Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 33

Thread: 94 R1100RS Knock and Valve Train Noise

  1. #16
    Left Coast Rider
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Vancouver Canada
    Posts
    1,073
    OK, based on your presentation of facts, I'm in with a WAG....big end or crank bearing. On the other hand, it could be a chain tensioner. No, valves have kissed the piston. Alright, alright, I haven't got the foggiest. Makes as much sense as anything else.

    Get thee to a mechanic, young man.

  2. #17
    Registered User david.soley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Toledo, Ohio
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by ANDYVH View Post
    About the only way you'd know this, " Neither the sparkplugs nor the piston show signs of impact.", would be to remove the heads or look into the spark pug hole with a boroscope.

    Unless the spark plug is the wrong threaded length, it cannot contact the piston at any timing condition in the engine. However, the valves can contact the piston if not timed/adjusted properly. Contact again would be difficult to see without remoing the heads. If contact did occur, it would likely be near the outer diameter of the piston, nothing you could see through the spark plug hole.
    True enough. I may borrow a boroscope from work tomorrow and see what I can see.

  3. #18
    Registered User david.soley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Toledo, Ohio
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by BC1100S View Post
    OK, based on your presentation of facts, I'm in with a WAG....big end or crank bearing...
    Based on the disgusting knocking noise the engine made, my thoughts, depressing as they are, is a big end bearing also. That has also been the first answer when describing the condition to non-Beemer mechanic friends of mine. I was hoping against hope that since this is the first Beemer engine I have worked on that there was something perculiar to these engines that I didn't know about.

  4. #19
    Nickname: Droid
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Green Bay, WI
    Posts
    2,352
    If you can get a boroscope to view in there, it would be interesting to do and then also rotate the engine and view the valves opening.

  5. #20
    Registered User redsledrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    West Mansfield, Ohio
    Posts
    124
    How much play would a bad bearing give you? Could you see or feel with a screw driver on the piston head the non-movement of the piston when turning the crank back in forth a little??
    84 Honda 700S Nighthawk
    95 R1100RS

  6. #21
    Nickname: Droid
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Green Bay, WI
    Posts
    2,352
    I really doubt you could sense it that way. The running clearance on the big end to the crank journal is in the "thousandths of an inch" range, which could only be registered with a dial indicator mounted to the head, and a degree wheel on the crank pulley to register motion of a few degree at Top Dead Center. Even then I think its doubtful to be accurate to assess what may be causing your issue.

    I do have to say, that for the miles on your bike, unless it was starved of oil at some time, it should not be making those noises from the big end on the crank journals.

    I need to look up an engine detail, because your earlier comment has me confused, "When I run the engine, the very loud and obnoxious chain noise sounds like it is coming from the auxillary drive shaft chain."

    Auxiliary drive shaft chain? Do you mean the center chain from the lower crank sprocket to the upper sprocket? Only other chain in the R1100 Oilhead are the cam chains on each side. The early Oilheads had no balancer shaft like the later models. But those shafts all run on plain journals, so as long as the oil wasn't depleted at some time, those journals should last the life of the bike.
    Last edited by ANDYVH; 08-29-2012 at 04:30 PM.

  7. #22
    Registered User david.soley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Toledo, Ohio
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by ANDYVH View Post
    I need to look up an engine detail, because your earlier comment has me confused, "When I run the engine, the very loud and obnoxious chain noise sounds like it is coming from the auxillary drive shaft chain."

    Auxiliary drive shaft chain? Only chain in the R1100 Oilhead I know of is the cam chain. The alternator is driven by belt on the front of the engine, and the early Oilheads had no balancer shaft like the later models.
    There are three chains in an oilhead: the right cam chain, the left cam chain and the timing chain. I mistakenly called it the auxillary drive shaft chain when it is the chain in the auxillary-shaft drive system and referred to as the timing chain.

    The crankshaft drives the auxillary shaft through the timing chain. This chain is located in the front of the engine within the crankcase. The auxillary shaft drives the both the right and left cams through the cam shaft chains. These chains are located behind in the back of the engine with the bulk of the chains located in the cylinders.

    The chain noise is not coming from the back of either the right or left cylinders where the cam chains run but from the front of the crankcase where the timing chain (which I called the auxillary drive shaft chain) is located.

