fuel line quick disconnect

[scootrp125x]

Other spares that I carry along with those O-rings in a small 60 ml Nalgene jar is an oil level sight glass and an oil filler cap.

I love carrying spares, it should guarantee never having to use them and I will have one for someone else if they need it. I have a spare oil sight glass and a spare valve for my tire. I also keep my original BMW fuel line quick disconnects in case of an emergency for myself or other riders. I will add o rings to the spares inventory.

[Lee]

I also keep my original BMW fuel line quick disconnects in case of an emergency for myself or other riders.

I used one of my male OEM QDs to make an easy and fast way to drain our tanks.
I don't know where the QDs are on a boxer, but on our K1200RSs, this setup worked good for draining the tank.

[12886]

www.beemerboneyard.com they got em and will give advice if needed

[Roger 04 RT]

I used one of my female OEM QDs to make an easy and fast way to drain our tanks.
I don't know where the QDs are on a boxer, but on our K1200RSs, this setup worked good for draining the tank.

On the R1150RT, a couple feet of hose attached to a female QD, connected to the return line coming from the regulator back to the tank makes a superb diagnostic tool.

When setup that way, with the bike running at idle, you should get about 2 quarts per 60 seconds. If you do, the pump, filter and in-tank hoses are highly likely to be working as designed. Much more than that and the fuel pressure regulator might be open, much less than 2 quarts and the pump, filter or hoses would be suspect.

[scootrp125x]

I used one of my female OEM QDs to make an easy and fast way to drain our tanks.
I don't know where the QDs are on a boxer, but on our K1200RSs, this setup worked good for draining the tank.

Roger will this work on our bikes? I like that idea for draining the tank.

[Roger 04 RT]

Roger will this work on our bikes? I like that idea for draining the tank.

On my 04RT, if you want to drain with the same hose you used for return volume measurement you could build the hose with a female QD. To drain the tank you'd have to jumper the fuel pump relay which would then pump the tank down at about a gallon every two minutes that hose could connect to either the return from the fuel distributor or the high pressure output from the tank. Or you could make up a second hose with the male QD and let gravity do the work by connecting to the tank return line.

I think it's the same way on all R1150RTs.

[PGlaves]

In any case, you should always have at least three spare O-rings in a tiny zip-lock back within your tool kit.
Everything fails in time. Most of these premature failures were likely due to ham fisted owners forcing the quick-disconnect halves together and stressing them. I've read my share of threads will lots of curse words within them when doing so. They are an easy slip together set of items when using new O-rings.

Sometimes. But there is a definite problem with the material (plastic) used. It gets (is) brittle and cracks or crumbles. I've seen them a few years old that could be crumbled between a thumb and forefinger. Anybody is free to trust them if they choose but after a couple of those crumble issues I chose not to trust them. I don't even like the female ends but they do seem to be better than the skinny little male ends.

[Lee]

My mistake. I checked the drain hose I made, and I used the plastic male quick disconnect.
I went back and corrected my original post.

BTW, gravity flow will drain the tank pretty fast when you have the gas cap open.

[Lee]

I don't even like the female ends but they do seem to be better than the skinny little male ends.

The male end is the one that normally fails, but I replaced both on our K1200RSs.
On our K1300Ss I only replaced the male end. There has been some cracking problems around the fuel pump flange where the female end screws in, and thought it best not to mess with that area.

[Roger 04 RT]

If you replace the plastic ones with metal, save the plastic QDs for making up drain hoses and attaching to fuel pressure gauges.

[happy wanderer]

In any case, you should always have at least three spare O-rings in a tiny zip-lock back within your tool kit.
Everything fails in time. Most of these premature failures were likely due to ham fisted owners forcing the quick-disconnect halves together and stressing them. I've read my share of threads will lots of curse words within them when doing so. They are an easy slip together set of items when using new O-rings.

I have to agree with Paul and Lee on this one. And yes, everything does fail in time. But the failure of these plastic disconnects is not always "ham fisted" owners but actually due to the ozone breaking down the plastic and making it brittle and weak over time.

So unless you have somehow devised a way to keep your disconnects hermetically sealed it is just a matter of time before they break down. Metal ones are far superior.

[GlobalRider]

But the failure of these plastic disconnects is not always "ham fisted" owners but actually due to the ozone breaking down the plastic and making it brittle and weak over time.

I never said it was always the case, but considering how many threads I've read since they started using those QDs of owners cursing to get them to connect, I have to wonder. When they curse, they tend to force things and many have, as I have once...till I started using new O-rings each time I took them apart.

Metal ones are far superior.

Since mine are still original on my 2003 and since they have been apart/together many times, maybe I should change them. Kind of strange that mine haven't crumbled yet; in fact they look like the day I bought the GSA new.

Can you supply the make and model of equivalent QDs in metal that are identical in size? I don't want them any bigger than the ones on my GSA.

[Lee]

Can you supply the make and model of equivalent QDs in metal that are identical in size? I don't want them any bigger than the ones on my GSA.

Here is what you need from Beemerboneyard. The metal QDs are made by CPC, the same company as the OEM ones. They're the correct size for your fuel line, come with the correct sleeve type clamps for fuel injection, and have the correct Viton o-ring.

http://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon.html

Order online and use BMWMOA in the source code box for 10% discount.
The guys at the Boneyard are great to work with.

[GlobalRider]

The metal QDs are made by CPC, the same company as the OEM ones.

Do you have the CPC part number for them so that I can check their dimensions on line. QDs that have been recommended on forums since the beginning of time have always been bulkier and longer, which is one reason why I never considered them. Plus I need the one for the cross-over (just noticed their other kit with 3 fitting for the GSA).

They're the correct size for your fuel line, come with the correct sleeve type clamps for fuel injection, and have the correct Viton o-ring.

I thought our fuel line ID is 6 mm. Those on the QDs are almost 8 mm (5/16"). The O-ring material is good. I'll probably use Oetiker ear clamps for the lines.

Let me check what CPC has listed.

[Lee]

Do you have the CPC part number for them so that I can check their dimensions on line. QDs that have been recommended on forums since the beginning of time have always been bulkier and longer, which is one reason why I never considered them. Plus I need the one for the cross-over (just noticed their other kit with 3 fitting for the GSA).

It's been a few years, seem like the length is the same and the outside diameter is a little larger.
Like I said, Beemerboneyard is great to work with. Give them a call or email and ask about your concerns.