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Thread: Oil Filter Housing Removal - R100RS

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  1. #1
    Left Coast Rider
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    Oil Filter Housing Removal - R100RS

    Gentlemen,

    A buddy of mine is installing a deep sump with spin-on oil filter option on his '82 R100RS. He's run into a problem which I have pasted below. Any help you can provide would be met with joy and celebration. Thanks in advance for your help!

    "I need some info on removing the oil filter housing(the tube that the paper filter goes into) and the oil filter tube or pipe(named both in the manual) that the paper filter slides over.....pipe is inside housing but are two separate pieces.

    There is no removal info in the manual, but the diagrams indicate that the "pipe" has an o-ring on the block insertion end so I am assuming it is a push in/out assembly (no threads on drawing), but giving it a good tug didn't give me any good results. I don't want to vise grip the thing unless I have to. The housing must be removed to install the new sump stuff.
    The housing looks like it might be very difficult to remove if it is a pressed in piece......again, no real info in the book for me to go by..."
    Last edited by BC1100S; 11-22-2012 at 10:08 PM.

  2. #2
    doktortim
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    Quote Originally Posted by BC1100S View Post
    Gentlemen,

    A buddy of mine is installing a deep sump with spin-on oil filter option on his '82 R100RS. He's run into a problem which I have pasted below. Any help you can provide would be met with joy and celebration. Thanks in advance for your help!
    I would expect such an aftermarket setup would come with install instructions. I would contact the manufacturer for assistance.

    Your answer can be found at the Snowbum site.

    Anton as well has info at his site.

    Submit to the Airheads list and get fast responce to all questions Airhead.

    Your buddy just needs to hook up to the vast info available with a bit of research in the right places, this site certainly included when the subject is an airhead.

  3. #3
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    I looked on Anton's site and didn't see anything specific to removal/installation of the canister. I also don't think Snowbum goes into this kind of detail. Now if Tom Cutter had a website, it would be there! I believe it's been discussed on the Airheads list before...I tried to find in in the archives but couldn't track it down.
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  4. #4
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    Found the answer on the Airheads archive...posted by Oak in 2004. It's called a canister, not a housing, so I didn't find it right away. Here's what Oak posted:

    "Remove the oil pan. Take several hose clamps and put them around the canister
    near where it goes into the motor casting. Face the knuckles of the clamps
    one toward the bottom rear and one toward the bottom front. On the clamp
    knuckles, tap gently using a light plastic mallet with an impact motion toward the
    right side of the motor.. With care you can slowly and carefully tap the
    canister out of the bore in which it sets. Be careful not to let the canister cock at
    an angle."

    Installation:

    "When ready to install, with a degreaser, clean the motor casting bore where
    the canister taps in. Clean the canister also with a degreaser where it insets
    into the motor, at the shaved portion of the canister. Now very sparingly coat
    both canister and motor casting bore with blue loctite. Using the drift and
    having a depth gauge handy, tap the canister into the bore just far enough to
    inset the canister 3.0 mm which is the standard inset dimension, then STOP. It
    is possible to inset too far. You won't have to panic as the loctite will take
    a while to set up. But don't stall the job either. Once you start tapping the
    canister in, get the job done ASAP. (Blue loctite grip can be mitigated with
    heat about 250F if needed..)

    Eyeball the canister and make sure it is not cocked at an angle, and is
    concentric with the bore in the engine block on the right side. Now you can go have
    a beer and put it all back together later on after the loctite sets.
    Recalculate your parts needed before you sip the brew. It should be 1 shim, 1 large O
    ring, and a cover gasket optional depending on the final calculations..."
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  5. #5
    Left Coast Rider
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    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    Found the answer on the Airheads archive...posted by Oak in 2004. It's called a canister, not a housing, so I didn't find it right away.
    Thank you, sir. MUCH appreciated.

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