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Thread: Powder coat valve covers?

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    Powder coat valve covers?

    Here is probably an easy question. I have an 83 R80RT. My valve covers are the normal finish, not black. Can anyone tell me what year/models came with the black valve covers? I really like the way they look. Any also, has anyone powder coated valve covers? Can this be done?
    Thanks
    Steve

  2. #2
    --Tony AnnapolisAirhead's Avatar
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    Black Valve Covers

    1980ish-1995 came with black valvecovers...with the exception of the R80RT, R80, R80ST and I think the R80GS. Those were not painted.

    Its your bike, do what you like. The physical valve cover is the same regardless of color and you can paint or powdercoat them. I painted mine a couple years ago after bead blasting them. I used standard automotive 'bumper trim" rattle can paint and they are holding up just fine. It's a bit more work to grind off the powdercoating on the horizontal fins than it is if you paint them.
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    Last edited by AnnapolisAirhead; 07-14-2011 at 02:41 PM. Reason: Added a picture for clarity
    '83 R100RT'd
    '71 R75/5 SWB
    '06 KLR 650

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    Very nice. Thanks! I was just wondering if the powder coat or paint would hold up to the heat but apparently it will

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    I stripped the covers off my 1988 R100RS and repainted them with black engine enamel sanding the fins off with 220 grit paper.They still look new after 6,000 miles.

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    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
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    Very nice. Thanks! I was just wondering if the powder coat or paint would hold up to the heat but apparently it will
    "powder-coat" resins are baked after the powder is applied; the process temperature is around 390??F [200??C]. Many powder-coaters warrant their finishes to around 300??F (for "low" temp paints) and 1000??F (for high temp finishes (exhaust manifolds)).

    Airhead valve covers, hopefully, never get anywhere near 300??F.

    But as everyone else has mentioned.... a rattle can works great too, and it's a lot cheaper.
    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden

    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner

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    I also painted mine with some hi temp engine enamel. I cut strips of masking tape to cover the horizontal ribs.

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    Registered User richardak's Avatar
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    Thank you all for these suggestions. I was just thinking about doing this too. After sanding off the fins, do you use any sort of clear finish?
    1983 R100RT hacked w/Cozy Rocket My blog
    Airhead #10576

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    Registered User jad01's Avatar
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    I had mine powdercoated about 12 years back (along with the wheels). I didn't sand the fins as I liked the blacked-out look. The powder coat has held up very well, although I have dinged the valve covers in garage tip-overs... Fortunately, rattle can gloss black VHT matches so well I can't see the spots that I touched up. I think I might tend to go the way of powder coat again as it seems to be a little more resistant to rocks dings, etc. compared to painted surfaces.
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    Jim
    '78 R80/7
    '90 and '93 Red Mazda Miatas ("Jelly Bean" and "Red Hot")
    '96 Giant Upland (big Kendas & freshly greased bearings!)

  9. #9
    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
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    The blue pin stripes on the wheels are a nice touch.
    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden

    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner

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    Registered User jad01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lmo1131 View Post
    The blue pin stripes on the wheels are a nice touch.
    Thanks! $3 worth of blue pinstripe tape from pepboys... a perfect fit in the grooves along the rim of the Lesters (a "one adult beverage" job ).

    It occurs to me that I also had the saddlebag mounts/rear rack powder coated a few years back and really like the way it has held up as well.
    Jim
    '78 R80/7
    '90 and '93 Red Mazda Miatas ("Jelly Bean" and "Red Hot")
    '96 Giant Upland (big Kendas & freshly greased bearings!)

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    --Tony AnnapolisAirhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by richardak View Post
    Thank you all for these suggestions. I was just thinking about doing this too. After sanding off the fins, do you use any sort of clear finish?
    I didn't put any clear coat on the fins and they look the same some 12,000 miles later. Every once in a while I wipe my bike down with speed wax and hit the valve covers too. Easy maintenance.
    '83 R100RT'd
    '71 R75/5 SWB
    '06 KLR 650

  12. #12
    R100GS, '88 GUENTHER's Avatar
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    I had my covers powder coated as well. Unfortunately they came back with a rough surface coat - kind of matte. First I was shocked but then I liked it.

    This coat is a bit thicker and after ca. 4 years It devleoped small bubbles at a few spots. Nothing chipped off so far. If it gets worse I'll have it repainted and I'll make sure I get a smooth coating where I hope/guess no such bubbles would eventually evolve.

    /Guenther

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    Barback King rapiddog's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Ditto

    ...ditto on the rattlecan, it will last just as long as PC if you have a tipover...
    I always use some striping tape for the fins after I smooth them with a fine file. An old gasket works well as a mask for the mating surface...







    "...the burble of my exhaust unwound like a long cord behind me. Soon my speed snapped it, and I heard only the cry of the wind...." Larry of Arubia

  14. #14
    DoktorT
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    Quote Originally Posted by beleau View Post
    Very nice. Thanks! I was just wondering if the powder coat or paint would hold up to the heat but apparently it will
    The powder coat is baked on at some 300 degrees F. Rattle can paint, good quality enamel Rustoleum or Krylon, will bake to near the hardness of the powder coat over time. Either works very well.

  15. #15
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    For some reason unknown to me, powder coat has become some sort of an elite finish on web forums, when in reality paint is pretty much paint if applied properly, difference being heat cure vs. solvent . The real difference for me is, "I" have several paint guns & "I" can apply /spray the paint with solvent! The challenge for your valve cover job is to get the paint to adhere to the Alu and bond well. Having the metal clean is imperative & it would help if the surface is freshly bead/shell blasted or scratched with an autobody 3M medium pad , then use a primer that's suited for the purpose.
    I would probably choose a rattle can bumper black/satin black in one of the more expensive brands . If it gets messed up-paint it again!

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