Results 1 to 15 of 26

Thread: New member with an oil change question...

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    17

    New member with an oil change question...

    The scenario: A 2004 R1150RT, recently purchased new, had the 600-mile maintenance and currently has 4150 miles total. This morning it showed oil about halfway up the sight glass while on the sidestand with a cold engine.
    Curious about the actual amount of oil in the engine, I drained it and only got approx. two liters or less. I called the dealer to ask if this wasn't a bit skimpy and could the engine "retain" oil in the cooler or anywhere else. Or could it have used that much oil since the 600-mile maintenance? They said these engines use a lot of oil during break-in period. I knew that, but that much??
    Anyway, I replaced the filter and added 3.75L (.9909 gal) and now the sight glass is full of oil top-to-bottom with a cold engine. The dealer recommended draining about one liter, but I don't know about that. The 3.75L is what the manual says.
    Any thoughts.....anyone.....anyone??

  2. #2
    Tells it like it is......
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    467
    Go out and ride it, until it's good and hot. Return home, let it rest on the side-stand for about 10 minutes or so.

    Then....put it up on it's center-stand for about 30 minutes, then check the oil level. As long as the oil level is in or about the center of the site glass, you're good to go. If it's covering the entire sight glass....drain some out. If it's near the bottom or you can't see any oil at all....add some til you can see it.

    After doing this procedure several times, you'll get a "feel" for how to do it.

  3. #3
    Registered User
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    764
    When you drain the oil you may not always get all of it out. Therefore, I use 3.5 qts as a starting point when I change the oil. Then I go for a ride to get it warmed up. I park it on the side stand for at least ten minutes before putting it on the center stand. If the oil is near the dot, I stop. Below that I add a few ounces. From the bottom of the circle to the top is only about 16 ounces.
    Frank G.
    Hattiesburg, Mississippi
    2004 R1150RT

  4. #4
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Paramus, NJ
    Posts
    34

    Peter

    Can anyone tell me what kind of screws or bolts are holding the lower cowl on my 2004 R1150RT?
    I have to remove the cowl to get at the oil drain plug.

  5. #5
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Northern Front Range, CO
    Posts
    6,438
    Quote Originally Posted by 164809 View Post
    Can anyone tell me what kind of screws or bolts are holding the lower cowl on my 2004 R1150RT?
    I have to remove the cowl to get at the oil drain plug.
    amazing. you must have done a ton of back-reading to tag onto a barely related 8 year old thread to ask your screws question.

    wouldn't it have been easier to just go ahead and start a new thread? or, try fitting an allen head to one of the screws you can access easily, and then use that for the bottom ones? (external sizing is consistent for all body panel screws, but screw length does vary- so be sure to make note of which screw came from what location; using a piece of cardboard that mimics the screw positions is a good way to do that.
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

  6. #6
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Paramus, NJ
    Posts
    34

    Pter

    Quote Originally Posted by bikerfish1100 View Post
    amazing. you must have done a ton of back-reading to tag onto a barely related 8 year old thread to ask your screws question.

    wouldn't it have been easier to just go ahead and start a new thread? or, try fitting an allen head to one of the screws you can access easily, and then use that for the bottom ones? (external sizing is consistent for all body panel screws, but screw length does vary- so be sure to make note of which screw came from what location; using a piece of cardboard that mimics the screw positions is a good way to do that.
    The site has been giving me trouble. couldn't star a new thread. sorry about that.
    Can't even get the search box.

    Peter

  7. #7
    RK Ryder
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    London, Ontario
    Posts
    2,045
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Frank View Post
    When you drain the oil you may not always get all of it out. Therefore, I use 3.5 qts as a starting point when I change the oil. Then I go for a ride to get it warmed up. I park it on the side stand for at least ten minutes before putting it on the center stand. If the oil is near the dot, I stop. Below that I add a few ounces. From the bottom of the circle to the top is only about 16 ounces.
    With my R1100RT, I start with 3.25 litres, even though I often leave the bike draining the final drips for hours before refilling. After riding it, then I'll add more if needed. For me, 3.25 litres is about right.

    Quote Originally Posted by 164809 View Post
    Can anyone tell me what kind of screws or bolts are holding the lower cowl on my 2004 R1150RT?
    I have to remove the cowl to get at the oil drain plug.
    If my memory is correct, it is a #3 allen key.
    Paul
    Retired and riding my RTs, the '87 K100 & the '98 R1100 !
    Treasurer of the Forest City Motorrad Club #159
    Knights of the Roundel #333

  8. #8
    Registered User
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by dano View Post
    If it's [the oil] covering the entire sight glass....drain some out.
    I'm currently in this situation. I put in the amount recommended at a full change and the level is a tad high. What's the best way to get a little bit out? Were it a car I'd slide a thin hose down the dipstick tube into the pan and suck it out with a syringe. No dipstick tube on these babies. The only thing I can think of is loosening the bolt and letting some oil drain out around it, then starting it again. Shouldn't be hard, just messy. Just wondering if anyone has a better method. Is there a crankcase vent somewhere that could serve this purpose?

    'The new guy'

  9. #9
    BMW Rider
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    750
    Quote Originally Posted by 190885 View Post
    I'm currently in this situation. I put in the amount recommended at a full change and the level is a tad high. What's the best way to get a little bit out? Were it a car I'd slide a thin hose down the dipstick tube into the pan and suck it out with a syringe. No dipstick tube on these babies. The only thing I can think of is loosening the bolt and letting some oil drain out around it, then starting it again. Shouldn't be hard, just messy. Just wondering if anyone has a better method. Is there a crankcase vent somewhere that could serve this purpose?

    'The new guy'
    If you know for a fact it's just a tad just forget about it.

  10. #10
    Registered User
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    8
    Quote Originally Posted by billy walker View Post
    If you know for a fact it's just a tad just forget about it.
    My Clymers said 4 quarts at an oil change with filter. I got lazy and just poured in four quarts instead of pouring in three and being more careful with the fourth. Yeah, I know. So I'm guessing it's just a tad..

  11. #11
    . AntonLargiader's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Charlottesville, VA
    Posts
    1,377
    If it's in the circle, just leave it. If it's over you can probably snake a tube down along a cam chain if you remove a valve cover. I'd try the right side, and put the bike on the side stand. Or just wear a glove and try to let some out the drain plug.

    A few different breather systems were used on the 1100 motors and some may have components that you could use for this, but I don't think any of them are easy enough to access that its a good solution.
    Anton Largiader 72724
    largiader.com bmwra.org

  12. #12
    Alps Adventurer GlobalRider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Canada and the Alps
    Posts
    3,626
    Quote Originally Posted by 190885 View Post
    My Clymers said 4 quarts at an oil change with filter.
    4 US quarts = 3.785 liters. Spot on if you fully drained your engine.

  13. #13
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Trinity, NC
    Posts
    323
    Quote Originally Posted by 190885 View Post
    I'm currently in this situation. I put in the amount recommended at a full change and the level is a tad high. What's the best way to get a little bit out? Were it a car I'd slide a thin hose down the dipstick tube into the pan and suck it out with a syringe. No dipstick tube on these babies. The only thing I can think of is loosening the bolt and letting some oil drain out around it, then starting it again. Shouldn't be hard, just messy.
    Have you started the engine yet? When you put in "the amount recommended", did you fill the new oil filter with oil? If you didn't, then there is extra oil in the pan that has to get over to the filter, so the level will drop. When I do my fill, I add 3.5 liters and hold the half liter for adding later. I generally add about 1/2 to 3/4 of a liter during the 6,000 mile oil cycle - bike has 104k.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  14. #14
    Alps Adventurer GlobalRider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Canada and the Alps
    Posts
    3,626
    Quote Originally Posted by CharlieAllnutt View Post
    They said these engines use a lot of oil during break-in period. I knew that, but that much??
    Having owned both a 2003 and 2004 R1150 GS Adventure, at the same time, the time for a full break-in varied from motorcycle to motorcycle. The 2003 took about 15K kilometers for oil consumption to nearly cease; the 2004 was almost immediate. Unfortunately, the latter was written off by a cell phone yapping inbred.


    Quote Originally Posted by CharlieAllnutt View Post
    Anyway, I replaced the filter and added 3.75L (.9909 gal) and now the sight glass is full of oil top-to-bottom with a cold engine.
    I remember doing exactly that and that is where the oil level was after having circulated the oil once and letting the engine cool. There is quite a difference between the cold and hot engine oil level indications.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •