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Thread: Oil type

  1. #1
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    Oil type

    Since the RT's are dry clutch, is there a reason to not use auto oil like mobile one?

  2. #2
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    insufficeint levels of ZDDP, phosphorus, magnesium, etc.
    SG rated is what you want.
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

  3. #3
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    OIL question

    I have used Mobil 1 15W-50, or 20W-50 for many years, with no problems. Discussed this with my local dealer when this question first came up many years ago, they said should not be any problems.

  4. #4
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    Ack, the dreaded oil thread!

    I am straining mightily against posting my experiences and opinions.

    To save time, go here...

    http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthre...hlight=mobil+1

  5. #5
    Old man in the mountains osbornk's Avatar
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    I've used conventional dino automotive oil in everything I have had all my life. I don't think the pistons rings, bearings etc. cares if it is in a car, motorcycle, lawnmower or anything else. I've never had an oil related problem with anything since I started driving in 1962 and mowing yards in 1958.
    'You can say what you want about the South, but I almost never hear of anyone wanting to retire to the North.

    Black 86 R80RT Brown 03 R1200CLC

  6. #6
    Benchwrenching PGlaves's Avatar
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    SG or SH rated - depending on model. If it doesn't carry this rating, AND/BUT you can establish by reputable laboratory analysis that it contains at least 1,200 ppm ZDDP it will have sufficient ZDDP. Otherwise, it is all "he said, she said" but the oil still fails to meet BMW specifications. The critical parts are the camshaft/lifter interface since this is a scuffing environment and the bikes don't have roller lifters like most modern cars.

    New camshafts for an Oilhead will run you about $650. Add another $100 for lifters. Then labor.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
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  7. #7
    Jammess jammess's Avatar
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    Valvoline VR1 20/50 dino racing oil. Plenty of ZDDP and easy to find, I buy at local NAPA.
    Jammess

  8. #8
    Registered User PAS's Avatar
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    According to Valvoline there is less detergent in the racing oil, does that mean it isnt supposed to be run for thousands of miles before draining?


    "What are the benefits to using a racing oil versus a regular "street legal" oil?
    The Valvoline VR1 Racing and "Not Street Legal" Racing Oils contain additional additives for increased horsepower and reduced friction on metal parts, provide extra wear protection for high compression/higher horsepower engines, and include less detergents than regular conventional motor oils. "

  9. #9
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    Here we go...

    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  10. #10
    Registered User PAS's Avatar
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by Happy Wanderer View Post
    Here we go...

    I couldnt resist........

  11. #11
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    mobil 1 15w50:
    http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/..._Products.aspx

    also:
    http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...onal_Oils.aspx
    go to answer and klick on table,
    I guess 15w50 is OK to use

  12. #12
    Registered User ANDYVH's Avatar
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    I agree with Paul and the BMW specifications.

    While it is true that the engine oil and tranny oil are separate volumes and our BMWs have a dry clutch, that alone does not justify using an automotive spec oil. Certain critical areas in BMW motorcycle engines are very different than those in car engines, like Paul mentions. I used to use Mobil 1 automotive oil until I found out it no longer contained ZDDP.

    So I would only use a motorcycle specific oil, or an oil that I know has sufficient levels of ZDDP and the matching SG or SH SAE rating.
    Woodenshoe to Cheesehead

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by osbornk View Post
    I've used conventional dino automotive oil in everything I have had all my life. I don't think the pistons rings, bearings etc. cares if it is in a car, motorcycle, lawnmower or anything else. I've never had an oil related problem with anything since I started driving in 1962 and mowing yards in 1958.
    I'm going to do what every oil thread needs-add some real content/humor: I gotcha beat osbornk, I 1st started mowing in ~ 1950, thereabouts & we never owned a power mower at my house until after I moved out. The oil I used to lube the reel mower (as I begged people to let me do their yard for 25 cents) got a dose of used crankcase oil on the moving parts now & then . Hard to imagine getting turned down at that price!
    FWIW, later, much later, when I ran a juvy program for a few years, we had them mowing the yard with the same style reel mowers.Call it child abuse,whatever,we called it work, which most of them had never learned to do. The issue by then had become that it was hard to find a modern version that was worth anything! Now back to a more important topic-OIL!

  14. #14
    Registered User AKsuited's Avatar
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    I use Mobil 1 V-Twin oil when I can find it. Walmart carries it sometimes. I also have some full synthetic motorcycle oil from my dealer.

    I have switched from Mobil 1 15W-50 to full synthetic motorcycle oil to comply with BMW spec's.

    Harry
    2003 R1150RT - Silver

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Red100RT View Post
    Valvoline 20/50 dino racing oil. Plenty of ZDDP
    The biggest problem with any "racing" oil, is that while it works fantastic in racing.
    There are virtually zero anti rust agents in the package. Because rusting is not a factor in a racing engine. It is on a street vehicle.
    max

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