Take a break.
Starting the process of removing the fuel injectors. First disconnect the electrical connector than the injectors themselves. That clip will be turned 90 degrees counter clockwise once pushed back on to keep it from coming off.
Cover/close off any openings! Now is the time to order new gaskets for the throttle bodies and injectors.
Left side of bike, make sure you document wire routing, you will be scratching your head on reassembly if you don't.
Time for the starter to be removed.
The wire behind the starter is for the gear shift indicator which is mounted by the clutch slave cylinder. The other end, the connector needs to be un-routed later. It is what others have claimed to be the most difficult part of this entire job. I have to agree, it was quite difficult.
Remove the rear shock adjuster.
Remove brake line securing ring.
Remove the bolt securing the clutch bleed assembly to the frame.
Now you are ready to loosen and remove the appropriate fasteners so that the rear subframe can be raised. You will be doing this on both sides. When this subframe is ready to lift, it will feel like 10-15 lbs. If you can't lift it with one hand, something is binding and you should stop and find the problem. DON"T force it like I did using a strap, I bent the tabs which are the pivot point for the lift. I had to remove the entire rear subframe. Although it made the remainder of this job much easier and that is a choice for you, it will take an additional hour or two.
This was the consequence of not feeling the weight of the subframe when pivoting it up using a strap. Don't do this! Note that the wire harness lies under and beside the battery tray. Later when I needed to remove the gear shift indicator plug/wire, which runs under this tray, it is so difficult to remove, just no space available. Because I removed the subframe, I was able to pull the wire harness away from the battery tray area and easily remove the mentioned wire and connector. Note how the subframe restricts the movement of the harness away from the tray.
This is great documentation !
'03 R1150R, '03 F650GS, '97DR200SE,'78 Honda CT-90, '77Honda CT-90
Now that the airbox has been removed, the two 10mm nuts need to be removed above these posts. Also the ground wire wrapped around the left post must be freed up so the transmission can be backed out. Some will raise the battery box and push it up and around the post while backing the Trans. out. I took a 5mm allen key, shortened the shorter end by 1/2 its length and used it to remove the ground bolt and it was completely out of the way and not a big deal. The Battery box needs to rise above the posts so I used a small ratchet/strap secured to the ceiling and held it up and out of the way. Note how the fuel lines are routed in and among everything.
Note: This is important! When removing the airbox, it's pretty straight forward, it will come out as you manipulate it down, no biggie. The fun isn't over yet and keep this in mind! When you reinstall this, it may be a real PIA, it just may not want to go in. What I did was gradually lower the subframe once I got it in place the best I could. There are those 2 tabs on the rear of it that seem to get stuck and I was prying them to squeeze past metal frame. Just lower it a bit at a time and it will pop in nicey-nice. Aside from the gear shift indicator position connector, this to me was the other PIA.
Last edited by OLSENSAN; 03-05-2012 at 09:17 PM.
Here is the infamous gear shift indicator connector and wire which have to be re-routed.
See how tight that space is, the connector will not fit when trying to finesse it through, hence the PIA.