There is no need to pull the pistons out of the cylenders. Pull the heads up to the point you can remove the wrist pins. Then pull the cylenders off with the pistons still in them.
There is no need to pull the pistons out of the cylenders. Pull the heads up to the point you can remove the wrist pins. Then pull the cylenders off with the pistons still in them.
Why wait 'till winter- I'd have one in celebration after fixing the seals!Originally Posted by bikerfish1100
Jim
'78 R80/7
'90 and '93 Red Mazda Miatas ("Jelly Bean" and "Red Hot")
'96 Giant Upland (big Kendas & freshly greased bearings!)
That's correct, tapping doesn't apply to anything from the 1980s on.
And yes, if you have an o-ring sealing the cylinder to the block, you'll want to replace it. This applies for sure to the original poster's bike and for all bikes since maybe 1978 or so. You may want to search for hylomar with respect to this, too.
Kent Christensen
21482
'12 R1200RT, '02 R1100S, '84 R80G/S
question: A thin smear of gasket seal on the rubber tubes at assembly? Or would that cause the tubes to pull free of the heads as the temps change? I am getting ready to do the same job on two bikes.
Nope, no seal on the pushrod tube rubbers.
Maybe some motor oil in fact.
Kent Christensen
21482
'12 R1200RT, '02 R1100S, '84 R80G/S
Thanks.
Just did this job, and another one lies just ahead. . .
Snowbum says to use SILICON Grease on the INTERIOR of the rubber, and on the interior of the pushrod tube (light coating).
Clean engine oil on the EXTERIOR of the rubbers. To my knowledge, NOBODY recommends any type of gasket seal, etc. on the rubbers, or they'll leak. YRMV.
My advice is to wade through Snowbum's tutorial on replacing seals, as there are many valuable tips therein.
Walking Eagle
Oak sells a complete book/pamphlet on replacing pushrod tube seals...it's a good thing to have if you're doing any top end work. It walks you through the process and provides great step-by-step instructions. Well worth the $25. You'll have to email him to get it... askoak at aol dot com.
Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
'78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!
Absolutely, what Kurt said.
Easy job with the manual. Many traps for the unwary without it.
For anyone doing this for the first time: Stay very organized, take your time, and work clean. You're removing (or at least, moving) some large important parts that are going to be moving real quick when they're back together. NO margin for error.
Quite satisfying experience.
Walking Eagle
I will have to look into the manual. Ok, I backed off on the one cylinder I installed and cleaned the sealer from the rubbers and their holes. I torqued it down, but now I guess I need a new head gasket.
Does it leak?
Phil Keppelman #20331
MOA Rally Stage Manager
The shortest distance between two points.............
ain't how I got here......
I figured once the gasket was compressed it could not be removed and reused even if the engine was never turned over. That is an assumption, but a new one would allow me to start over from scratch and get it right with no nagging doubts.
1982 R100 cs on the bench, 1992 R100RT waiting in line for new seals all around.
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