Take it to a powder-coater; it might be a nice change of appearance? The p-c guy in our area has a nice silver that looks like "natural" aluminum.
Of course, you'd be half way to the cost of an aluminum cap by the time you were done...
Take it to a powder-coater; it might be a nice change of appearance? The p-c guy in our area has a nice silver that looks like "natural" aluminum.
Of course, you'd be half way to the cost of an aluminum cap by the time you were done...
"It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden
Lew Morris
1973 R75/5 - original owner
Sorry, resurrecting a dead thread here...
Another option, if you are stuck a with gnarly-looking, pitted chrome cap, want to keep the chrome, and are also in the somewhat unfortunate position of also owning a bright, shiny new (and expensive) chrome cap from the dealer with the ugly locking device, is this:
- Swap out the lock part of the new cap for the regular old ribbed button on the old cap.
Anyway, that's what I did. The button on the old cap was by far the least pitted element, so when mated with the new cap, the assembly looks like a brand new chrome cap! The caps themselves are from the exact same mold (new locking and old non-locking) so it works perfectly. Getting the little expanding pin out of the button isn't a picnic, but you get that nice sense of accomplishment, right?
Although if I had it to do over again, I certainly wouldn't pay huge amounts of cash for that new locking cap... At least it's not sitting in my box of spares anymore...
Mine wasn't chrome, and took a nice polish along with all the other alu bits of my bike. Several rounds of sanding, 120 to 180 to 220 to 320 to 400 (180 and up wetsanding) and then two rounds on the buffer, once with a 'cut' buff and once with a looseleaf buff and jeweler's rouge.
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