2000 R1100RT cutting out

[happy wanderer]

I've been considering replacing my HES due to the age of my bike and would prefer to take a proactive approach to replacing it. Anyway, has anyone rebuilt their HES, ie., wiring? What wire did you use for a high temp environment?

Have at it. See here: http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom...ll_sensors.pdf

I read this great article by Dana Hager and decided to buy a new and improved one that already has higher temp rated teflon wire from euromotoelectric for $219.


A friend rebuilds HES plates here in BC but he's well equipped with the right tools, extractors, replacement HES sensors and great hand skills. The correct wire is expensive and hard to buy in small amounts. It can be done!

[OLSENSAN]

Outstanding article with great technical info. Thanks!

[happy wanderer]

Outstanding article with great technical info. Thanks!

Yeah he wrote quite a few excellent pieces. First rate technical writing. But I still like this solution http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/BOS...gnsen-r137.htm to get a bike on the road quickly and with improved materials that should not break down like the original did. Whoever picked that wire for this application clearly did not take into account the tremendous heat stress in that area of the engine. And BMW never did a recall on a pretty obvious design defect. I mean, they ALL go!

[23217]

Dana Hager did a great job explaining how to rebuild the HES. I am grateful for his excellent instruction sheet. So, I don't want to be disrespectful in pointing out a slightly better material choice. As I have previously posted, I am not convinced that his wire choice is the best solution.

Wire failures are generally caused by one of the 4 conditions:

1. Casing threshold temperature is too low
2. Corrosion of the wire (yes, solid copper can corrode)
3. Overload of current through the wire.
4. Movement causes breakage.

Dana's solution only addresses the first condition. I am not convinced that there isn't a corrosion problem. One way to avoid the 2nd condition is to use Marine grade wire. That is, tinned wire.

I would use an oversized wire that is tinned along with a high-temp casing (such as TFE or other material). This would address the first 3 conditions, instead of just the 1st one. You only want to do this job once.

It is also important to make sure that the wire you order is solid copper, and not CCA or CCS. CCA and CCS wire is become popular due to the economy.

[ClarkMorris]

Just a quick post for anybody trying to purchase new Hall Effect Sensors. I used the hogwash technical article to repair my wiring that was bad.... and this did fix my no spark condition on my 1999 R1100-RTP .... however I was going to try and find the Honeywell 2AV54 Hall Effects Sensors to make sure of the fix. I was unable to locate any at Digikey or Mouser or anywhere else in the USA.

I did find a company at this web address: www.chenyang-ism.com that has CYHME56 units that duplicate the 2AV54. The 2 units cost me around $42 including shipping from Germany. At the time I ordered the units the company would accept a wire transfer of money or you could give them your credit card number.... however I was not able to do this due to my particular bank does not allow this. I was able to arrange the use of Paypal to get the money to them. I received the units about a week later in the mail and they look fine. I am going to keep them in case my K bike breaks. Anyhow the people at Chenyang were very helpful and went out of their way to supply my small order. I highly recommend them, and the cost is very fair.

[GSAddict]

Dana Hager did a great job explaining how to rebuild the HES. I am grateful for his excellent instruction sheet. So, I don't want to be disrespectful in pointing out a slightly better material choice. As I have previously posted, I am not convinced that his wire choice is the best solution.

Wire failures are generally caused by one of the 4 conditions:

1. Casing threshold temperature is too low
2. Corrosion of the wire (yes, solid copper can corrode)
3. Overload of current through the wire.
4. Movement causes breakage.

Dana's solution only addresses the first condition. I am not convinced that there isn't a corrosion problem. One way to avoid the 2nd condition is to use Marine grade wire. That is, tinned wire.

I would use an oversized wire that is tinned along with a high-temp casing (such as TFE or other material). This would address the first 3 conditions, instead of just the 1st one. You only want to do this job once.

It is also important to make sure that the wire you order is solid copper, and not CCA or CCS. CCA and CCS wire is become popular due to the economy.

Having rebuilt quite a few now here are my observations:

1) almost always insulation breakdown due to crystallization.
(the odd one is an actual sensor failure)
2) None showed evidence of corrosion although I use tinned wire as a replacement.
3) Overload is not an issue as the sensor is rated at a MAX of 40mA, any more than that and no more sensor. Typical running current is way less than that.
22ga is plenty and any bigger and the splices bulk up and interfere with installation. My favorite is 24ga teflon. Be sure to use temp rated heat shrink tubing as well.
4) I have never witnessed any wire breakage, always crumbling insulation. I cut every dud apart to find the failure

My $.02 worth based on actual history.