts of the same pitch along with a nut and washer. You remove every other clutch pack both and then run these long bolts in to the holes. Run the nuts and washers down to finger tight against the clutch pack. Then remove the other three original clutch bolts. Now with an open end wrench, back off the nuts evenly on the three long bolts. Eventually, the spring pressure will be relieve and you can the take everything apart.

    Snowbum also shows a tool to block the crank. Cycleworks and Northwood Tools also sell such a tool.
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  3. #3
    advrider.com
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    3,192
    Kurts reply is accurate for the clutch removal.

    To block the crankshaft, I use a style more like Parkhouses.. I use a piece of wood duct-taped to the end of the rotor, sandwiched under the front cover. Oaks method just seems too bulky.

  4. #4
    Registered User melville's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Behind the Redwood Curtain
    Posts
    111
    I was able to remove clutch on my /6 with 45mm bolts. YMMV. Check the thread on the clutch bolts--mine were M8 X 1, a finer thread than standard M8.

  5. #5
    shandeland DHANDELAND's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    48
    Ken,
    I see you live in Excelsior. We have a good bunch of Airheads here in the area. Our Airmarshall Curt lives near 101 and 7. We are planning a tech day in May. I ride a 1875 R60/6 and a 1984 R80RT. You can get the bolts you need to remove the clutch plates at Ace Hardware. I use a bolt similar to the tool Northwoods sells to block the crank. You could use a 2x4 and strap it to the frame pulling back against the crank.
    Let me know if you are interested meeting up with the local Airhead group and I can give you some contact information.
    Steve

  6. #6
    bpeckm bpeckm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Middletown RI
    Posts
    371
    I wrote up a thread about some work I did on my /6, showing pictures etc. Take a look at this, it may help...

    Re: blocking the crank: I found it easiest to "shim" with a piece of wood taped to the front of the alternator, then re-install the front cover so that it snugs up directly to the "shim".... Northwoods has a simple nylon bolt that you put into the alternator rotor which does the same thing. The key is to use the cover as the "strength" to keep the crank from sliding forward. This lets you put some serious pressure on the crank-end in order to prise out the old seal... pics in the thread above... just look through. Then do it!

    bpeckm
    Middletown RI
    1983 R80ST "modified"

  7. #7
    Registered User kentuvman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    842
    Quote Originally Posted by SHANDELAND View Post
    Ken,
    I see you live in Excelsior. We have a good bunch of Airheads here in the area. Our Airmarshall Curt lives near 101 and 7. We are planning a tech day in May. I ride a 1875 R60/6 and a 1984 R80RT. You can get the bolts you need to remove the clutch plates at Ace Hardware. I use a bolt similar to the tool Northwoods sells to block the crank. You could use a 2x4 and strap it to the frame pulling back against the crank.
    Let me know if you are interested meeting up with the local Airhead group and I can give you some contact information.
    Steve
    Funny how the universe works! I spoke with Curt last night on the phone and he told me about the tech day in May - looking forward to it! - he'll be loaning me the tool to install the new main seal. And based on Kurt's suggestion (moderator of this group), I ordered some tools this morning from Jeff at Northwoods in WI - the little plastic blocking bolt to block the crank, a flat bar to hold the flywheel, and the (3) bolts that I could have bought at Ace hardware but was feeling lazy when it was minus 30 degrees outside! I also ordered a new rear main seal and the "O" ring.

    I almost flipped when I called the local dealer to order the new bolts for the flywheel and oil pump cover (Northwoods doesn't sell them) Would you believe BMW is charging $6 EACH for these bolts? (I need 5 bolts) Hucky's sells them for less but when I factored in freight and the 10% MOA discount the dealer gives me, it's somewhat of a wash. I know it's good to get BMW OEM parts but come on, $6 for a little bolt?

    I plan to take pictures and document the work I do. I've read a nice document from Jeff's Northwoods website and I know to set engine at OT (top dead center) and I've got a paint marker to make sure the flywheel goes on the same way it comes off.

    Will report back once I get the job completed. And thanks, guys for all you great suggestions above!
    Ken Tuvman
    Excelsior, MN
    K75s, R65LS, R60/5

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •