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Thread: R100GS exhaust nut

  1. #1
    Registered User arptra's Avatar
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    R100GS exhaust nut

    hello all, does anyone know where I can get a thread chaser for head to clean up the threads for exhaust nut?
    Alan,,
    Dallas Texas
    89GS, 08 R1200GSA

  2. #2
    Registered User 88bmwjeff's Avatar
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    I used a metric thread file after I had to cut off an exhaust nut. Then, I used a good nut and some WD40, and that cleaned things up for me real well.
    Jeff in W.C.
    1988 R100 RT (the other woman)
    "I got my motorcycle jacket but I'm walking all the time." Joe Strummer

  3. #3
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    Any specialty tool house could order the metric die. I forgot what the pitch is...probably something like 1.5mm. As for diameter, 52mm sticks in my head.
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  4. #4
    ONE LESS HARLEY 04r1150rs's Avatar
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    S Meyer has them.

    Or the metric thread file if the threads aren't too bad.
    Richard
    2004 R1150RS
    1984 R80 G/S
    2003 Suzuki DRZ 400S

  5. #5
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    McMaster Carr (check out on internet site) has just about everything known to man.

    Also, any supply house that would be a supplier for machine shops, tool & die makers.

    Be sure you know the thread pitch - in metric, it is the dimension from one thread profile to the next. In english, it is threads per inch.

  6. #6
    Registered User arptra's Avatar
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    YEAH, i TRIED MCMASTER THEY DONT HAVE ANYTHING THAT BIG,,
    Alan,,
    Dallas Texas
    89GS, 08 R1200GSA

  7. #7
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    If you don't have a metric thread file- or have not tried one- that would be a good first step. A die can damage the threads if not used correctly. I am not sure if the thread information below is correct for pitch or diameter - that needs to be measured before ordering.

    Victor machinery (victornet.com) has a M52x1.5 die - RDM-52-1.5-F (http://www.victornet.com/subdepartme...Dies/1390.html). The price is $116.80. They also sell metric thread files: http://www.victornet.com/report/Thread-Files/1023.html

    Personally, I would use a thread file. But if buying a die was needed, the die from S Meyer linked in this thread is preferred since it is made for an airhead and is less expensive. Good luck!
    Stan

    AH# 13238

  8. #8
    Registered User arptra's Avatar
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    I have tried them all, I took the fin nut to a machine shop and they said it is 52x2mm and cant find anywhere. The two I have found are in Germany and about a month out. Will take it to Perry's side cars today and he should be able to fix it.
    Alan,,
    Dallas Texas
    89GS, 08 R1200GSA

  9. #9
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    Thread chaser

    Quote Originally Posted by arptra View Post
    I have tried them all, I took the fin nut to a machine shop and they said it is 52x2mm and cant find anywhere. The two I have found are in Germany and about a month out. Will take it to Perry's side cars today and he should be able to fix it.
    If at all possible do not use a file or a regular die, try to find a thead chaser/repair die, it will not remove material like a thread die but will roll the thread back into shape.

  10. #10
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    With appropriate cuts across the threads of an exhaust nut, it can be used as a thread chaser in a pinch...maybe for light touch up.
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  11. #11
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    McMaster does in fact have thread files. However, I think that they have the nomenclature incorrect.

    They have listed metric thread files a "threads per millimeter" however it SHOULD be "mm dimension per thread to thread." This is most common error people make when referring to metric bolts and nuts.

    For example: a 6 x 1.25 threads on a bolt means that the bolt diameter is 6mm and the thread is 1.25 mm from thread to thread. As the "pitch" dimension gets larger, the threads are more coarse.

    Contrast that with the English way of thinking, which goes on a per-inch basis: for example a 1/4-20 means the bolt is 1/4" in diameter and has 20 threads per inch. Hence, the higher the thread number means the finer the threads. A 1/4-28 has a finer thread. being that there are more threads in the inch of distance.

    Finally, a "thread" file does not designate diameter (as do taps and dies) because it must match the thread profile and is used like a file on the threads to clean them up.

    Hope this helps.

    Also, another alternative is to buy a small three cornered file. This would make the file a 60 degree angles which matches most thread profiles - whether metric or English. Just be careful not to file too much away. Take your time, and you can get the threads to clean up to almost like new.

    Then, use copper-based anti-seize compound regularly.

  12. #12
    ONE LESS HARLEY 04r1150rs's Avatar
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    click on my S meyer link on post 4. The metric thread file will work if the threads aren't to bad.
    Richard
    2004 R1150RS
    1984 R80 G/S
    2003 Suzuki DRZ 400S

  13. #13
    Donmystic1
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    Exhaust Threads

    I have severely damaged threads on my right head on a 1977 R75/7.

    I talked to Max BMW and they said that this is a common problem and that their in-house machine shop routinely welds and recuts the threads. So I took it to them yesterday. They thought that it would take a couple of hours to fix. We will see.

  14. #14
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    OK, I'm worried now...

    I have two airheads and have never had to remove the exhaust nuts yet but this thread and others like it have me concerned that I should do so as a preventative step. I know the RS nuts have not been touche in at least four years and the G/S is new to me as of last year but with rusty pipes and collector box I feel quite sure they have not been touched in a very long time either. I have the required tool.

    So what's the best way to go about it to not end up with damaged threads?

    - heat the nut up really well before attempting to move it?
    - soak the threads as well as possible with penetrating oil for a day or two first? Tough to do this properly on a horizontal nut...
    - how hard should you have to torque on the nut before it spins off?

    Just looking for some advice but will probably just use common sense and feel when it comes down to it of course. I have lots of anti seize and should probably use some of it on these nuts sooner than later!
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  15. #15
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    On my Topend thread, I knew that I needed to just cut them off from the git-go...they had not been off in over 20 years and the anti-seize was gone. Good choice on my part.

    If I wanted to take a shot at it, here's what I'd do:

    - use the best penetrant you have...Kroil or the 50-50 mix of acetone and ATF
    - heat the fins some and as it cools, introduce the penetrant...hopefully the cooling will draw it deep inside
    - do this once or twice a day for at least a week
    - time is your best friend here
    - try to turn the exhaust nut off...get it to move maybe even just a little bit...
    - then I'd try another 2-3 days of penetrant...the movement has opened up new paths for the liquid
    - when finally ready, try turning the nut off
    - you've heard the drill...if it moves some and then stops moving again, then you're at the point where thread damage maybe have started and time to cut the nuts off
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

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