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Thread: /6 Clutch Switch and Neutral Switch issues

  1. #1
    Superkraut typ181r90's Avatar
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    /6 Clutch Switch and Neutral Switch issues

    I replaced my neutral switch about 5 months ago (early type, old one was leaking badly) and the switch is broken as of yesterday. It only works randomly and not often and I isolated the problem at the switch since by bridging the wires I can get a neutral reading on the instrument pod. I just ordered another one and was wondering if anyone else has gotten these crappy new units or was it just a random bad one I got? I know Hucky's has an aftermarket brass alternative, but it's only for the newer type

    That leads me to my next question, along with a new neutral switch I also ordered a new clutch switch since the one on my bike exists by the clutch lever but there aren't any wires coming from it to the headlight shell, as if the PO broke a clip and then just removed the wire. I know how to replace the switch onto the left controls, but where in the headlight shell does the wire connection go to? I haven't been able to locate it in the various manuals, but maybe I just wasn't looking hard enough. I'm hoping I won't have to buy anything additional to put in the headlight shell. Any help would be appreciated
    // 1975 BMW R90/6 (cafe'd) // 1957 BMW R60 (in pieces) // 1967 Aermacchi/H-D Sprint 250 SS (custom special) // 1973 VW Type 181 Custom SOLD )

    http://symphonyofshrapnel.blogspot.com

  2. #2
    #4869 DennisDarrow's Avatar
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    Really NOT aware of the /5 or /6 having the clutch switch that disables the starter.... if not engaged. I could be very wrong and am sure if so will be corrected; but I remember being down at the "store" where all the locals hang out for coffee and thinking I was in neutral hit the starter button.....needless to stay the jump that the bike took with me holding the bar is still remembered vividly when I show up on the bike for my coffee and sausage biscuit.......God bless.......Dennis

  3. #3
    Superkraut typ181r90's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DennisDarrow View Post
    Really NOT aware of the /5 or /6 having the clutch switch that disables the starter.... if not engaged. I could be very wrong and am sure if so will be corrected; but I remember being down at the "store" where all the locals hang out for coffee and thinking I was in neutral hit the starter button.....needless to stay the jump that the bike took with me holding the bar is still remembered vividly when I show up on the bike for my coffee and sausage biscuit.......God bless.......Dennis
    Don't know about the /5, but my 75 /6 definitely has it. I just removed the actual switch from the bars, only thing I can't place is where the wiring connects in the headlight bucket
    // 1975 BMW R90/6 (cafe'd) // 1957 BMW R60 (in pieces) // 1967 Aermacchi/H-D Sprint 250 SS (custom special) // 1973 VW Type 181 Custom SOLD )

    http://symphonyofshrapnel.blogspot.com

  4. #4
    Monza Blue 1974 R90/6
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    I have a '74 /6 with the old style handlebar controls (small round knobs) with the clutch and brake switches that are like small tin cans covered by a rubber boot. Are your controls and switches the same; or, are they the later style?

    Here are some pictures of the two types of controls and switches (about half way down the page).

    http://www.bmwhucky.com/010061.html


    As you can see, on my bike, the two wires for the clutch switch split off the harness wires that go to the control (bright light and horn).

    I can look at where they connect on the board inside the headlight, if that would help you.

    Barron

  5. #5
    Monza Blue 1974 R90/6
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    One more thought - about the neutral switch in the transmission - is it possible that the switch isn't bad, but rather, it needs one more or one less spacer?

    I'm thinking it might be just on the edge of being adjusted properly, either too far in, or not in far enough, but just enough that it operates intermittently.

    Barron

  6. #6
    Superkraut typ181r90's Avatar
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    My controls are the newer type and use the clutch switch 61 31 1 243 403 (pictured below the controls on hucky's). I can see that there's a brown + brown/yellow wire coming off it into a single connection with a horizontal and vertical terminal, but can't seem to find anywhere in the headlight shell to make that connection. Maybe I can cut that single connection and just plug the wires into their respective terminals on the board if I can't find that corresponding female connection?

    The problem with the neutral switch at the trans was that it was working fine, it is now leaking like a sieve and I'm wondering if that is messing up the internal connection somehow. This wasn't apparent yesterday, but the pool of gear oil on my garage floor this afternoon tipped me off :-/. Funny thing is I used the JB Weld trick on this one before I put it in, but I suppose I didn't get enough coverage.
    Last edited by Typ181R90; 09-06-2012 at 01:41 AM.
    // 1975 BMW R90/6 (cafe'd) // 1957 BMW R60 (in pieces) // 1967 Aermacchi/H-D Sprint 250 SS (custom special) // 1973 VW Type 181 Custom SOLD )

    http://symphonyofshrapnel.blogspot.com

  7. #7
    Monza Blue 1974 R90/6
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    Ok, we need somebody with the new controls to tell you how theirs is hooked up.

    Barron

  8. #8
    Superkraut typ181r90's Avatar
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    well on page 21 of the search results (isn't the search function so helpful) I found this:
    http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showpost...51&postcount=9

    the poster mentions that the plunger (the clutch switch) was at the lever, but coiled up under the tank, but you can see the connection it makes. Does this look right to anyone out there with a 75+ /6? I definitely don't have this wire to connect to, I'm thinking of just cutting the wires and connecting them to the board in their respective colors

    EDIT 0700

    I just got home from my night shift and while at work I remembered that I had some wiring I kept from the PO's wiring debacle. My bike was fully faired when I got it, with clear speaker wire all over the place and various broken/rigged connections in the headlight shell - thankfully when I cleaned up his mess I kept all the weird stuff and broken connections. Going through my box o'crap I found a brown/yellow and brown wire taped together with their ends sheared off one side but the plugs to connect into the contact board still in place. Being that these were taped together, they match the colors that go with the clutch switch, and I have the free slots available in my board, I'm assuming that's how this guy had it set up or maybe that's just how it was stock on my bike? I'm gonna go to sleep now and see what I can do later, but I think that closes that case
    Last edited by Typ181R90; 09-06-2012 at 11:11 AM.
    // 1975 BMW R90/6 (cafe'd) // 1957 BMW R60 (in pieces) // 1967 Aermacchi/H-D Sprint 250 SS (custom special) // 1973 VW Type 181 Custom SOLD )

    http://symphonyofshrapnel.blogspot.com

  9. #9
    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
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    The /5 model does not have a clutch switch; self preservation was still deemed the responsibility of the operator...

    Here's a link to the /6 wiring diagram found in the MOA Resources & Links section. There are two diagrams on the page, they are identical, with the exception that the one at the bottom of the page is HUGE (use "control" and "+" or "-" to enlarge/reduce it).

    See > http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/schematic1975,1976.htm

    The diagram below is also from the R&L section, it's for '78 /7 models, but shows the same circuitry. It's easier to understand, I think.

    The "clutch switch" is immediately above the word "Wiring"... at the bottom of the drawing.

    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden

    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner

  10. #10
    Superkraut typ181r90's Avatar
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    thanks Lew, I can see clearly on there that it connects into the board, I think what was causing all of the confusion was the two-pole terminal at the end of the switch because it doesn't allow you to connect direct to the board and I didn't see a corresponding terminal - as of this morning I see that's because the PO cut it off at some time and left the wires in the headlight shell

    Now I just hope the new neutral switch I have coming tomorrow isn't going to break within another 5 months. Since I haven't heard from anyone else concerning bad batches I'll just assume that I had a random bad egg. BMW isn't getting these manufactured in China now are they?

    The /5 model does not have a clutch switch; self preservation was still deemed the responsibility of the operator...
    I'm with you, I think all that extra safety wiring is nonsense. I never needed any of that crap in a car and I can find neutral just fine on my bike.
    // 1975 BMW R90/6 (cafe'd) // 1957 BMW R60 (in pieces) // 1967 Aermacchi/H-D Sprint 250 SS (custom special) // 1973 VW Type 181 Custom SOLD )

    http://symphonyofshrapnel.blogspot.com

  11. #11
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    This spring I added the clutch-ignition switch to my 1977 R60/7. The bike came with a dummy piece in the clutch lever and I had to trace down the connection. If I recall correctly, it was not in the headlight bucket, rather there was a wire set/connection under the tank for it. I remember it being simple once I found the connector.

  12. #12
    Superkraut typ181r90's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BandAidMan View Post
    This spring I added the clutch-ignition switch to my 1977 R60/7. The bike came with a dummy piece in the clutch lever and I had to trace down the connection. If I recall correctly, it was not in the headlight bucket, rather there was a wire set/connection under the tank for it. I remember it being simple once I found the connector.
    I think you're right and that's how the bike is supposed to be set up as the wire coming off the switch is really long. I took my tank off and searched high and low and came up with nothing, which really isn't surprising considering how much of a wiring mess the bike was when I got it.

    I wound up doing what I thought I might have to do, cutting off the terminal that comes with the switch and putting individual ones per wire going directly to their corresponding colors on the connection board in the headlight - it worked perfectly. Thanks everyone for the help

    Also put in the new, new neutral switch, we'll see how long this one lasts me
    // 1975 BMW R90/6 (cafe'd) // 1957 BMW R60 (in pieces) // 1967 Aermacchi/H-D Sprint 250 SS (custom special) // 1973 VW Type 181 Custom SOLD )

    http://symphonyofshrapnel.blogspot.com

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