/6 front axle assembly

[stucknarut]

I took my front tire off to change the brake rotor, but didn't pay close attention to the order of things on the axle or take a pic. I've got a bushing that's about 3/4" and a spacer that's about 1/8". Not sure which side of the tire they go on. Can someone tell me whether they go on the left or right side of the axle, or better yet post a pic?

[donbmw]

The 3/4 space goes between the wheel and LH fork. The only other spacer I can think of is the washer under the Nut.

[stucknarut]

Ok thanks. Is the washer under the nut very thick? This is definitely not an average washer, figured it was an extra spacer or shim.

[donbmw]

It is thicker than a normal washer.

[stucknarut]

Thanks, back together again.

Follow-up question: the brakes are really lousy. I've got a /5 with a /6 front end, under-tank master cylinder. With a new rotor and fresh pads on the front and the brake fully engaged I can still push the bike forward slightly. Is that normal? Any not-too-expensive suggestions to improve it?

[20774]

Tim -

You probably need to align the pads with the rotor surface. There's an eccentric that can be turned which provides some alignment capability. On the bottom side of the caliper is a big cap nut. when removed, a spring will fall out and if you look inside you'll see a largish plug with a slot. Using something wider than a screwdriver, twist that plug while turning the wheel. You'll find a spot where the disk runs freely. The final check is to use a sharpie and put radial marks on the rotor. Turn the wheel fast and squeeze the brake. The pads should evenly wipe away the sharpie marks. Turn the plug until you get that situation.

When adjusted correctly, the single ATE can do a pretty decent job at stopping the bike. You might also want to consider changing the rubber brake line...which will mean a rebleed of the system. The old line maybe be flexing under brake pressure due to fluid inside the line. Some will suggest going to stainless brake lines which can help. But first trying getting the stock system as best as it can be and go from there.

[stucknarut]

Thanks! I'm familiar with the eccentric bolt (I just had the front end apart to change fork seals and springs, and alignment) but wasn't sure how to properly set it. I know, RTFM. The good news is it's got a stainless line already. I bled the system with fresh fluid as well. Would a master cylinder rebuild possibly help, or just keeps it from leaking?

[Darryl Cainey]

If it leaks - rebuild it!

If the lever feels spongie - you have air in the lines - rebleed the system.

when you have the excentric adjusted right, the complete brake pad touches the surface.


Use a piece of chalk and coat the surface of the rotor, adjust the excentric so the pad cleans off the chalk evenly when you move the wheel with the brake pad dragging.

[stucknarut]

It doesn't leak anymore, after I replaced the o-ring under the reservoir. Unfortunately not in time to save the paint on the frame underneath it . Thus turning a .50 cent problem into a far more expensive one. PO, you fail.