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Thread: Broken Fairing Connection 1150RT

  1. #1
    Registered User roger 04 rt's Avatar
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    Broken Fairing Connection 1150RT

    The other day in my haste to get the O2 Sensor unplugged ( Open Loop AFRs ), one of the fairing connection tabs on the left hand fairing, caught on the cylinder head fins and broke.

    The tab separated in two places:

    In photos 1 and 2 you can see where it cracked and separated from the main fairing.

    In photos 3 and 4 you can see where it was thermally welded to an inner plastic attachment.

    My hope is that I can use a high performance plastic glue to repair the crack and then an epoxy glue or contact cement to re-weld two black areas. I don't know if I will need to reinforce with bolts and nuts or other, in the former thermal weld area.

    I am a novice with plastic and glue so would appreciate any ideas or glues that could be used.

    RB








  2. #2
    Registered User NavyDad's Avatar
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    I have had better luck with JB weld epoxy than I have with any adhesive products. Clean the area, put plenty of JB on and let it set up for a day or so. You can sand and shape the hardened JB if you need to. Plus JB won't be bothered by the heat like some adhesives may be. That area where the break is does get hot.

  3. #3
    GEEZER lsouth3's Avatar
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    repair

    +1 on the JB Weld. I have an RS fairing that has been wrecked and repaired with what appears to be MarineTex, another hard epoxy product. It also adheres to the ABS very well.
    Lee - The older I get the better I was
    1994 R1100RSL, Black. 1994 R1100RSL, Silver Pearl and a "new" 2001 R1100RS, Red!
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  4. #4
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    Instead of relying solely on the JB Weld for the attachment, whether it's a "butt" or "lap" joining, grab a wire coat hangar and cut & bend a couple of reinforcing ribs that will lay on the inside of the pieces and match their curves. After they fit nicely (they don't have to be perfect unless they'll be visible), coat them also with the JB, lay them in place, and slather more JB on top of them. Works well.

  5. #5
    Curmudgeon nrpetersen's Avatar
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    I agree - do Pauls metal backup maybe with some thin soft aluminum which can be hammer formed to lay flat across the back side.
    Retired w 2005 K1200LT, 2000 R1100RT, & 1975 R90/6

  6. #6
    Registered User roger 04 rt's Avatar
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    Thanks everyone for the quick feedback. After feeling dumb for rushing, it is good to have good ideas for the repair. I will look into the JB.

    RB

  7. #7
    Registered User Olsensan's Avatar
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    Go out and buy fiberglass batting used for auto repair. clean and layout a liberal amount of jb weld on the piece and than spread the batting cut to size on the piece. Coat the batting with a liberal amount of the jb weld again, let set. You will never see that piece break again.

  8. #8
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GO1150RT View Post
    Go out and buy fiberglass batting used for auto repair. clean and layout a liberal amount of jb weld on the piece and than spread the batting cut to size on the piece. Coat the batting with a liberal amount of the jb weld again, let set. You will never see that piece break again.
    That sounds like a great idea. Reinforcing that area of the fairing has come to mind whenever I remove the tupperware on my RT. It's a tad flimsy down there and I can see how it would easily crack or worse, break right off. The wire or metal idea might attract too much heat on the back of the plastic and hold it there due to being a denser material. Don't want concentrated heat on the back of plastic bits...

    Off topic question: I have a broken side cover pin and some face shield detent tabs that need fixing. I've tried crazy glue and Q-Bond but they just break again sooner than later.
    Does JB Weld work on all plastics? Doesn't really say on the tubes and I've never used the stuff.
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  9. #9
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    Does JB Weld work on all plastics? Doesn't really say on the tubes and I've never used the stuff.[/QUOTE]

    Works real well on all plastics, and just about anything else. I've used it alot on just about everything.

  10. #10
    Registered User kpjensen's Avatar
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    I got some Sugru for Christmas, this stuff is the bomb! Just might do the trick, easy to form and cures in 24 hrs.

  11. #11
    Registered User Olsensan's Avatar
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    I've used JB weld on my plastics, 02 1150RT. As long as you prep the tupperware properly this stuff will not ever loosen or break. Clean surface, sand with 400 grit paper maybe a little more abrasive, blow off the area and wipe with alcohol or a good solvent that won't eat the plastics. You could even use metal screen from the ace hardware in place of the fiberglass. Go with two or more layers of the stuff, whatever makes you happy. Use filler or sandable JB weld on the outside, smooth it nicey-nice, hit with touch up and whaaaalaa, you'll be so proud!

  12. #12
    Registered User roger 04 rt's Avatar
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    Thank you. I'm going the JB Weld and cloth route. May not even need the touch up.

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