I am somewhat "mechanically" inclined but electrically all I know is - RED wire "power" / BLACK wire "ground". You see where this is going
Basically I want to wire up my GPS to a switched power ÔÇô I read and searched for ideas and nothing (to me anyway) is clear.
Can one of you take me through the steps / or location for me to find a ÔÇ£hotÔÇØ lead so I can finish this otherwise simple mod.
Thanks in advance.
~jim
it would be helpful if you tell us what bike you are looking to mount this GPS on to.
First though... are you sure you want switched power for a GPS? Every time you stop for gas, etc, the GPS will turn off. So doing any kind of searches on the side of the road require having the bike ON. Not really that much of a drain on the battery for short periods of time. But if can be a problem if left on the bike for longer periods of time.
For oilheads, a lot of people use the diagnostic plug. Or the tail light. On my R1100GS, i just used the plug for the BMW alarm system that was never installed.
if you are talking about an R1200, generally folks tap into the parking light bulb in the headlight. BMW makes a kit that makes it really easy to do.
Airheads are so simple, that i won't offer a suggestion.
(but since this was in the OILHEADS section, i'm thinking that is what you are talking about)
Hope that helps.
sdc
Somers, NY
Just enjoying the ride.......
yeah - forgot to post what I ride - sorry. I have a 04 R1150RS.
One of the reasons I wanted it switched is I only get to ride once a week (travel for a living) so just weekend / daily jaunts for now. So the bike sits throughout the week - I hate to think the battery is supplying juice while its idle.
I thought about the rear tail-light but trying to get at it is a pain - was hoping for something more accessible (call me lazy) .
I do read that very little is available on the RS to simply "tap" into. Ugh.
Heated grips are switched.
Ron
91 K75RT
You have not told us what brand/model GPS you have.Originally Posted by Jambx
yeah - forgot to post what I ride - sorry. I have a 04 R1150RS.
One of the reasons I wanted it switched is I only get to ride once a week (travel for a living) so just weekend / daily jaunts for now. So the bike sits throughout the week - I hate to think the battery is supplying juice while its idle.
I thought about the rear tail-light but trying to get at it is a pain - was hoping for something more accessible (call me lazy) .
I do read that very little is available on the RS to simply "tap" into. Ugh.
If it is a motorcycle specific model like the Garmin Zumo series they will NOT draw current when the GPS is turned off. Wire it directly to the battery.
Another place to "steal" switched power for a GPS is the instrument lamp circuit. Max. current should be no more than 2A
'
Ufda happens..........
It's all about the details.
The question of switched or un-switched power for a GPS comes up now and again. Several years ago when I got my first Zumo I had the same quandry so I did some tests to separate fact from fiction on the question GPS and cradle current draw.
For anyone who cares or is incurably curious as I am here are some in situ actual current test results for a 1996 R110RT and Zumo 660.
**All results are in milliamps (mA) or .XXX of an amp.**
1) Motorcycle only: The motorcycle itself draws 2.33mA with the ignition turned off. Most of this is the quartz clock in the fairing and the rest would just be leakage current through the ECU and all the other electronics on board.
2) Motorcycle, Garmin Zumo 660 Cradle only:
Once you connect the cradle to power the current draw is 2.43mA. This is 0.1mA more than the above Motorcycle only test.
3) Motorcycle, Garmin Zumo 660 Cradle, and Zumo 660 unit locked into cradle:
At startup there is a short but significant inrush current of around 2.5 AMPS to 3.0 AMPS but almost immediately the readings drop to 250mA and bounce from 250 mA to 305mA as the firmware loads maps etc. Once the unit is up and running it continues to bounce from around 250mA to 312mA which is likely because it is searching for a satellite
.
I would guesstimate average current draw is around 280mA when the unit is just running and doing it's thing. Actually that is a fair bit of juice IMO. Switching bluetooth on and off with no devices connected (would draw more power obviously since transmitting is power consumptive) show a mere 2mA to 3mA increase (ON) and decrease (OFF).
4) Turn GPS off but leave it in the Cradle:
This results in a current draw of 3.17mA. So this means the gps is pulling 84mA even when it is OFF but in the cradle. I have to admit this surprised me.
5) Finally, I removed the GPS from the cradle and the current draw once again fell to 2.33mA as in test 1.
CONCLUSION:
1) .1 mA is bugger all. So having the cradle connected to power all the time is 1/233rd worse than just leaving your battery connected to your bike (clock) all the time. NO BIG DEAL.
2) Leaving the GPS in the cradle adds just under 1mA to the power draw from your battery. NO BIG DEAL but take it out anyway or someone will steal it. :
3) Removing your GPS from it's cradle will save you 1mA but better yet, it might save you unit!
***Your application may vary, all standard disclaimers apply!
MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
'81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT
Good to know, Thanks!
I'm curious as where are you going to mount the GPS on your 1150RS. I also have this bike.
While the bike is sitting idle, why not just use a battery tender and all your worries will vanish and your battery will be fully charged when you hop on it for a ride. This will solve everything! Have fun.
If you don't leave your GPS in the cradle and you shouldn't because it shortens the life of the springs on the connector pins in the cradle, the cradle itself draws only 0.1mA of current.
How long would it take to discharge a 19 AMP HOUR battery? 791 days... not something to even worry about.
MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
'81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT
Hey Spence - sorry for the delay in responding. Here is my set up. I took advantage of one of the fork bolts for the GPS mount (cut a little in the black plastic trim piece to make it look nice nice) and Triple Clamp Pinch Bolt for the Valentine 1 Radar Detector. I used RAM mounts for both.
Why I went with these locations is I wanted a uninterrupted view of all my lights and gauges.
The RAM mount I used for the Radar Detector (on the right) is canted so it is right of the Temp and Fuel Gauge - also allows for the V1's rear detector to be as far right of me as possible for the sneaky guys in uniform coming up from my 6!
Be Safe,
~Jim
another view
OK, Thanks, that looks doable. Didn't know what was under that black plastic piece. I've seen on the Ram Mount website a ball mount attached to the clutch/brake resevoir cover. Take the old cover off and screw this on. Not sure if they have one that fits the 1150RS.
Spence
I have never been a fan of using the tops of the brake / clutch resevoirs - I think this is a much cleaner approch and all the gauges are still in clear view.
They have them and they are a bad idea. Clutch and brake reservoir covers were never designed to hold the weight of a GPS. Leaking gaskets and fluid migrating up the screws are common on these setups. Also, the covers are a maintenance point. Every year.
Avoid like the plague. Just my opinion of course.
MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
'81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT
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