  8. #23
    Nickname: Droid
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Green Bay, WI
    Posts
    2,352
    Ahh,...we have reached an accord.

    That's what I figured it was, and to that it may be beneficial if it a noise generated by that chain system. Isn't that chain/sprocket system serviceable from the front of the engine without having to split the case?

  9. #24
    Benchwrenching PGlaves's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    "Big Bend" TX
    Posts
    8,655
    Quote Originally Posted by ANDYVH View Post
    Ahh,...we have reached an accord.

    That's what I figured it was, and to that it may be beneficial if it a noise generated by that chain system. Isn't that chain/sprocket system serviceable from the front of the engine without having to split the case?
    Yes. That chain system and tensioner is accessed via the front. The aluminum piece behind the black plastic cover, behind the pulley, to which the alternator is mounted can come off the front of the engine.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://www.bigbend.net/users/glaves

  10. #25
    Registered User david.soley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Toledo, Ohio
    Posts
    11
    Quote Originally Posted by ANDYVH View Post
    Ahh,...we have reached an accord.

    That's what I figured it was, and to that it may be beneficial if it a noise generated by that chain system. Isn't that chain/sprocket system serviceable from the front of the engine without having to split the case?
    And having removed the black plastic alternator belt cover and then the aluminum alternator support cover which covers the timing chain and to which the alternator mounts, visual inspection reveals....

    ...nothing out of the ordinary. The investigation will continue.

  11. #26
    Registered User redsledrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    West Mansfield, Ohio
    Posts
    124
    Have a look at the right side TB cable end and make sure it is seated down inside the holder thingiee. I had mine sitting on the top of the hold and it ran like poop. You were in that area doing some work. WHAT DID YOU DO LAST?? I think someone on this thread said that. hehe

    I'm just down the road from you in West Mansfield.
    84 Honda 700S Nighthawk
    95 R1100RS

  12. #27
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    357
    I hate to ask this after you have done so much work....but...

    Did you check the cable to the right throttle body to make sure it was seated well in the adjustment screw? It will make the engine sound like something is drastically wrong.

  13. #28
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Vancouver, B.C. Canada
    Posts
    1,965
    This thread is an interesting mystery. After reading RedSledRider's question about the throttle cables being properly seated and JHGilbert repeating the exact same question six hours later and what happened to me today the deja vu was almost too much to handle!

    I spent the today working on my '00 1100RT. Installing a new front tire and also installing a new GPS cradle to replace the one I robbed two weeks ago to go to Nakusp on my old G/S. Tank had to come off and some other bits to expose the area I wanted to run the harness back to the battery.

    Long story short(er) when I put the bike back together I had a bit of a panic attack. It was running great before today and suddenly it would barely start and when it did it sounded like it was about to self destruct. Running on one cylinder and knocking so badly I thought a valve had broken off or something equally terrible. I got my handy dandy laser thermometer and quickly surmised the right side was not firing.
    - Removed plug, check for spark. Good
    - Removed coil, check resistance. Good
    - Check tank and injector connectors. Good
    What the heck is going on here?
    - Pull off front alternator cover since belt was screeching a bit during the awful running... All good in there.

    Finally as I am scratching my head in wonder I decide to check the throttle cables. I twist the grip and check both sides for stones or blockage and that is when I notice the right side throttle cable ferrel is sitting on top of the dang adjuster. Kind of a "hallelujuah, you knucklehead, oh crap why did you take the bike half apart before checking this" moment ensues.

    Re seat the cable, reinstall the tank etc. etc. and she fires right up and purrs like it did when I started working on it this morning...

    So yeah, a throttle cable pulled up out of the adjuster will make your oilhead sound like it's all over but the crying. And Paul's right when he advises us to check around the last stuff you did when things like this happen.
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  14. #29
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    5
    Plus 1 on what happywander said first time I did some work on my 2002 r1150rs when I put the bike back together I got the same result I went through the exact same process before I accidently noticed the cable housing out of the adjuster barrel poped it back in and put it back together again purred like a kitten on the plus side once you have done this you will always know what this sounds like when it happens again

  15. #30
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    357
    I did the same thing on my RT and thought I had ruined the bike. I'm glad it was something simple.

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •