Stall at highway speeds

[rms000]

I have a 2004 R1150RT with 21k. It has been regulary maintained and for the most part runs great. The other day I was riding on the highway at 70 mph and the engine stalled.

i pulled to side of the road and it wouldn't start. After waiting about 45 minutes, it stared right up and I haven't had any problems since.

Any ideas and suggestions.
Rick

[bikerfish1100]

HES failure?
(do a search, you'll find plenty)

[rms000]

What does HES mean>

[awagnon]

HES failures are less common on the 1150RT compared with the 1100RT.

Do you still have the charcoal canister? If so, it could be clogged with gasoline which results in a vaccume in the tank causing the engine to die. It then starts after a while when the vaccume dissipates. If it happens again, open the gas tank and see if you hear a rush of air into the tank. If so, do a canisterectomy.

[henzilla]

What does HES mean>

Hall effect sensor...located behind alternator covers lower pulley
It's the ignition "trigger" off the crankshaft

[stagewex]

How do you do a "canisterectomy"? I get that whoosh all the time when I open the tank and not only when it's warm/hot outside or with a full tank.

mike wex
1996 r1100rt

[mneblett]

How do you do a "canisterectomy"? I get that whoosh all the time when I open the tank and not only when it's warm/hot outside or with a full tank.

mike wex
1996 r1100rt

First -- the "why":

The fuel tank vents through a hose to atmosphere via the charcoal canister, which removes and stores the fuel fumes.

Also, as the fuel tank is emptied by the fuel pump, replacement air comes from the atmosphere through the canister back into the tank. The fact that you are getting a vacuum means either the charcoal canister or the hose between the tank and the canister is blocked -- usually from an over-filled tank dumping liquid fuel in to the vent line and then the fuel turning the activated charcoal into a line-blocking slurry.

Second: The "what":

There are two hoses from the fuel tank: the vent hose to/from the canister, and the rain drain from the annulus around the tank filler. The rain drain is routed to just above the ground behind the right footpeg plate. The vent hose follows much the same route until back around the right throttle body, where it continues rearward to the canister.

The canister has three hoses: the tank vent hose, a hose open to the atmosphere, and a third hose that crosses to the left side of the bike to meet a solenoid valve. When the engine computer determines the "right" conditions exist, it opens the solenoid valve so that the fuel fumes stored in the canister can be purged from the canister by sucking them through the third hose into the throttle bodies to be burned in the engine.

Third: The "how":

Disconnect the three hoses from the canister.

Remove the cainster retaining bolt, slide it forward off the hook at the other end, and pitch it.

Remove the atmospheric vent hose -- no longer needed.

Re-route the tank vent hose from the canister to the same place as the outlet of the rain drain hose. Use some of the excess atmospheric vent hose if the tank vent hose isn't long enough.

Lastly -- and most important -- block off the purge path from the canister to the throttle bodies, so you don't have a vacuum leak each time the computer opens the purge solenoid valve. You could block off the hose leading to the solenoid valve, block off the hose from the solenoid valve to the throttle body, or -- my preference -- clean up all the excess hose by removing all of the purge hose sections and placing a rubber cap over the vacuum nipple under the throttle body. The rubber caps are common to many BMWs, including early K-bikes -- normally a standard stock item at any dealer. You can leave the solenoid valve in place with it's electrical connector engaged, or remove the valve and tape up the connector to prevent water entry. Easier to just leave the valve in place.

HTH!