2009 R1200RT 6,000 mile service

[Ridefar]

What part of the 6,000 mile service is really necessary? Will the valves need adjustment or does it just amount to a"clearance check"? If I can do some of it, will the dealer do piece meal portions of the 6K mile "service"? The final drive has a drain plug but no fill plug(brilliant), how does one manage to get the 180cc of super duper ultra mega lube in there? If I have to ride 90 miles to the dealer, how can they check cold valve clearance on the same day? I don't do things half-a$$ed so would that mean a sleep over? Is the dealer service stamp for this in the owners manual an important documentation for a future owner? Thanks guys!

[martyhill]

What part of the 6,000 mile service is really necessary? Will the valves need adjustment or does it just amount to a"clearance check"? If I can do some of it, will the dealer do piece meal portions of the 6K mile "service"? The final drive has a drain plug but no fill plug(brilliant), how does one manage to get the 180cc of super duper ultra mega lube in there? If I have to ride 90 miles to the dealer, how can they check cold valve clearance on the same day? I don't do things half-a$$ed so would that mean a sleep over? Is the dealer service stamp for this in the owners manual an important documentation for a future owner? Thanks guys!

Why not say "I'm in ....and could use some help" It's all easy once you know how. To answer the valve question, they don't worry about it being cold!

[ExGMan]

I think you will find lots of information in the tech library (on the forum here: http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=44)

You'll find lots of pictorials and information/tips to help you get maintenance jobs done.

As to the question of a cold engine for valve adjustments, some dealers want the bike to sit overnight, and some will just let it sit in the shop for an hour before doing the valves.

In any case, you should find many answers regarding your questions if you read through the DIY library, including the perplexing question of how to fill the final drive. It's in there. As a sidelight to that, I found a tip on another site regarding a useful bottle for putting FD fluid into the appropriate place: http://www.sallybeauty.com/color-app...ml?cgid=Supp02

Have fun!

[David13]

Check the library, check other forums, check youtube or the internet itself. Also a good diy video is Jim Von Baden.
He sells several, probably on his own website, but also on advrider.
Now, as to that bottle. Beemerboneyard sells it. However, it ain't easy to use. I got one and found on the 08 that you must allow the fluid to slowly flow down and out, and slowly seep past the gears and into the drive box. Otherwise, the entire 180 comes whooshing back out onto the floor.
dc

[marchyman]

What part of the 6,000 mile service is really necessary?

Little of it or all of it, depending upon your point of view. I like to know of possible problems before they turn ugly. Giving the bike a once over during a service helps. Since I don't get my oil tested I feel that changing it according to the manufacturers recommendation is a good thing, too.

Will the valves need adjustment or does it just amount to a"clearance check"?

You may get away without adjusting the valves... but how would you know if you didn't check them first. The added labor to adjust after checking is measured in minutes. If you are a perfectionist you'll adjust them every time so they are exactly equal and perfect.

The final drive has a drain plug but no fill plug(brilliant), how does one manage to get the 180cc of super duper ultra mega lube in there?

It has a fill plug. I'm guessing you don't know where it is. Hint: pull the wheel. It's on the back of the FD.

If I have to ride 90 miles to the dealer, how can they check cold valve clearance on the same day?

Cold doesn't mean ice cold. It doesn't even mean ambient temperature. Per the specification it means less than 35 ??C (95 ??F). Your valve train will be that temperature or less within an hour of shutting down the bike.

Is the dealer service stamp for this in the owners manual an important documentation for a future owner? Thanks guys!

I've never maintained a bike for the NEXT guy. I scribble the date and sign in my book when I do a service so I have an on-bike record. My main record is the binder I keep in my home office.

[David13]

Very good question, and answer.
But while the dealers stamp is not necessary, I do believe there is one essential step, listed on the maintenance form from BMW, that is often overlooked by the diyer.
That is checking the codes.
I do not know if Jim Von Baden (probably most use his dvd) does the code check, but I would suspect he does.
That will help you know if something is going to go wrong before it goes wrong.
And, as we know, there is only one way for the diyer to check the codes. (And it won't hurt to reset the 'service' message)
dc

[marchyman]

But while the dealers stamp is not necessary, I do believe there is one essential step, listed on the maintenance form from BMW, that is often overlooked by the diyer.
That is checking the codes.

Checking the codes should be the first step of every service. And clearing the codes should be the last step. Sometimes you will generate codes during the service. This is normal. By clearing the codes as the last step you can be sure that any code you read next service actually happened during normal operation.

[RoboRider]

I do all my own maintenance. Between what is on the forum, and JVB's DVD, you have all you will need. If you need time to get studied up, then change the oil and then study up.

GS911 will read your codes.

You ought to say where you live. Many will gladly have you come by for some tutoring. I soon have to do a complete service on my RT, including the final drive, alternator belts, and brakes including pads. A good way to learn is to watch someone else.

[deilenberger]

To answer the valve question, they don't worry about it being cold!

And that's quite unfortunate. Some dealers DO.. many put a fan in front of it for a while and figure that cools it off enough. The ones that don't - I can unfailingly improve on their valve adjustments by doing it right (and I've cured a number of buzzy R12's that way..)

[Shaun09]

You can get the final drive (and gearbox) lubricant (Castrol SAF-XO) for under half the price from many if not most BMW automobile parts departments by bringing them your own clean container. It's factory specified for use in the open differentials. Around $23/liter.