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Thread: Final Drive Issue 2008 R1200RT

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    Registered User PaulWitt's Avatar
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    Final Drive Issue 2008 R1200RT

    2008 R1200RT with 32K miles.

    This evening after coming home on the bike, I noticed a growling noise from the rear. The rear tire is about 90% worn, but I also noticed the final drive was quite hot. I could still put my hand on it, but it seemed like maybe it was too hot. I don't have anything to judge that by. There appears to be no side to side play in the drive.
    Any thoughts?
    Paul Witt
    2008 R1200RT
    Greensboro, NC

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    sometimes a well worn tire can make an unusual noise especially if inflation press. is low. If you can hold your hand on the drive it's likely under 130 deg. f. I would change the oil and check the old oil for metal. good luck hope it turns out ok. the outboard seal went in my gs last summer on the way home from the MOA rally and it had me worried for a while but a new seal installed by the good dealer in Calgary and 20000 kilometers later still working great.
    Mike Lutes 89k75s, 05r1200gs

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    Survivor akbeemer's Avatar
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    Sounds like you are still under warranty so a visit to the dealer would seem wise. I have heard claims that the FD warranty is extended to 5 years.... hope that is true.
    Kevin Huddy
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    Polarbear Polarbear's Avatar
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    Tire likely;

    A really worn tire will growl loudly in curves, not so much if at all in the upright straights. My GSA1200 FD is hot too, just being able to keep my hand on it a few seconds. 180ccof oil in there isn't much oil, so its hotter than my Airhead FD with much more oil in it. I personally wish they had designed the FD to carry more oil, like the older ones! The synthetic oil can take the heat, however the bearings won't after about 300 degrees they are getting into trouble. The syn oils will go to 600-700, bearings NO. I think the FD is getting to 200+, not near 300. I speculate some and wish I had a temp gauge on my FD too. Randy

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    Polarbear Polarbear's Avatar
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    FD Heat question???

    Anybody know about these? I've heard about heat marker pens, crayons or the like, that you can mark the case and if/when the mark disappears, you know you've passed that heat level? The marker crayons come in various levels of heat ranges, SO if one were to mark his FD with a marker like this, one would know just how hot or nearly so it gets. I'm asking, do these still exist? Maybe a seasoned wrench out there knows this answer. Randy

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    Old, Ugly, feet stink too
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    Quote Originally Posted by Polarbear View Post
    Anybody know about these? I've heard about heat marker pens, crayons or the like, that you can mark the case and if/when the mark disappears, you know you've passed that heat level? The marker crayons come in various levels of heat ranges, SO if one were to mark his FD with a marker like this, one would know just how hot or nearly so it gets. I'm asking, do these still exist? Maybe a seasoned wrench out there knows this answer. Randy
    Yessir, they are referred to as "temperature crayons" and are used quite extensively in large equipment manufacturing where pre-heating to a specific level is critical for the welding of differing types of steel. I am not sure just how much range is available in them, a welding supply house (good one) should be able to shed some light on that.

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    Outlander Omega Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Polarbear View Post
    Anybody know about these? I've heard about heat marker pens, crayons or the like, that you can mark the case and if/when the mark disappears, you know you've passed that heat level? The marker crayons come in various levels of heat ranges, SO if one were to mark his FD with a marker like this, one would know just how hot or nearly so it gets. I'm asking, do these still exist? Maybe a seasoned wrench out there knows this answer. Randy
    Hi Randy and all, a good way to check things like this is with a non-contact infrared thermometer. I'm a big fan of the Fluke brand but there are others.

    Some don't want to make the investment for what is considered an occasional use tool but it actually can be used quite a bit. An example would be checking the basement temps this past winter as it was a tough one. On the bike you can check side to side temps and even the temps of the heated hand grips. HTH Gary
    "Well they say.. time loves a hero but only time will tell.. If he's real, he's a legend from heaven If he ain't he was sent here from hell" Lowell George
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    Motorcycleton
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    Quote Originally Posted by Polarbear View Post
    Anybody know about these? I've heard about heat marker pens, crayons or the like, that you can mark the case and if/when the mark disappears, you know you've passed that heat level? The marker crayons come in various levels of heat ranges...
    I use something called a TempilStik when disassembling airhead transmissions. The crayons are available in various colors that melt at specified temperatures.
    http://www.tempil.com/thumbnail.asp?cid=22

    McMaster-Carr has a similar generic temperature crayon.
    http://www.mcmaster.com/#temperature-crayons/=cxygvh

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    Registered User nplenzick's Avatar
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    Just had my final drive rebuilt on my 07 with 25K. It didn't make any noise, it never got hot and there was no metal in the oil. My dealer found a certain amount of roughness in it when they were putting tires on my bike. I too felt the roughness once they took the rear tire off. When you spin the rotor you could feel it, couldn't feel it with the wheel on.
    The large bearing is a sealed one and is not lubricated by the gear oil. Take your wheel off and see if you can feel any roughness at all, you shouldn't feel any. It should feel just like the front wheel.

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    Registered User PaulWitt's Avatar
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    Thanks everyone.
    I'm going to put new tires on today and see what it feels like. I do feel a little roughness in the gears without the wheel on, so I may stop my the dealer anyways.
    Oh.......2 weeks out of warranty so I will test the 5 year thing mentioned above.
    Paul Witt
    2008 R1200RT
    Greensboro, NC

  11. #11
    Registered User greenwald's Avatar
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by PaulWitt View Post
    2008 R1200RT with 32K miles.

    This evening after coming home on the bike, I noticed a growling noise from the rear. The rear tire is about 90% worn, but I also noticed the final drive was quite hot. I could still put my hand on it, but it seemed like maybe it was too hot. I don't have anything to judge that by. There appears to be no side to side play in the drive.
    Any thoughts?
    My '05 RT exhibited 'growling' and a super-heated FD housing at 49,000 miles.

    FD had puked. $2,000 to replace. BMW simply offered up $500 in 'sympathy cash' and went on about their business.

    I wish you better luck.

    And no - warranty is till 3 yrs/36k.
    Kevin Greenwald - Touring Tips Editor
    Nationally Certified Law Enforcement Motor Officer (Ret.) / IBA Member #34281
    MSF RiderCoach # 121656 (BRC,SBRC,IS,IME,SMARTrainer)
    Motorcycle/Driving Instructor - ROAD AMERICA Race Track

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    Survivor akbeemer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greenwald View Post
    And no - warranty is till 3 yrs/36k.
    You have harshed my mellow......
    Kevin Huddy
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  13. #13
    hack'd chiba13's Avatar
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    Don't forget the 3/9 & 6/12 checks - hold the wheel on opposite sides & see if you can wiggle it. Pretty solid sign of FD failure if you can move it more than a teensy bit.

    --chiba
    --
    - '05 R1200GS - '98 K1200RS + Hannigan Classic sidecar -

  14. #14
    A bozo on the bus deilenberger's Avatar
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    Paul,

    Please read: http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=46055 - I'm adding that info to your thread title.

    It's also worth checking if your rear brake caliper is dragging. That's almost endemic on the hexheads.. it appears BMW or whoever assembled it failed to lubricate the pins the sliding caliper slides on. Piece of cake to do: remove the brake pads (pull out pin and jiggle them out, you don't have to remove the caliper); Move the caliper all the way in toward the wheel; Pull back the little accordian boots on the pins; Put a small dab of high-temp grease on the pin; Slide the caliper in and out until the grease is spread evenly; Recenter the caliper on the rotor and jiggle the pads back in. Make sure the wheel turns easily.

    I have seen dragging pads cause a very hot rear drive just due to heat being transferred.. and greasing the pins will make the rear pads last longer, give you better fuel mileage (probably..) and lessen the brake dust on the rear wheel.

    FWIW - as far as the infrared thermometer gun - Harbor Freight. It's not a Fluke, but it also only costs about 1/5th the price. Cheap enough to buy for giggles.

    Since you're so close to being under warranty - appealing to your friendly local dealer for assistance (assuming it is the rear drive) should yield results if the dealer has serviced the bike. Chances are less if you DIY, and probably even less if you DIY and didn't buy the materials and supplies from the dealer. Having a record of the required 12k change interval service for the rear drive will help. As Paul Glaves has mentioned many times - it's really up to the dealer if you will get assistance. If they tell BMW you're a good customer, and likely to be a repeat customer, BMW generally coughs up good-will money.

    Good luck, and PLEASE include year/model in the thread titles.
    Don Eilenberger http://www.eilenberger.net
    Spring Lk Heights NJ NJ Shore BMW Riders New Sweden BMW Riders
    '07 R1200R (current ride) and some bimmers.. and a Porsche

  15. #15
    Polarbear Polarbear's Avatar
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    Checked mine, all good:)

    My '07 GSA is at 65000m now and the FD checked out aok this AM. I took the wheel and brake calipre off the bike, to check the feel with no load on it, as suggested above. The bearing had no roughness at all, very smooth. Now, just get me to PA and back! Thanks for the Harbor Frieght tip and I have one of the stores near me. I did a 30 mile ride and found I could touch my FD for more than a few seconds, so its NOT too hot, thanks goodness. Randy, "veteran" FD failure on my last bike, '01KLT1200.

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