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Thread: alternator belt cover removal help

  1. #1
    JohnWC
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    alternator belt cover removal help

    I would appreciate some advice. I am attempting my first valve adjustment on an R1100RT. All three books I am working from state to remove the alternator belt cover you just," Remove the four bolts and slide it straight down." Easy as pie. The only problem seems to be that the exhaust pipes are about 3/8" away from the engine right under the cover. There is no way it will " slide right down. You can't bend the cover to get it over the pipes. It would appear that one must remove various parts of the fairing supports on one side or the other to slide it sideways. No book seems to note this. Since I gather most people have removed this cover at some point, how did you do it? Thanks.

  2. #2
    Registered User roger 04 rt's Avatar
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    I don't know the answer to your question but if you put your bike in gear you can "bump" the wheel in the forward direction to move the timing marks into view--at least on the 1150, no cover removal needed. For jobs like this I have found the JVB DVDs pretty helpful. RB
    Last edited by Roger 04 RT; 10-13-2012 at 11:44 AM.

  3. #3
    Registered User GKman's Avatar
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    On my 2002 R1150RT I had to loosen one bolt and remove the other from the small plastic panel that was in the way.

  4. #4
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    On an RT, it's pretty tight, especially if you have a non-factory shock up front. Fortunately, once you have the plugs out, it's pretty easy to just put the bike in gear (5th or 6th works well) and slowly rotate the rear wheel in the normal direction of travel to get to the "both valves closed" point.
    You also don't need to watch for the timing mark on the flywheel (another reason to leave the tupperware alone) - just watch the sprocket on the intake cam, and you'll see the line that will be pointing straight "out" horizontally when the cam is in the right place (50-50 chance here, you want the point where all the valves have the free play - If they're not loose, turn over one more revolution).
    If you really want to use the front nut to turn the engine over, once the cover is off (it does flex, a little...), you can drill a hole in the roundel there, just barely big enough to get the right socket through, see - http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads...od/index.shtml
    Last edited by Pauls1150; 10-14-2012 at 03:48 AM.

  5. #5
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    Unless you have an Ohlins shock on the front, removing the alternator cover is quite easy. You need to remove the left side fairing though and the left side "connection piece". Then just remove the four bolts holding the cover and slide it down, left and out past the header pipes.

    I've modified mine with an old Honda CB750 tappet cap so I can turn the engine over easily from the front without removing it. I find this easier and more accurate than bumping the back wheel which I seem to struggle with for some reason.
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  6. #6
    JohnWC
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    Thanks for the help. Indeed, it is as stated. You need to take off the right fairing, but also the "shark fin" piece underneath it. Then the cover can be slid out to the right side without any trouble. I am thinking about drilling the hold in the front cover, as two of you suggested. It would be a good addition for maintenance. My only worry would be water leaking into that cavity since it runs right behind the front wheel. But both methods, rubber plug and valve cap, seem like they would seal pretty well. Incidentally, I too, never have much luck trying to move the engine by bumping the rear wheel around, although I'm sure it does work. Anyway, thanks for the advice, everyone.

  7. #7
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    Don't worry about water or dirt - the chamber is wide open to atmosphere anyway, to keep the alternator cool - see the louvers.

    When I turn mine over, I do not "bump" the wheel - don't unnerstand how that term came into use... I grab it with both hands and slowly but firmly persuade it around. Pull one spark plug from each side, and the only real resistance is when you come up the ramp on the cams.

    HW - like your cap!

  8. #8
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JConway607 View Post
    Thanks for the help. Indeed, it is as stated. You need to take off the right fairing, but also the "shark fin" piece underneath it. Then the cover can be slid out to the right side without any trouble.
    Right side if looking from the front of the bike. Left if describing which side from the seated position.

    I picked the Honda tappet cap because:
    - I had a few in an old toolbox
    - It has an O Ring and I was concerned about water and dirt coming off the front wheel right at the thing
    - It sort of looks like it belongs there
    - The thing is metric


    Dang, that picture is blurry. But the cap is threaded on the inside there.
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

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