R100GS exhaust nut

[88bmwjeff]

Just looking for some advice but will probably just use common sense and feel when it comes down to it of course. I have lots of anti seize and should probably use some of it on these nuts sooner than later!

The best advice and common sense is that the nuts are far cheaper to replace than restoring the threads. So, give it a try and if the nut don't want to budge, then I'd cut them off. I used a Dremel with two or three cutting wheels. I cut down at the top and bottom. Keep in mind you can't cut 100% through the nut due to the threads, so be careful not to go too far. I then used a flat crowbar with a 90 degree bend and twisted them apart.

[happy wanderer]

Thanks for the advice guys. While I agree it would be cheaper to replace than to repair since that would involve a machine shop these nuts are not exactly cheap either. $32 each at Max BMW. If both bikes got new nuts that is $128 plus tax plus shipping I'd like to avoid paying if not necessary.

I'm going to try my best to get them off even if it takes a while.

[Stan_R80/7]

Thanks for the advice guys. While I agree it would be cheaper to replace than to repair since that would involve a machine shop these nuts are not exactly cheap either. $32 each at Max BMW. If both bikes got new nuts that is $128 plus tax plus shipping I'd like to avoid paying if not necessary.

I'm going to try my best to get them off even if it takes a while.

If the previous owner put anti-seize on the nuts, they should come off without damage. Without anti-seize the nuts will gall and the threads will be damaged when trying to remove them. The likely hood damage occurs during removal is >90% w/out anti-seize . Try motobins (www.motobins.com) for new exhaust nuts. Cut the old off with a dremel - recognizing to not cut all the way through the nut before prying apart. Good luck!

[JIMMYLEE]

I didn't start this thread, but I am intrigued as I have kept up reading through it.

If one is planning to try to remove the exhaust nuts (mine is an R100/7, 1978) should one buy the exhaust nuts beforehand just to have them in case you need to cut off the old ones?

And if so, where is the best (least expensive, but not getting "look-alike" junk) place to purchase them?

Thanks ahead of time!

[arptra]

The old airhead that clean the threads on mine said if you break the nut loose and if it doesn't spin by hand then cut it off and use new nuts. Mine wasn't that hard to remove but I has to use the wrench and the threads off of the nut ended up in the threads of my head.

[donmystic1]

Max BMW just called and they have replaced the damaged thread section on my right exhaust port. ( there was about 3/8 of an inch of threads missing ) . I was glad that I did not have to buy or replace a new head.
Costs plus shipping about $250.00. Cheap if you ask me.

When you reinstall the exhaust nut use "COPPER ANTI SEIZE " Not the silver stuff.

[happy wanderer]

If the previous owner put anti-seize on the nuts, they should come off without damage. Without anti-seize the nuts will gall and the threads will be damaged when trying to remove them. The likely hood damage occurs during removal is >90% w/out anti-seize . Try motobins (www.motobins.com) for new exhaust nuts. Cut the old off with a dremel - recognizing to not cut all the way through the nut before prying apart. Good luck!

Thanks for the Motobins tip Stan. I keep forgetting to check prices there and they always seem to come in much cheaper than MAX which is my quick goto fiche for parts and prices. I like RealOEM too but the MAX site is just such a great easy layout for us lazy types.

9.80 UK pounds is a darn good price for exhaust nuts and shipping from the UK to Canada is not too bad.

[happy wanderer]

Max BMW just called and they have replaced the damaged thread section on my right exhaust port. ( there was about 3/8 of an inch of threads missing ) . I was glad that I did not have to buy or replace a new head.
Costs plus shipping about $250.00. Cheap if you ask me.

When you reinstall the exhaust nut use "COPPER ANTI SEIZE " Not the silver stuff.

Thanks for this tip Donmystic1. I just looked in my supplies cabinet and I have two bottles of anti seize, both of them silver moly paste. Or at least they look like moly past. The jars are gummed up and hard to read I've had them so long.

I will find and buy some of the copper stuff. Did not realize there were two different anti seize compounds out there. I imagine the copper stuff takes the heat better but never have read up on that.

[20774]

Snowbum likes the product "Pure Nickel Special" of the Never-Seez brand...it is good for 2600 degrees. Never-Seez also makes another product. He says that Permatex has a variety that goes to 1600 degrees which he feels is adequate.

I bought Permatex Nickel Anti-Seize...the bottle says it works up to 2400 degrees F. On-line info for Permatex Copper Anti-seize #31163 says it goes to 1800 degrees.

[arptra]

Really,, you should remove the nuts every now and then to re-apply the anti seize anyway.

[GlobalRider]

hello all, does anyone know where I can get a thread chaser for head to clean up the threads for exhaust nut?

When you say "clean them up", do you mean the threads are damaged and you want to run a tap over them, or are they just dirty with build-up.