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Thread: Booster Plug opinions

  1. #16
    jduke
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    These air temp spoofers generally tell the motronic it's 20 degrees colder than it really is so extra fuel will be added. I'm sure there's a low temp in the maps where the motronic will stop adding fuel.

  2. #17
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    I have had mine in for 3 months. This year has been different from most here in NH. First I am off a wing and it has taken me a bit to get used to the dry clutch. The Booster plug has helped me greatly with clutch engagement. It is probably just me but perhaps the $$$ is the reason I can start off better. Who knows. Would I do it again YES. I get concerned with non stock mufflers and the current NH seacoast irritibalities concerning noise there. But I do ride there so I respect the concerns.

    Perhaps the Uni filter is in the future. I do enjoy the low end grunt much like my small fleet of diesels.
    '08 R1200RT Blu
    MOA 148050
    IBA, AMA

  3. #18
    Registered User roger 04 rt's Avatar
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    There's a thread on BP over in Oilheads. I've got one. Well made. Does exactly what they claim. Adds 6% to Open Loop fueling by shifting the temp. Here are some measurements I made: BoosterPlug.

    The BP doesn't affect Closed Loop where our bikes spend almost half their time. I used it in combo with an LC-1 to richen Closed Loop by 4-6%.

  4. #19
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    I have one on my R1200R and love it. Works as advertised.

    Here is a pic of my cell phone that is communicating with my GS911. The bike is sitting in a heated garage at 64 degrees.

    07 R1200R - 75 R90/6 - 67 R50/2 - 75 R90S
    1983 Suzuki GS1100E
    2007 Honda CRF450X

  5. #20
    Registered User mpmarty's Avatar
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    Don't need booster plugs. If I want more scat I just downshift and roll on the throttle. From 5000 to 8000 rpm there's enough for me.
    Marty - in the western Oregon mountains.'06RT, (gone '04RT, '86 Venture Royal, '81 Yamaha Virago920, '82Suzuki GS1100GK, '76 Suzuki GT750, Triumph 750 Bonneville, BSA Road Rocket 650, 61" Harley knucklehead)

  6. #21
    Rtinger
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    Keep cruising at 8k rpm and you 'll be buying a new RT sooner than not...but hey! its the way of crouch-rocketeers' culture. If its good for your ego to rev that high, it could not be that bad for the bike--as the logic goes.

    With a booster your cruising is around 3500-3800. The engine runs easy and strainless on a flat road. Particularly in 4th and 5th gear. Mine cruises the easiest at close to 38 on sixth gear doing around 74 mph (which is when I got a ticket).

    Without the booster your engine runs dry to meet EPA standards. But then, without a booster you have more money to buy several beers and YOU are not dry. So it may be a personal choice of dryness preference.

    If you care to note, feel the pegs under you; they are a good indicator. When there is the least amount of vibration on your feet, your engine rpm is at a balance point with the torque needed to go at that speed--not pulling and not dragging...check the tach then....if it is at 8K write me back, it might persuade me to change my driving habits.

  7. #22
    Registered User mpmarty's Avatar
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    And why would I need a new BMW if I run it up to the factory recommended red line? I don't need more power for cruising and see no harm in winding the engine out to its designed capacity. Cruising is another matter altogether and requires no power over what overcomes wind/rolling resistance. If you think added fuel is "good" for your engine you don't understand what happens when excess fuel washes the cylinders dry and adds contaminants to your crankcase. I try to run fifty degrees on the lean side of max EGT.
    Marty - in the western Oregon mountains.'06RT, (gone '04RT, '86 Venture Royal, '81 Yamaha Virago920, '82Suzuki GS1100GK, '76 Suzuki GT750, Triumph 750 Bonneville, BSA Road Rocket 650, 61" Harley knucklehead)

  8. #23
    Rtinger
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    I stand corrected! factory recommended redline it is.

  9. #24
    Registered User roger 04 rt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MPMARTY View Post
    And why would I need a new BMW if I run it up to the factory recommended red line? *I don't need more power for cruising and see no harm in winding the engine out to its designed capacity. *Cruising is another matter altogether and requires no power over what overcomes wind/rolling resistance. *If you think added fuel is "good" for your engine you don't understand what happens when excess fuel washes the cylinders dry and adds contaminants to your crankcase. *I try to run fifty degrees on the lean side of max EGT.
    Interesting about 50 degrees on the lean side. That's about the mixture that gives Best Economy. I've been pushing my R1150RT toward Best Power mixture, on the rich side. I'm curious how you get your bike to run 50 degrees on the lean side since the O2 sensors tries hard to produce a stoichimetric mixture of 14.7:1 or about peak EGT.

