Crankcase Vent Maintenance?

[brittrunyon]

I believe I'm correct in thinking this is the crankcase vent.
What has happened over the last year, is more & more oil is seeping out of the vent hole next to the dipstick. With synthetic oil there was a lot, so I'm now back to dino.
I try & keep the oil level at about half way bwt the upper & lower fill marks on the dipstick but still it "oozes".
Do these need maintenance?
How does it come out?

The culprit:

[mneblett]

Sorry, that is not the crankcase vent -- it is the vent path from the later R100's fuel vapor management system, which on your bike has apparently been removed and the crankcase portion plugged.

The crankcase breather is on the other side of the starter, toward the rear, under the metal cover. It has a large-diameter hose which goes forward, and then returns to the front of the air box. Inside the airbox the hose splits, with one end going to each intake tube to send oil crankcase vapors to the cylinders to be burned.

I would first look to see whether the breather path to the intakes has been blocked off, then pull the breather valve cover (be prepared to replace the cover gasket) and verify the valve is operating and the vent path from the crankcase up to the valve is not blocked.

Let us know what you find, and we'll go from there.

[brittrunyon]

Thanks for clearing up & identifying the "that is not the crankcase vent".
I will investigate the "crankcase breather " today.

Now I'm wondering
Does this have anything to do with the oil oozing from the hole next to the dip stick?
Muchas Gracias.........

[tvrla]

Unless everything's been cleaned up, it doesn't appear to be. As long as the hose isn't split and is sealing off the crankcase, the mess won't be coming from there.

Usually just taking a look will tell you what the problem is. It's either a split breather hose, loose clamp or housing.

[mneblett]

Now I'm wondering
Does this have anything to do with the oil oozing from the hole next to the dip stick?

Likely -- the hole next to the dipstick is a drain from the starter cavity. Oil from here suggests the crankcase breather hose, between the breather cover and the airbox, is split and releasing vapors into the starter cavity.

[brittrunyon]

Likely -- the hole next to the dipstick is a drain from the starter cavity. Oil from here suggests the crankcase breather hose, between the breather cover and the airbox, is split and releasing vapors into the starter cavity.

This is what I'm thinking........
Visually the breather hose looks intake & clean. I can't seem to find where the oil comes from but I'm still looking.

(I had cleaned the area prior to taking the photo.)

There is one small spilt where it inserts to the air box.
Not going to break it down until I have a replacement hose & gasket for the breather valve cover.
I'm wondering now what the breather valve looks like?

Thanks to All

[lmo1131]

I'm wondering now what the breather valve looks like?

All lot like this...



opp. side


And definitely read over this >> http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/oilsketch.htm

[47512]

That is the late style breather valve, the early one was a phonolic disc with a spring.

The late style valve will retrofit but the body of the old valve has to be removed.

[brittrunyon]

I ordered the breather hose to repair the present one that is split, and gasket so I can take a look at the valve.
I assuming there is a certain amount of cleaning/maintenance I can do to the valve to insure that it functions properly, so as not to buy a new one, with out first inspecting it.
Thanks.........

[20774]

Not sure if it's necessary for your model bike, but when I replaced the breather valve on my /7 from the round disk to the reed valve, it was important to consider the orientation of the reed valve relative to the cover. If you end up replacing it, you should note its orientation. On the /7, it had to be oriented so that the screw holding the reed down was in about the 5 o'clock position or pointing to the right foot peg. This was so that the cover would fit properly and not hold the reed closed as well as give a nice "easy" path through the valve into the hoses. It probably wouldn't make sense for the oil mist to have to turn 180 degrees after exiting the valve to enter the downstream hose.

[mneblett]

I assuming there is a certain amount of cleaning/maintenance I can do to the valve to insure that it functions properly, so as not to buy a new one, with out first inspecting it.

Good move to not buy one until checking. It is a simple reed valve, i.e., a thin, flexible plate held down at one end, with a travel-limiting curved plate above it. About the only thing in the valve that could fail would be for the reed to snap off -- but I've never heard of that happening.