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Thread: Pictorial--2002 1150RT Spline lube

  1. #31
    Registered User Olsensan's Avatar
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    Looking at the same wire from behind and below the battery tray.
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  2. #32
    Registered User Olsensan's Avatar
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    This is the gear shift indicator cable removed. I have advanced you 20 photos in order to keep this less confusing. I had to remove the entire subframe from the bike because I needed to straighten the bent tabs referred to earlier. This made un-routing the wire much easier. Ideally, you can remove the pins from the connector, I'll dig to find that procedure for you. In some other cases, the connector was simply cut off and re-connected later and it it was not routed this way again. I would suggest you route it differently too when reassembling.
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  3. #33
    Registered User Olsensan's Avatar
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    Removed the ground cable and raised the battery tray just hight enough to clear the posts and screw heads.
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  4. #34
    Registered User Olsensan's Avatar
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    Ready to remove transmission, rear has been raised, rear brake master cylinder are secured and out of the way. The clutch slave cylinder has been removed however now I still need to insert the guide bolts into the mounting bolt holes on the transmission.
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  5. #35
    Registered User Olsensan's Avatar
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    You can either make these or order them from BMW, you want 4 of them.
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  6. #36
    Registered User Olsensan's Avatar
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    This is certainly a fancy workshop with a lot of room. I put plywood on the floor to provide a smooth surface to roll the jack back which supported the transmission etc. and rigged up this mess which served as a winch to allow me to pull the transmission rearward. I was doing this completely alone and this helped.
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  7. #37
    Registered User Olsensan's Avatar
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    Again, not fancy but it this setup held the battery tray up just enough to clear those threaded post when pulling the transmission back. I also loosened the 2 10mm bolts securing the forward part of the tray below the motronic unit. That ave me a little more play.
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  8. #38
    Registered User Olsensan's Avatar
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    Finally, the holy grail! Looks pretty good, no damage and still has factory grease in there.
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  9. #39
    Registered User Olsensan's Avatar
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    I'll get these cleaned up and see what things look like.
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  10. #40
    Registered User Olsensan's Avatar
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    Spline shaft looks good but there is some sign of clutch hub leaving very minute marks.
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  11. #41
    Registered User Olsensan's Avatar
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    Clutch hub looks good, a big relief!
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  12. #42
    Registered User Olsensan's Avatar
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    Well, this is it, what you'll be looking at when everything is ready to button up again. Looks like who did it and ran!
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    Last edited by OLSENSAN; 03-04-2012 at 02:47 AM.

  13. #43
    Registered User Olsensan's Avatar
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    Once you have cleaned the old grease etc from the splines and clutch hub, you will want to use Honda Moly 60 Paste or GD 525 Moly Grease available at Beemer Boneyard. Both are recommended for this job and you should only apply it lightly to the splines. I used a tooth brush and did not cake it on, just a thin layer.
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    Last edited by OLSENSAN; 03-04-2012 at 02:49 AM.

  14. #44
    Registered User Olsensan's Avatar
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    To finalize, I want to say that aside from replacing the clutch slave cylinder and gasket, I also replaced the seal. In my case it was a little more difficult than others since it appeared that sealant was used. By using the other links and info, you'll find that by drilling a hole in the seal and screwing in a screw, it can be pulled right out. I knocked one side in a bit and than yanked it out.

    On reassembly, concerning the air box, don't forget what I said in post #28. You'll be a happier man.

    If you replace the clutch slave cylinder, you will need to replace the dot 4 fluid in that circuit. I went to the CVS pharmacy and bought a 600 cc syringe and used that to push the fluid up to the reservoir from the bleeder valve with rubber tubing One thing worth mentioning is that once the splines are lubed up and fluid and slave is replaced, you will notice a definite improvement on how the clutch lever feels. I thought something was wrong, it feels very new so to speak. Almost too easy to pull in.

    The other thing worth mentioning is the gear shift indicator wire. Once you have fished that out run it along the wire harness and secure it where it was. I found some tech info on this type of connector. Go to this link and go down to page 10. There is a description how you can unlock the pins and remove the connector shell to fish this wire through the impossible space.

    http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/download...connectors.pdf

    Instead of using red loctite as recommended by BMW, I used the medium blue which will provide the same result with less chance of destroying threads, but it still remains your choice.

    This document is far from complete for this job and the links provided will aid you greatly. I hope I have helped anyone performing this job as the info and help from other members here has done for me, this was my opportunity to give something back; I am grateful to be able to do this here for you. Thanks! -Greg O
    Last edited by OLSENSAN; 03-05-2012 at 09:22 PM.

  15. #45
    Registered User twinsig's Avatar
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    questions

    Preparing for my maiden clutch voyage, wondering if i MUST completely remove the clutch disk to get it clean, etc...? I'm not at all worried about wear/cant really afford the parts & just trying to keep it alive at lowest cost.
    I will be replacing some seals though. Not for the eng unless theyre leaking.
    Also, how long do the "home-made" trans alignment tools need to be?
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