  10. #25
    Registered User mpmarty's Avatar
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    Just like in an aircraft: Thermocouple in the head pipe, transistorized loop from the exhaust sensors back to the central fuel computer that allows one to cheat on the voltage seen from the sensora
    Last edited by MPMARTY; 02-16-2012 at 04:45 AM. Reason: spelling
    Marty - in the western Oregon mountains.'06RT, (gone '04RT, '86 Venture Royal, '81 Yamaha Virago920, '82Suzuki GS1100GK, '76 Suzuki GT750, Triumph 750 Bonneville, BSA Road Rocket 650, 61" Harley knucklehead)

  11. #26
    roamingbeemer roamingbeemer's Avatar
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    Cool stoichimetric

    Ok, I am lurking but I must also ask how to run lean of stoichimetric mixture on one of these bikes. I am totally in favor of lean of peak operations with the proper instrumentation to monitor both CHT and EGT but how can this be done with these bike systems? I have flown a couple of aircraft with the fancy instrumentation and I played with lean of peak and it worked wonderfully. Although my instincts from many years of flying are to stick to rich of peak. As an aircraft mechanic though, the sensors for those fancy instruments are a pain in the butt to work with. I also think it is totally to each their own with regard to making these modifications which may or may not make significant improvements.
    Last edited by roamingbeemer; 02-16-2012 at 12:38 PM. Reason: added sentence

  12. #27
    Registered User roger 04 rt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MPMARTY View Post
    Just like in an aircraft: Thermocouple in the head pipe, transistorized loop from the exhaust sensors back to the central fuel computer that allows one to cheat on the voltage seen from the sensora
    Since I've got time in an A36 Bonanza, and am used to having my hand on the mixture control, I've got some questions. First I want to mention that I've richened my R1150RT by adding an Innovate Motorsports LC-1 Wideband O2 sensor with Narrowband output. I could also reprogram Lambda to run lean.

    So I understand the idea of an EGT sensor and circuit, what ECU signal do you modify? Also, have you disabled Closed Loop operation?

    Quote Originally Posted by roamingbeemer View Post
    Ok, I am lurking but I must also ask how to run lean of stoichimetric mixture on one of these bikes. I am totally in favor of lean of peak operations with the proper instrumentation to monitor both CHT and EGT but how can this be done with these bike systems? I have flown a couple of aircraft with the fancy instrumentation and I played with lean of peak and it worked wonderfully. Although my instincts from many years of flying are to stick to rich of peak. As an aircraft mechanic though, the sensors for those fancy instruments are a pain in the butt to work with. I also think it is totally to each their own with regard to making these modifications which may or may not make significant improvements.
    Did my own annual inspections and am inclined to agree with you. To be kind to the engine and to get top speed, I almost always ran 100F rich of peak. That's at an AFR in the range of mid 13:1. I've been testing AFRs between 13.8 and 14.2. It makes a significant difference to torque, smoothness and driveablility, just as in the plane. It feels like a new, different more powerful motorcycle. The LC-1 is a straightforward install, keeping the Motronic operating as designed but adding a programmable AFR switching point.

  13. #28
    Rtinger
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    technorama

  14. #29
    roamingbeemer roamingbeemer's Avatar
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    Smile

    Haha. Yes this is getting technical. I am a self professed geek though. Just ask my wife.
    Seek Fun. "Any fool can criticize, condemn and complain--and most fools do" BF
    2009 K1300GT, S1000RR sold, F650 sold
    2011 R1200GSA
    2014 Kawasaki DTracker 250 (Chiang Mai Thailand)

  15. #30
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    Booster plug

    I posted in December with gaines from a combination of cam sprockets, exhaust and FRK module. I have since taken my R1200ST back to Dave Campbells shop and rechecked the AF ratio and decided to tune with a PC 3. We ended up with more HP thru the midrange than with FRK but the real gains were in torque. The motor picked up 6 ft at 3500 and 19 ft at 5500. Those figures are compared to a stock motor with a free flow exhaust. The HP and TQ modified and stock cross at about 7500 rpm. As you can tell this makes a great motor especially two up and loaded. Most of these gains can be attributed to the cam sprockets and the PC3. For the RT,GS riders looking for more low end and mid range power this could be something you would be interested in.

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