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Thread: New member with an oil change question...

  1. #16
    . AntonLargiader's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff488 View Post
    All the torx screws on my '04 RT are T15.
    That's actually T25 for the fairing screws, (unless they've been changed).

    These days I need Torx sizes 20, 25, 30, 40, 45, 50 and occasionally 55! Might be a 15 in there somewhere, too. Very few allens on the new bikes.
    Anton Largiader 72724
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  2. #17
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AntonLargiader View Post
    Unless you wrote the fiche, it isn't your knowledge. It's just the fiche. Like Wikipedia, or what some dude said on some forum; it's what some other source says (and you don't know if it's right or wrong) but it's not your actual knowledge. Nothing wrong with citing it, but if you at least say, "According to XXX, this is like this" then people won't think you are personally attesting to its veracity.

    "This part does not belong on this bike" - incorrect
    "The fiche does not show this part on this bike" - true (but meaningless).
    I think he gets it.
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    It's all about the details.

  3. #18
    Alps Adventurer GlobalRider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharlieAllnutt View Post
    They said these engines use a lot of oil during break-in period. I knew that, but that much??
    Having owned both a 2003 and 2004 R1150 GS Adventure, at the same time, the time for a full break-in varied from motorcycle to motorcycle. The 2003 took about 15K kilometers for oil consumption to nearly cease; the 2004 was almost immediate. Unfortunately, the latter was written off by a cell phone yapping inbred.


    Quote Originally Posted by CharlieAllnutt View Post
    Anyway, I replaced the filter and added 3.75L (.9909 gal) and now the sight glass is full of oil top-to-bottom with a cold engine.
    I remember doing exactly that and that is where the oil level was after having circulated the oil once and letting the engine cool. There is quite a difference between the cold and hot engine oil level indications.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by dano View Post
    If it's [the oil] covering the entire sight glass....drain some out.
    I'm currently in this situation. I put in the amount recommended at a full change and the level is a tad high. What's the best way to get a little bit out? Were it a car I'd slide a thin hose down the dipstick tube into the pan and suck it out with a syringe. No dipstick tube on these babies. The only thing I can think of is loosening the bolt and letting some oil drain out around it, then starting it again. Shouldn't be hard, just messy. Just wondering if anyone has a better method. Is there a crankcase vent somewhere that could serve this purpose?

    'The new guy'

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 190885 View Post
    I'm currently in this situation. I put in the amount recommended at a full change and the level is a tad high. What's the best way to get a little bit out? Were it a car I'd slide a thin hose down the dipstick tube into the pan and suck it out with a syringe. No dipstick tube on these babies. The only thing I can think of is loosening the bolt and letting some oil drain out around it, then starting it again. Shouldn't be hard, just messy. Just wondering if anyone has a better method. Is there a crankcase vent somewhere that could serve this purpose?

    'The new guy'
    If you know for a fact it's just a tad just forget about it.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by billy walker View Post
    If you know for a fact it's just a tad just forget about it.
    My Clymers said 4 quarts at an oil change with filter. I got lazy and just poured in four quarts instead of pouring in three and being more careful with the fourth. Yeah, I know. So I'm guessing it's just a tad..

  7. #22
    . AntonLargiader's Avatar
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    If it's in the circle, just leave it. If it's over you can probably snake a tube down along a cam chain if you remove a valve cover. I'd try the right side, and put the bike on the side stand. Or just wear a glove and try to let some out the drain plug.

    A few different breather systems were used on the 1100 motors and some may have components that you could use for this, but I don't think any of them are easy enough to access that its a good solution.
    Anton Largiader 72724
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  8. #23
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    I'll just drain it and pour it back in. I'll use my wife's Dutch oven from the kitchen so I can be sure it is clean.

  9. #24
    Alps Adventurer GlobalRider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 190885 View Post
    My Clymers said 4 quarts at an oil change with filter.
    4 US quarts = 3.785 liters. Spot on if you fully drained your engine.

  10. #25
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    Well then I guess we've just defined "tad". Even ran half a can of Seafoam through it before I drained the crankcase, then got the motor nice and warm. Should have been pretty well drained. Should be okay! Thanks for the info.

    First use of the forum since becoming a member!

    John

  11. #26
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 190885 View Post
    I'm currently in this situation. I put in the amount recommended at a full change and the level is a tad high. What's the best way to get a little bit out? Were it a car I'd slide a thin hose down the dipstick tube into the pan and suck it out with a syringe. No dipstick tube on these babies. The only thing I can think of is loosening the bolt and letting some oil drain out around it, then starting it again. Shouldn't be hard, just messy.
    Have you started the engine yet? When you put in "the amount recommended", did you fill the new oil filter with oil? If you didn't, then there is extra oil in the pan that has to get over to the filter, so the level will drop. When I do my fill, I add 3.5 liters and hold the half liter for adding later. I generally add about 1/2 to 3/4 of a liter during the 6,000 mile oil cycle - bike has 104k.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

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