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Thread: I did the left-side chain tensioner upgrade...

  1. #1
    Left Coast Rider
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    I did the left-side chain tensioner upgrade...

    ...on my 1100. It worked as advertised. Thanks for all previous input, by the way.

    Now, would it not make sense to upgrade the right side cam chain tensioner? Is there even an upgrade for the right side?

    Thanks in advance for your input, derision, smackdown.

  2. #2
    ONE LESS HARLEY 04R1150RS's Avatar
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    no
    Richard
    2004 R1150RS
    1984 R80 G/S
    2003 Suzuki DRZ 400S

  3. #3
    Registered User
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    "no" in this case means both "no reason" and "no upgrade available".

    put the wrenches down, walk away from the tool box, and go for a ride.
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

  4. #4
    Registered User ANDYVH's Avatar
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    The RH tensioner maintains the oil in the tensioner cavity because it is facing down on the RH side. The tensioner on the LH side faces up, open to the bottom, and the oil in the old style tensioner drains out. Then, when you start the bike the tensioner is not extended until oil pressure builds.

    The LH tensioner update has a spring to maintain minimal chain tension until the oil pressure comes up, thereby eliminating the start up noise.
    Woodenshoe to Cheesehead

  5. #5
    Lucky MOTORRADMIKE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ANDYVH View Post
    The RH tensioner maintains the oil in the tensioner cavity because it is facing down on the RH side. The tensioner on the LH side faces up, open to the bottom, and the oil in the old style tensioner drains out. Then, when you start the bike the tensioner is not extended until oil pressure builds.

    The LH tensioner update has a spring to maintain minimal chain tension until the oil pressure comes up, thereby eliminating the start up noise.
    I didn't get a spring.
    Everything I can find shows 3 parts.
    Piston
    Cylinder
    Washer

    Mine still drains out over the Winter, I'm going to fill it with oil this year but a spring would be good.

    Any more info Andy or anybody???
    Mike Marr
    1978 Yamaha XS750 (Needs rings), 1996 BMW R1100RS, 2004 Honda CRF230F

  6. #6
    Registered User
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    if you're talking about the upgraded LH tensioner, the spring is internal.

    just do your normal winter storage, no reason nor need to do anything special. at worst, it will act once like the old version, but i really doubt even that.
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

  7. #7
    Left Coast Rider
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    Thanks guys. I figured there was a good reason for NOT doing a second upgrade.

    But let's get anal for a moment. Heck, its winter, what else do most of us have to do?

    Will the left-side upgrade fit in the right side tensioner cavity and, if yes, would there be any harm done by installing said upgraded tensioner?

    The assembled multitude has a right to know!

  8. #8
    Registered User ANDYVH's Avatar
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    Nope, no gain. Aint broke, don't "fix" it.
    Woodenshoe to Cheesehead

  9. #9
    Left Coast Rider
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    Quote Originally Posted by ANDYVH View Post
    Nope, no gain. Aint broke, don't "fix" it.
    You guys are quickly sucking the fun out of my life.

    "Put the wrenches down, move away from the toolbox, and no one will get hurt."

    But seriously, thanks for the education about all things tensioner related.

  10. #10
    Lucky MOTORRADMIKE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BC1100S View Post
    You guys are quickly sucking the fun out of my life.

    "Put the wrenches down
    Fun back in.

    Pick the wrenches up.
    Brake pads may be worn. Check those.
    When did you last change your Alt belt?
    Valves adjusted?
    Make a TB sync manometer for Spring, you'll need to do that after the valve adjust.
    Lube the clutch lever and adjust.
    How old is your brake fluid?
    Blinker fluid too. Is it DOT 9? BMW does not approve downlevel Blinker fluid.
    Mike Marr
    1978 Yamaha XS750 (Needs rings), 1996 BMW R1100RS, 2004 Honda CRF230F

  11. #11
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    You sure your splines are lubed?

  12. #12
    Left Coast Rider
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    Quote Originally Posted by MotorradMike View Post
    Fun back in.

    Pick the wrenches up.
    Brake pads may be worn. Check those.
    When did you last change your Alt belt?
    Valves adjusted?
    Make a TB sync manometer for Spring, you'll need to do that after the valve adjust.
    Lube the clutch lever and adjust.
    How old is your brake fluid?
    Blinker fluid too. Is it DOT 9? BMW does not approve downlevel Blinker fluid.
    - 75% left
    - About 100 kilometers ago
    - About 100 kilometers ago
    - Instructions please
    - Lubed
    - Brand spanking new along with Spiegler lines
    - Blinker fluid? Damn, I knew I'd missed something...

    And for RedRam
    - Spline lube? 40k kilometers on bike. Not quite due. But there's so much talk about spline lube that I want to do it every 10k kilometers.

    I guess I'll just have to wax it...again.

    Life is good !

  13. #13
    Lucky MOTORRADMIKE's Avatar
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    Looks like you're on top of the maintenance.

    There are lots of variations on the home-made TB sync tools.
    I like the differential idea because it's smaller.
    I used fork oil in the tubing.
    The chambers at the top damp fluctuations and also provide a reservoir to keep fluid from being sucked into the cylinders. They don't need to be as big as I made them.
    It measures 33" overall top to bottom.
    The sniffer valves are used to equalize the fluid level if it gets out of whack during adjustment.


    Mike Marr
    1978 Yamaha XS750 (Needs rings), 1996 BMW R1100RS, 2004 Honda CRF230F

  14. #14
    Lucky MOTORRADMIKE's Avatar
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    Here's something you should have a look at if you haven't already.
    Mike Marr
    1978 Yamaha XS750 (Needs rings), 1996 BMW R1100RS, 2004 Honda CRF230F

  15. #15
    ...still bragging!
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    Depending how old your RT is, you may want to change the hall sensor including the wiring.
    Mike Simon
    78 BMW R100S, 90 BMW K1; 99 BMW R1100RT, 12 K1600GT

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