Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 17

Thread: engine cleaning

  1. #1
    Phil B bullfrog_28560's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    currently Germany
    Posts
    105

    engine cleaning

    hello all, I have a question, what do you guys use to clean the engines to make them look new, is it a home job. I have seen the homemade baking soda blaster. is there other ways. thanks
    Phil Bouffard
    SSG U.S. Army
    Kaiserslautern, Germany

  2. #2
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Northern Front Range, CO
    Posts
    6,422
    cleaning? any day nice enough to clean the bike is a day that is nice enough to ride. i know which task i prefer......
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

  3. #3
    Registered User jad01's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Houston, TX or Portland, OR
    Posts
    332
    Quote Originally Posted by bullfrog_28560 View Post
    hello all, I have a question, what do you guys use to clean the engines to make them look new, is it a home job. I have seen the homemade baking soda blaster. is there other ways. thanks
    I like simple green for the most part. At a 1:1 dilution, it will dissolve most of muck that accumulates ( oil, tar, bugs). I use a small scrub brush and a toothbrush for the stubborn bits if/when necessary, but most stuff just rinses off after a short soak. It does seem to cause a light film of white corrosion to develop on the bare aluminum of the engine cases of my old airhead. At the Sedalia rally, Tom Cutter suggested using WD-40 to wipe on the cases. I used it after cleaning the bike after the rally, and so far it seems to be working great (sure looks good!). He says it will help prevent stuff from adhering to the cases as well- we'll see... so far, so good.
    Jim
    '78 R80/7 and '84 R100RS (Blues Brothers), '86 K75C (Icy Hot)
    '90 and '93 Mazda Miatas (Jelly Bean and Red Hot), '02 325ci (Blue Streak)
    '96 Giant Upland (big Kendas & freshly greased bearings!)

  4. #4
    Douglas Williams
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    319
    http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthre...ngine+cleaning

    I did a search of the Forum and came up with this. Use 'search forum' and you'll probably get some other hits.
    Sent from a Galaxy, far, far away

  5. #5
    Rpbump USN RET CPO Rpbump's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Posts
    1,003

    Thumbs up

    Soak with S100 & water, Rinse throughly, I use a Jet Blaster to dry.
    Cave Contents: 1980 R100RT/Ural Sidecar, 2004 R1200CLC, 2006 HD FSXTI
    Ride Safe

  6. #6
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    socal
    Posts
    377
    I use aircraft simple green, approved by Boeing aircraft, aluminum friendly
    With a cold engine and a spritzer bottle spray down engine, let it sit for a few minutes then rinse, repeat as necessary
    Avoid electrical connections, cleans wheels and brakes also

  7. #7
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Wilmington, NC
    Posts
    2,119
    Better be careful with S100. Its far too concentrated as sold and is one of the best ways to get water to wick into electrical connectors, etc. Not a good thing for long term reliability, especially if you live in humid, coastal climates, etc...

    I use a cleaner sold by the gallon for less than $20 by my local J brands shop and dilute it at least 3 fold in a 1 gal garden sprayer. Still working on my first gallon several years later given the few times per year I clean the bike. I use S100 the same way but dilute it in a quart hand sprayer.

    The Master Blaster is the easiest way one can dry a bike and gets that water out of difficult spots quickly. A bit pricey for what it is - guess it would be cheaper of Chinese- but works well and is reliable. Mine sits right next to my air compressor..

    WD40 is essentially menhaden oil in petroleum distillate (or was- all of the fish oil plants in NC where it was harvested are now closed- a combo of decimating the resource with excessive harvest and their neighbors getting tired of the smells associated with them) Would work to minimize corrosion and adherence of heavy dirt but there are more modern and effective alternatives like some of the aircraft products...

  8. #8
    Registered User
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Northern New Jersey
    Posts
    662
    Quote Originally Posted by racer7 View Post
    Better be careful with S100. Its far too concentrated as sold and is one of the best ways to get water to wick into electrical connectors, etc. Not a good thing for long term reliability, especially if you live in humid, coastal climates, etc...
    How do you know it "is one of the best ways to get water to wick into electrical connectors"? Please cite your proof of that comment. Myself and just about every M/C owner local to me all have used S100 right out of the spray bottle for many years with zero issues. All cleaners will warn you about electrical components, and even plain water isn't supposed to be used to soak electronics, so common sense is the rule and it apparently has served me well. Never had an electrical, nor aluminum, nor paint or rubber issue using it straight.

  9. #9
    Nickname: Droid
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Green Bay, WI
    Posts
    2,352
    One thing I know for certain, do NOT use Castrol Purple Stuff on a hot engine, especially at full strength. It WILL remove the clearcoat, and etch the aluminum to its bare state. Heck, it even removes some anodizing.

    For really tough stuff, Purple Stuff is good, if rinsed soon, or cut by 50% with water before spraying it on.

  10. #10
    Left Coast Rider
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Vancouver Canada
    Posts
    1,048
    Quote Originally Posted by ANDYVH View Post
    One thing I know for certain, do NOT use Castrol Purple Stuff on a hot engine, especially at full strength. It WILL remove the clearcoat, and etch the aluminum to its bare state. Heck, it even removes some anodizing.

    For really tough stuff, Purple Stuff is good, if rinsed soon, or cut by 50% with water before spraying it on.
    +1 on all in the above post.

    I use Spray 9 cut 3:1. Works well. Leaves paint where its supposed to be.

  11. #11
    Swamp Fox GeneT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    350

    Cleaning engines

    Bike Bright, usually found in non dealership bike shops, about 10 bucks a pop but it works. S 100 sold by our friendly BMW dealers will cause seizure of bolts and metal to metal parts. Don't even think about it.
    Gene T

  12. #12
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    53
    In my experience S100 is the best if I'm cleaning engine dirt. Use it after a ride with the bike warm, spraying it liberally. Then without delay spray aggressively with water. Good as new. However, don't spray it on shiny aluminum surfaces (GS wheels) and get distracted with a long phone conversation. S100 will etch aluminum to a milky haze if left too long.

  13. #13
    Phil B bullfrog_28560's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    currently Germany
    Posts
    105

    a different kind of clean I meant

    thanks for all the degreasing suggestions, The clean I was speaking of is a nice and bright factory annodized finish. The heads are darker than the rest, i wanted to make it all look factory fresh. any more suggestions besides high heat paint?
    Phil Bouffard
    SSG U.S. Army
    Kaiserslautern, Germany

  14. #14
    Alps Adventurer GlobalRider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Canada and the Alps
    Posts
    3,602
    I've been using one product since 1986, Swish Facto AT30. It is the best degreaser I've come across, it is water based and safe on any surface used in the transportation industry. It is a commercial product. You can get it from Swish in Poland.

    A clean motorcycle and clean car using Factor AT 30.

  15. #15
    Alps Adventurer GlobalRider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Canada and the Alps
    Posts
    3,602
    Quote Originally Posted by bullfrog_28560 View Post
    The clean I was speaking of is a nice and bright factory annodized finish. The heads are darker than the rest, i wanted to make it all look factory fresh. any more suggestions besides high heat paint?
    I used a product from Swish a long time ago that was used for brightening up aluminum and it worked very well. If you've seen the part of an R bike where the flywheel and clutch are, you know how dirty and corroded the surface of the aluminum can be in there.

    This is after I used that product. All I did was brush it on and rinse.


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •