Valve Adjustment on R1100RT

[bobr9]

Doing my first valve adjustment on a (new to me) 99 R1100RT. Am following the "Valve Adj for Dummies" write up. Nothing mentioned in the write up about removing tupperware to get to the engine timing hole, but it appears to me that is what I need to do. Am I missing a shortcut or something, or is that the only way?

Also, I guess the tupperware needs to come off in order to do a throttle body synch as well?

Would appreciate any advise or links on most efficient method for tupperware removal so I don't reinvent the wheel. Thanks

[Ken F]

Yes on both counts, the tupperware needs to come off.
Removing it is pretty self-evident....just seems daunting the first time...not really that bad.

Do NOT use battery powered tools however to remove/install it!!!

Ken

[r11rs94]

Yes they come off pretty easy after a few times. I use two long screw driver type to remove the two size screws, I use the long drives to get the two screws under the windshield.

[bikerfish1100]

grab a piece of cardboard. draw pictures that look something like your fairing parts. place the removed screws in the corresponding locations on the cardboard pics. makes getting the right screws back to their respective destinations.

[layton]

I also have a new to me 96 R1100RT. The gentleman that I bought this bike from was very meticulious about maintenance. He however took it to the dealership for everything. I'm a mechanic by trade so I am "the shop" How often do the valves need to be adjusted on these machines? On my old R80 when she wheezes when I shut her off whe needs her valves run

[happy wanderer]

I also have a new to me 96 R1100RT. The gentleman that I bought this bike from was very meticulious about maintenance. He however took it to the dealership for everything. I'm a mechanic by trade so I am "the shop" How often do the valves need to be adjusted on these machines? On my old R80 when she wheezes when I shut her off whe needs her valves run

Every 6,000 miles. I included the factory maintenance schedule for you. Might come in handy since you will be doing your own maintenance.

[26667]

be patient replacing the tupperware. particularly the tab on the main side panels that fits under the the top front section just ahead of and below the mirror. everything has to be "just so" before it all slips into place.

the screws/ screw holes on the tank never seem to line up perfectly, whether i do it or the guys at the BMW shop do it. But they do go in. Each in their respective holes.

There's a diagram in the little owners' manual that shows all of the fasteners.

[m_stock10506]

grab a piece of cardboard. draw pictures that look something like your fairing parts. place the removed screws in the corresponding locations on the cardboard pics. makes getting the right screws back to their respective destinations.

+1. Poke holes in the cardboard and put the fairing screws into the drawing where they belong, then put them back when done.

First time, you might want to use the timing hole and the OT mark. When you do this, look carefully at the cam chain and sprocket next to the valves. You should see arrows on the sprocket that should be horizontal when you're at TDC. Once you verify that the sprocket is positioned correctly, you can use these marks instead of the timing hole.

Be very gentle when you replace the rubber cover on the timing hole. There are countless threads from guys who pushed the rubber cover into the hole. No worry, they just sit down in the bottom and stay out of the way. Some folks buy the cover from an Airhead bike which is much more substantial and won't get pushed through the hole. Other guys have threaded a wire through the rubber so they can hold onto it while they put it on.

[bikerfish1100]

Hmmm, why bother with the timing hole & OT mark, when the arrows work so beautifully well, and are every bit as accurate?

[r11rs94]

First I've heard of this, is this true???

[bikerfish1100]

is what true?

the cam sprocket arrows? yes, no lie, no myth.

[BC1100S]

...Every 6,000 miles.

Question for the more experienced:

After a number of miles, do the valves seem to "take a set" whereby they do not need adjusting as often?

I have a couple of other bikes (Italian V-twins, one air-cooled and one liquid) which also specify a valve adjustment every 6,000 miles. After two adjustments, I've found that the valves rarely, if ever, are out of spec. On one bike, while I've checked the valve adjustment as per the maintenance schedule, I haven't had to adjust anything for the last 18,000 miles.

Does the same apply to anyone's BMW here?

[sibud]

That has been my experience.

[happy wanderer]

Question for the more experienced:

After a number of miles, do the valves seem to "take a set" whereby they do not need adjusting as often?

I have a couple of other bikes (Italian V-twins, one air-cooled and one liquid) which also specify a valve adjustment every 6,000 miles. After two adjustments, I've found that the valves rarely, if ever, are out of spec. On one bike, while I've checked the valve adjustment as per the maintenance schedule, I haven't had to adjust anything for the last 18,000 miles.

Does the same apply to anyone's BMW here?

Yep. After the first couple of times they do seem to stay put and every 10K KM or 6K miles is more of a "check them" thing. I know some folks don't bother with mileage at all and just check them annually. I like to stick to the odometer readings as much as possible.

[happy wanderer]

is what true?

the cam sprocket arrows? yes, no lie, no myth.

Every time I see this I wonder if the left side is the mirror image? I mean is the arrow pointing in toward the engine horizontally and is the cam sprocket locating pin pointing down as well on the left side?