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Thread: Another one of those rebuild stories R50/5

  1. #91
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    As you can see things are moving right along. Handlebars installed along with most of it's connections. The freshly sand blasted started cover looks great.
    I'm really looking forward to /finally/ getting the pistons and cylinders back from CycleWorks.
    Question: I've noticed on other threads that people apply a blue sealing goo to the cylinders and gasket when put them back on. What is this stuff? Any recommendations?
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  2. #92
    Luddite Looney wecm31's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by barrettnjones View Post
    Question: I've noticed on other threads that people apply a blue sealing goo to the cylinders and gasket when put them back on. What is this stuff? Any recommendations?
    When I put the cylinders on the engine, I used a very, very, thin smear of Drei Bond (aka Three Bond, Yamabond, Hylomar, etc.) on the engine side of the base seal.
    Be sure you don't put so much on that it plugs the oil path around the cylinder studs, the holes are used to circulate oil to the head.

    For the head to cylinder seal, just the head gasket, no sealant required.
    Gerald P
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  3. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by wecm31 View Post
    When I put the cylinders on the engine, I used a very, very, thin smear of Drei Bond (aka Three Bond, Yamabond, Hylomar, etc.) on the engine side of the base seal.
    Be sure you don't put so much on that it plugs the oil path around the cylinder studs, the holes are used to circulate oil to the head.

    For the head to cylinder seal, just the head gasket, no sealant required.
    Thanks for the info!! I'll look into getting whichever sealant I have available.
    Good to know about keeping those Cylinder head holes clean and clear!

  4. #94
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    Installing the new air filter and closing up the top of the engine.
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  5. #95
    Monza Blue 1974 R90/6
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    +1 on a thin layer of Hylomar Blue at the base of the cylinder, base gasket, and block and on the pushrod seals (inside and out).

    Lots of opinions, many, many, on the best sealant for these areas, including some advocates for none at all (dry).

    Everybody seems to agree on really clean surfaces and thin applications.

    Sucks to have it all together and weep oil, so probably a good place to spend a few extra dollars on a fresh tube of good stuff.

    Your bike looks great so far.

    Barron

  6. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barron_Williams View Post
    +1 on a thin layer of Hylomar Blue at the base of the cylinder, base gasket, and block and on the pushrod seals (inside and out).

    Lots of opinions, many, many, on the best sealant for these areas, including some advocates for none at all (dry).

    Everybody seems to agree on really clean surfaces and thin applications.

    Sucks to have it all together and weep oil, so probably a good place to spend a few extra dollars on a fresh tube of good stuff.

    Your bike looks great so far.
    Thanks for the advice and the encouraging words. Definitely a good idea to add a little while it's open.

  7. #97
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    The new seat came in the mail today from Corbin! I really liked the look of Gunfighter. Here's a picture of it with the tank on. Man, I can't believe it's already June and I'm not riding! I never figured that the pistons and cylinders would be the last thing I'd be waiting on. I'f I'm luck they'll arrive by mail by the end of the week. And if I'm super lucky I can spend the weekend figuring out how they come together.

    How's the new seat look?
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  8. #98
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    Profile:
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  9. #99
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    Got another package of man jewelry today.

    It's amazing how well these parts clean up when properly cleaned. I'm not saying that it looks brand new but these engine parts have had a tough life and if I end up looking this good when I'm 41 years old I'm going to be a happy young man. (in my mind I'm still in my twenties)
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  10. #100
    Registered User RINTY's Avatar
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    Beautiful seat and jugs! You're on the home stretch now.

    I've always liked those Gunfighters.
    Rinty

    "When you don't know where you're going, any road will get you there."

  11. #101
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    Piston went on without any trouble. I've heard horror stories about the cir clip being a huge PITA but three out of four went back in with hard pressure from my thumbs.
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  12. #102
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    I'm having trouble getting that last ring compressed enough to slide the piston back in the jug. I've read on the interwebs that some have used the metal straps that hold the driveshaft boot on to compress the ring enough. My pistons are too small for that strap.

    ??????

    Suggests would be helpful oh wise MOA community.
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  13. #103
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    I'm sure they make a large enough garden variety hose clamp that will do the same job. I recall reading that Duane Ausherman talked about a technique for using the fingers to squeeze the rings in while using the knee to slide the piston on. It's just necessary to get the ring to a minimum diameter so that the chamfer of the cylinder takes care of sliding it home.

    Any base sealant on that? I think it's customary to use some even if you have the earlier type shims.
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  14. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    Any base sealant on that? I think it's customary to use some even if you have the earlier type shims.
    Thanks for the tip. My fingers just rant doing it for that last ring. My Clymer manual suggests a 'ring compression clamp.' Well isn't that nice, another special tool. I'll just have to check out the old hardware store for the garden variety clamp.

    As for sealant I've got some Threebond to lightly smear in the engine casing.
    Because of the year model of my /5 ('72) am I correct in thinking that not only was there not a big O-ring at the base of the jug but also an absence of the two top rubber gaskets that go at the base of the two top studs?

    Any other suggestion about how to compress that final ring would be welcomed.
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  15. #105
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    Here's a pic of tapered ring compressor. Looks like you've got the gapless 2nd ring and the three piece oil ring. Hard to finger those into the cylinder. Possible to jury rig something similar, but considering time and material, it's usually cheaper to buy or borrow. You're doing a great job.
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