Need to replace battery on '04 R1150GS

[drcrippen]

Um....like the village idiot, I left something on and now the battery is stone dead. So dead my "Battery Tender" won't work to charge it.

So, it looks like I am going to have to replace the battery and I am not very mechanically inclined, have few tools but I can't get the thing out of the garage. Do I have to take the tank completely off (it's 3/4 full of gas or can I prop it up and get the battery out that way? I found one cite for an R1150 that said I could and another that says I can't.

Is there any way to get the battery charged up some other way than the better tender?

Thanks in advance.

[MOTORRADMIKE]

1/ We've all done that, don't feel like an idiot.

2/ Tenders sense the voltage to which they are connected and won't start charging unless there is a reasonable voltage present which your battery is likely below.

3/ To answer your charging question. Yes you can charge it with a regular battery charger for a bit, then the tender should work. I'd give it an hour on the regular charger. Then apply the tender and hope for the best.

This battery may not be toast yet.
I tend to try to get the most out of batteries although I don't treat them with kid gloves.
If you want to know how to treat them with kid gloves read up on what GlobalRider has to say.

Edit: 4/ Welcome to the forums!

[drcrippen]

Thanks, I'll get a "real" battery charger tomorrow, give it a try and let you know.

[Bmandiego]

I'm not sure what type of battery you have, but most do not perform as well after they lose all their charge once or twice.
I'm looking forward to the answer of this. Can he remove the battery without removing the tank? I know it's a pain on my 1100rt, but I thought the 1150 and gs were different/ more accessible.

[PETDOC]

Do I have to take the tank completely off (it's 3/4 full of gas or can I prop it up and get the battery out that way? I found one cite for an R1150 that said I could and another that says I can't.

Thanks in advance.

I've got the same bike. You might be able to get the battery out without totally removing the tank, but it would be very difficult. Even to attempt to do this you will have to detach everything you'd detach to remove the tank--so why not just pull it off and make life easier.
I use to believe you need a nearly empty tank to get it off, but have since removed mine several times when full. A little harder, but not much. Actually getting it back on without crunching your fingers under the front of the tank is the real issue when it's full.
My technique with a nearly full to full tank is to place a wadded big towel or full roll of paper towels(or toilet paper) on top of the battery. Place the rubber connections on the front of the tank-don't leave them on the rear of the faring as it is much harder to get things lined up that way. I set the tank down a small distance from the front with the rear resting on the towel. I then change my grip. I reach over the tank placing my hands under the base of the 2 big lobes near the front of the tank. I lift the front of the tank up and slide it forward til correctly positioned. Focus on first positioning the two inner "C" shaped structures on the inner sides of the tank on the protruding rubber covered knobs that project laterally from the frame, then focus on getting the front rubber connectors aligned correctly. I don't worry about dragging the back of the tank forward as it is resting on the towel and can slide without damaging the paint. Now lift the back of the tank a tad, pull out the towel and lower the rear right arm where it attaches to the frame. Be careful, if not correctly aligned you can pick off one of the washers that are on either side of the large rubber grommet inside the rear arm. Put the bolt back in that secures the tank to the frame. Attach the overflow and carbon canister lines correctly (wrong way will create vacuum in tank and can collapse it), electrical connector and fuel lines. Actually I do the last 3 things before pulling the towel because I find it easier to reconnect my fuel lines with the added room provided by the towel. Lastly, check your right-sided throttle cable where it inserts on the top of the bracket right below the tank. It often is pulled from its seat a fraction and causes major headaches when you try to start the bike.

[Bmandiego]

lol, I beat your post by 5 seconds.

[Bmandiego]

I've got the same bike. You might be able to get the battery out without totally removing the tank, but it would be very difficult. Even to attempt to do this you will have to detach everything you'd detach to remove the tank--so why not just pull it off and make life easier.
I use to believe you need a nearly empty tank to get it off, but have since removed mine several times when full. A little harder, but not much. Actually getting it back on without crunching your fingers under the front of the tank is the real issue when it's full.
My technique with a nearly full to full tank is to place a wadded big towel or full roll of paper towels(or toilet paper) on top of the battery. Place the rubber connections on the front of the tank-don't leave them on the rear of the faring as it is much harder to get things lined up that way. I set the tank down a small distance from the front with the rear resting on the towel. I then change my grip. I reach over the tank placing my hands under the base of the 2 big lobes near the front of the tank. I lift the front of the tank up and slide it forward til correctly positioned. Focus on first positioning the two inner "C" shaped structures on the inner sides of the tank on the protruding rubber covered knobs that project laterally from the frame, then focus on getting the front rubber connectors aligned correctly. I don't worry about dragging the back of the tank forward as it is resting on the towel and can slide without damaging the paint. Now lift the back of the tank a tad, pull out the towel and lower the rear right arm where it attaches to the frame. Be careful, if not correctly aligned you can pick off one of the washers that are on either side of the large rubber grommet inside the rear arm. Put the bolt back in that secures the tank to the frame. Attach the overflow and carbon canister lines correctly (wrong way will create vacuum in tank and can collapse it), electrical connector and fuel lines. Actually I do the last 3 things before pulling the towel because I find it easier to reconnect my fuel lines with the added room provided by the towel. Lastly, check your right-sided throttle cable where it inserts on the top of the bracket right below the tank. It often is pulled from its seat a fraction and causes major headaches when you try to start the bike.

Holy cannoli. Why don't they put the battery on a sliding tray?

[drcrippen]

Well, the bike starts after having it on the battery tender overnight and all day today but the battery doesn't seem to be terribly energetic. Kind of a slow turnover, but it did start quickly. I'm going to leave the tender on for a few days now and see what happens.

The red "attention" light (!) is now on. Anyone know a way to get it extinguished?

[DARKCLOUD]

First go down to the local auto shop and get one of those little siphon kits. Put the suction end into the lower lobe on one side of the tank and siphon it out, then change sides of the tank and empty it to get a little less weight out of the tank. Find a piece of scrap 2X4 about six inches long or less. Lifting up and forward raise the tank. Place the 2X4 on the ABS module,lower the tank and remove the battery or hook on a charger. This tips will make it easier to remove the tank.

If you only want to hook a regular battery charger on, pull off the starter cover to access the positive terminal.

Jon