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Thread: 00 R1100RT Fairing "Toasted"

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  1. #1
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    Unhappy 00 R1100RT Fairing "Toasted"

    I've just noticed on my new to me RT that the fair shields on the backside of the fairing by the exhaust manifolds are brown and toasted, plus I have a blister the size of a half dollar on the left exhaust fairing. I felt the plastic after a short 5 mile ride I take to work, some stop and go but not a lot of sitting in traffic and even on a cool morning that plastic gets hot! Is this really normal or am I missing something engine wise. I'm near my 24k maint and the previous owner did valves and sync at 13k. I did put fresh NGK plugs in at 21k and changed to oil to 20/50 amsoil full syn.

    I just don't want to damage the fairing any further and catch fire!

    <>

  2. #2
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    either you or previous owner let the bike sit and warm up. totally unnecessary action- just start the bike and go; less than 30 seconds idling is plenty of warm up time.
    unless you get stuck in stopped traffic on a hot day for an extended amount of time (in which case, shut the engine down while sitting and waiting for movement to resume), there should be no issue with overheating to the point of damaging fairing or engine.
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

  3. #3
    OldBMWMaster JDOCKERY132445's Avatar
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    Valves

    Adjust your valves. Also run non-ethanol fuel; it runs much cooler.
    Jerry Dockery
    309 N. 3rd. Ave.
    Kure Beach, NC 28449
    1996 R1100RT main bike & 1985 K100RS...too fast to believe.

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    non-ethanol fuel

    Quote Originally Posted by JDOCKERY132445 View Post
    Adjust your valves. Also run non-ethanol fuel; it runs much cooler.
    I will do the valve adjustment, but the non-ethanol fuel use its almost impossible here to get it. I have put it in once but the long rides I like to do really can't find it much. I wish that was not the case...

  5. #5
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    And set the valves a bit on the loose side: instead of .006 and .012, use .007-.008 and .014. The extra coupla picoseconds of "closed" time lets the valve (especially the exhaust) transfer heat from the face to the head.

    Make sure the oil cooler is clean - no buggers clogging up the fins.

  6. #6
    Registered User GKman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDOCKERY132445 View Post
    Adjust your valves. Also run non-ethanol fuel; it runs much cooler.
    Ethanol requires 2.64 times as much heat to evaporate, cooling the charge (2378 BTU per Gal/900 BTU per Gal) and contains only 66% as much energy to turn into heat (76,330 BTU per Gal/116,000 BTU per Gal).
    Where does the heat come from?

  7. #7
    OldBMWMaster JDOCKERY132445's Avatar
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    The heat

    Quote Originally Posted by GKman View Post
    Ethanol requires 2.64 times as much heat to evaporate, cooling the charge (2378 BTU per Gal/900 BTU per Gal) and contains only 66% as much energy to turn into heat (76,330 BTU per Gal/116,000 BTU per Gal).
    Where does the heat come from?
    The heat comes from the engine running lean because it is not a "flex" engine.

    Non flex engines may burn lean with high ethanol blends such as E85 as the injectors run out of capacity at WOT conditions or such when engine controls pushed into temporary open loop feedback and assume gasoline is the fuel. Small engines, not adjusted may run lean, similarly, even with low ethanol blends. Lean burn conditions would increase combustion temperature within an ethanol burn.

    I had this occur while at Daytona this year. I filled up at a station that had not sold much premium [my stupidity for stopping a a small convenience store] and the fuel has separated giving me a high alcohol level.

    I have toasted "shark fins" on my R1100RT to drive the point home.
    Jerry Dockery
    309 N. 3rd. Ave.
    Kure Beach, NC 28449
    1996 R1100RT main bike & 1985 K100RS...too fast to believe.

  8. #8
    Registered User GKman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDOCKERY132445 View Post
    The heat comes from the engine running lean because it is not a "flex" engine.

    Non flex engines may burn lean with high ethanol blends such as E85 as the injectors run out of capacity at WOT conditions or such when engine controls pushed into temporary open loop feedback and assume gasoline is the fuel. Small engines, not adjusted may run lean, similarly, even with low ethanol blends. Lean burn conditions would increase combustion temperature within an ethanol burn.

    I had this occur while at Daytona this year. I filled up at a station that had not sold much premium [my stupidity for stopping a a small convenience store] and the fuel has separated giving me a high alcohol level.

    I have toasted "shark fins" on my R1100RT to drive the point home.
    Thanx for the detailed info. There is so much mis-information floating around, I like to check and see if the poster knows what he's talking about. Sounds like you do.

  9. #9
    Registered User kgadley01's Avatar
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    Yea my 99RT did the same thing. I purchased a package of header wrap from the local parts store. It takes some time to do it right, but if you follow the instructions carefully, it will turn out very nice. I did mine all the way to just in front of the catolic converter. Heat problem solved!!!
    AKA SNAPGADGET
    Lifes too short to ride an ugly Motorcycle

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    Unhappy I did the header wrap with no real improvement

    Quote Originally Posted by kgadley01 View Post
    Yea my 99RT did the same thing. I purchased a package of header wrap from the local parts store. It takes some time to do it right, but if you follow the instructions carefully, it will turn out very nice. I did mine all the way to just in front of the catolic converter. Heat problem solved!!!
    I wrapped the headers this weekend, but my heat problems seems no better. I have people telling me it will be worse because the wrap makes it even closer to the tupperware. I'm at my whits end with this bike!
    Brian Dewey
    Syracuse NY
    35+ on the road
    2000 R1100RT Current

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by deweybr1920 View Post
    I wrapped the headers this weekend, but my heat problems seems no better. I have people telling me it will be worse because the wrap makes it even closer to the tupperware. I'm at my whits end with this bike!
    wrapping the headers is treating the symptom, not the cause. your bike should not be running so hot as to blister the paint and melt parts.
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

  12. #12
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    Start and go

    Yes, I've learned in the past month start and go is the way to go and I do so every time. Put I never really let it sit more than a minute or two the first week or two I had the bike. I just want to make sure I don't have any other issues.

  13. #13
    Registered User wmedlar's Avatar
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    The previous owner of my '96 RT blistered the tupperware. I initially worried about more damage when stuck in slow traffic and high temperatures... I decided to remove the tupperware, clean it well, and then put DEI's high temperature aluminum tape on the surfaces closest to the exhaust pipes, reflecting away heat. I have had not a problem, even in 100 degree temps in very slow moving traffic.

  14. #14
    Registered User Bmandiego's Avatar
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    I had also wondered about putting some type of coating like Rhinoliner or some heat resistant stuff on those surfaces.
    2000 R1100RT-P

  15. #15
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    Once Christmas vacation gets here, I'll probably pull mine and get them ceramic coated. I had them coated by a local firm and it started bubbling in first 5 minutes it ran. I'll do a bit more research this time and ship them off somewhere to get a good coating.

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