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Thread: Any help for pain in my back?

  1. #16
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    I have the same problem in that same location. The primary cause for me is the weight of my helmet and the way I hold my head. I had the same problem wearing the steel pot in my military days when I didn't ride.

    So for me, I try to consciously hold my head in a position that minimizes the stress. My favorite medication for muscle or joint pain is Ibuprofen. Good luck!

  2. #17
    Left Coast Rider
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    I'll go along with the bar position theory. Its all relative to your seating position but, as has been mentioned, you need to keep the shoulders down.

    Did you have this issue before your new seat? You may have exchanged "pain in the ass" for "pain in the neck/back".

    Adjust bars or seat to suit.

    (Almost forgot... I use synthetic oil and charge my battery with breach of trust.)

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by royaltyl View Post
    I am in my last two days (maybe three) of a two-week trip to the West Coast. Got a Russel saddle installed last Tuesday and it is just fine-no posterior pain at all. Truly all day comfort. But my back! I get this pain after about an hour of riding between my shoulder blades. It stays with me all the time on the bike. I can stretch it somewhat for some relief, but it comes back shortly. When I get off it goes away. Any advice? How about the usual pain relievers, aspirin, Advil, Ibuprofam? Which works best for muscular pain like this? If it weren't for this and a weak battery, I would be thoroughly enjoying my ride.

    Larry
    I've recently added a Back-A-Line (see http://www.backaline.com/) to my barbacks bag-of-tricks - it helps reduce the slouch that I find myself getting into over a period of time (as in about an hour into a 4-5 hour loop) and has helped significantly with reduction of lower and upper back twinges / pain / etc. I haven't progressed to the use of meds (at this point).
    JWMcDonald
    2003 R1150RS (current) / 1978 R80/7 (prior)
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  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by lkchris View Post
    As always ... if you're concerned about heat (or cold) use synthetic motor oil.
    I wouldn't recommend switching to synthetic. It will find a way to seep through older seals that have no problems keeping normal oil.

    Once the seep starts, one has to begin replacing seals.

    It's not worth it.

    I would look at battery too.

    As far as the bike and back pain, consider lowering the seat to the next notch or two down. This will have the effect of bringing the handlebars closer and higher.

    stretch your legs on the crash bars or cylinder heads if you need to.

    Lastly, when you're on the bike to a full spine and arm stretch. It's very common for your muscles to get tight and painful.

    Best to you!

    Jim

  5. #20
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    maybe someone who can t free up time to make a cross country ride has a voodoo doll of you and they are sticking pins in the dolls back. Seriously though, I m new to my rt and in the 5000 miles since June i have started to consider barbacks. The pain i get is in about the same place and starts after a couple of hours ride time. I have raised the seat to the middle position and that seems to help so i ll give that a try for awhile before making the investment.

  6. #21
    2011 R1200RT ka5ysy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OCJIMMY View Post
    I wouldn't recommend switching to synthetic. It will find a way to seep through older seals that have no problems keeping normal oil.
    Jim
    Why ? What's the difference ?

    Doug, 2011 R1200RT Polar Metallic
    MSF #127350 NAUI #36288

  7. #22
    Old man in the mountains osbornk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OCJIMMY View Post
    I wouldn't recommend switching to synthetic. It will find a way to seep through older seals that have no problems keeping normal oil.

    Once the seep starts, one has to begin replacing seals.

    Jim
    I don't you have to replace the seals. I tried synthetic in both an older K bike and an older Airhead. They both started seeping but both stopped when I went back to conventional oil. I sold the K bike but I have still have the airhead and it has been 13 or 14 years since I went back to conventional (and no seeps).
    'You can say what you want about the South, but I almost never hear of anyone wanting to retire to the North.

  8. #23
    Registered User easy's Avatar
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    Here are a few things I've found that help me.
    (1) Go through a routine of back exercises before a long ride.
    (2) Stop at regular intervals and stretch.
    (3) Make sure your posture is good. Wearing a cheap over the counter back brace will help with this.
    (4) Two Aleve will help the inflammation and pain, but they are not so good on the kidneys when used too regularly.
    (5) I’ve gone to a chiropractor in the past, but I won’t go to one unless I have good reason to trust their ability. So, I usually end up going after the trip, if necessary.
    (6) If necessary, losing a few pounds - get in better physical shape.

    E.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by osbornk View Post
    I don't you have to replace the seals. I tried synthetic in both an older K bike and an older Airhead. They both started seeping but both stopped when I went back to conventional oil. I sold the K bike but I have still have the airhead and it has been 13 or 14 years since I went back to conventional (and no seeps).
    Once oil seeps through a seal, you're screwed. Even switching back to conventional oil will not prevent this.

    If you're bike requires synthetic, (K1600, etc) then please stick with synthetic. If not, all the BMW techs I've seen say it makes no difference to engine life if you run synthetic.

    On a bike that's over 4 or so years old, switching to Synthetic may not be such a wise idea.

    Jim

  10. #25
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    I'd be cautious about switching to syn on machines originally made when it wasn't in common use but for the last decade its a non-issue. Never seen a seal leak on a more modern machine because of the switch- which is done by many RT owners when the bike is fully broken in- often at around 10-20K miles. (Wouldn't do on an airhead, though)

    The bike will crank a bit better in the cold without that 20-50 dino juice. And get an Odyssey PC-680, the best reasonably priced battery for the hexhead/camhead RT.

    The shoulder blade pain is sometimes caused by being too tense on the grips rather than relaxed, Do that plus carry too much weight on your hands and you're asking for troubles.
    Posture and relaxed grip are the fixes..

  11. #26
    Left Coast Rider
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    A thread about back pain has insidiously transformed itself into an oil thread. How the heck did that happen?

  12. #27
    2011 R1200RT ka5ysy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BC1100S View Post
    A thread about back pain has insidiously transformed itself into an oil thread. How the heck did that happen?

    When you get a message for the back pain, some oil is used in the procedure, so it is a proper extension of the original topic. Besides, stressing over oil being too thin, too synthetic, wrong rating etc. will cause back pain. And headaches. And probably impotence. Very logical.
    Doug, 2011 R1200RT Polar Metallic
    MSF #127350 NAUI #36288

  13. #28
    Registered User greenwald's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ka5ysy View Post
    Why ? What's the difference ?

    More efficient viscosisty.
    Kevin Greenwald - Touring Tips Editor
    Nationally Certified Law Enforcement Motor Officer (Ret.)
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  14. #29
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    I had the same "Knife Between The Shoulder Blades" syndrome after I bought my R1150R. The bike came with barbacks installed, and those combined with my long arms pushed me too far back thus causing the "KBTSB" problem. I took off the barbacks and have been just fine.
    Just modify the bike to fit you, it is easier than modifying yourself to fit the bike!

  15. #30
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    All threads eventually will devolve into oil and/or battery threads. Those are the only topics BMW owners are really comfortable discussing.
    '03 R1150R, '03 F650GS, '97DR200SE,'78 Honda CT-90, '77Honda CT-90

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