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Thread: Helicoil or Time-Sert

  1. #1
    Sir Darby Darryl Cainey's Avatar
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    Helicoil or Time-Sert

    Well after 503,000 miles and 145 oil changes I stripped the threads in one of the oilfilter cover holes in the engine block.

    I know it's a 6X1mm thread but I don't know if I should use a Helicoil or Time-Sert
    to repair the thread.

    Has anyone done this repair?

    It's the hole that is the most facing the back of the bike which is the easiest to get at. Can still do it in the frame, I think?

    Anybody, anybody?
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  2. #2
    '92 R100GS '81 R100/t brittrunyon's Avatar
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    The lower front hole stripped on mine a couple of years ago.

    With the engine still in the frame I was able to "delicately" drill out the hole and insert a Helicoil. It continues to be secure and working just fine today.
    I used Helicoil because I have used them for many years and they have always worked for me, when done properly.

    I have never used a Time-sert, a lot of people have and say they are superior to Helicoils.
    Maybe I'll try Time-sert the next time the need arises.

    If this is your first time for placing a Helicoil
    take your time
    measure depth
    get comfortable
    use good bit
    drill straight
    remember the engine block is "soft"
    read the instructions
    There's probably a "How to" video on Youtube to watch?


    Good Luck with the repair.
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  3. #3
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    There are a number of brands of thread inserts & they vary in material,length,thickness and so on. It really is beyond brand choice at times & based on who has what gets you going if in a road breakdown or what fits into the repair area size/material wise. I often lean toward the "serts" as they don't really need an insert tool for each size as do helicoils but still, its not so much which is the best product as the one that works for the situation. Places like Fastenall often have a high delivery fee attached to getting one small piece so look around the net or retail wholesale scene for various sources.

  4. #4
    Just me rad's Avatar
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    Another comment, if it is your first time; find a piece of material, an old casting, etc, and practice. The kit should come with enough inserts so you can waste one or two practicing.

    As far as which one; IÔÇÖve only used Helicoil; so, IÔÇÖm no help selecting which one to use.

    Good luck.

  5. #5
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    stripped bolt

    Why don't you tap it for an 8mm bolt?

  6. #6
    Sir Darby Darryl Cainey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by felaw View Post
    Why don't you tap it for an 8mm bolt?
    Good idea, going to talk to Jim fretz to see what he would do.
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  7. #7
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    Not having done one of these (knock on wood!), what's the difference between doing a helicoil/timesert versus tapping to 8mm? My point is to do a process which gives you options or do the one thing that is "less destructive" first. Does tapping to 8mm preclude doing a standard helicoil or that you have to go to the next higher size helicoil? What if you do a helicoil/timesert first and if that doesn't work, can you then go to 8mm after that? I'm just wondering if there's a good order to these types of repairs?
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  8. #8
    Sir Darby Darryl Cainey's Avatar
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    After I felt the stock 6X1mm bolt starting to strip I stopped tightening.
    It was the last bolt so I am going to see if it leaks first.

    I can't remember if this bolt hole is a blind hole or is it a through hole?

    If it is a blind hole Time-Serts may not be the answer as they have to go .250 deeper because of the design of the tap.

    Going to do more research!
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  9. #9
    Benchwrenching PGlaves's Avatar
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    The main difference between the two types (among others) is the thickness of the insert. I prefer a Timesert or Keensert where there is plenty of space to drill and tap the larger hole needed compared to a Helicoil. Given a good tap job, the strength is proportional to the circumference of the outer threads so a joint with a thicker insert is stronger.

    But, this application is a very low stress application and a Helicoil will work just fine.

    Drill very straight and steady.
    Tap even more straight and steady than that.
    Make sure the insert is left flush or recessed slightly.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
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  10. #10
    John. jstrube's Avatar
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    There is another brand out there & I buy them at NAPA. They are called PermaCoil. WHat I like about the permacoil is the installation kit. The insertion tool is steel, not plastic like the Helicoil, they have a plastic guide for inserting it & so far, I have had great luck with them. I used them to repair the windshield brackets on my R1200RT, a valve cover on my buddies R1150RT & other stuff.
    John.

  11. #11
    Benchwrenching PGlaves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JStrube View Post
    There is another brand out there & I buy them at NAPA. They are called PermaCoil. WHat I like about the permacoil is the installation kit. The insertion tool is steel, not plastic like the Helicoil, they have a plastic guide for inserting it & so far, I have had great luck with them. I used them to repair the windshield brackets on my R1200RT, a valve cover on my buddies R1150RT & other stuff.
    Good info. Thanks
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
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  12. #12
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    You all are helping make my point, which could go on for a long time as there are lots of brands and they all have their charts what with a variety of thicknesses,threads,metals,lengths,insertion procedures.Some are even for wood, let alone various metals. The solid inserts vs. the helicoil can be done in some situations with a simple nut on a bolt/homemade insertion device. If your a newbie at the procedures or making decisions about thread repairs the cost of tearing it up may dictate getting a pro to look & making sure that pro actually has a feel for the various choices. Just their being a great wrench doesn't always give you a "machinist approach" to a thread repair situation.
    Another technique that can work for certain situations is to screw in a larger threaded bolt,cut it off flush, then drill it out to tap drill size for the thread that replaces it. I have done this using various means to retain the stub/sacrificial bolt that's screwed in 1st such as brazing,red locktite,etc.. The main thing is to have a plan that's the least destructive or chancy repair to what might be an expensive/unobtanium damaged part and that results in a strong thread for the fixed area.

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