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Thread: Oilhead drain plug torn out

  1. #1
    Seattle-area Rounder OfficerImpersonator's Avatar
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    Oilhead drain plug torn out

    10 minutes and 3 miles after leaving my mechanic with a new rear tire and a minor 6K service, I pulled in to a grocery store parking lot. As per my usual custom, I park near the door in the vast concrete apron between the 'road' part of the parking lot and the front door to the store.

    Upon departure, I ride down a short path towards the 'road' part of the parking lot, between two landscaped islands. At the last minute, I realize the path ends in a curb instead of a ramp. In the land of ADA wheelchair ramps and grocery carts, curbs at the end of paths are unusual.

    I've gone off a few curbs before, so once I judged the coast clear, I gave it a little gas to help it clear the edge and get down on to the 'road', perhaps 4" below. I heard a scrape, but assumed it was my center-stand - something I sometimes hear during spirited riding on undulating roads where the suspension bottoms out and the center stand deploys ever-so-slightly due to the g-forces generated by the dip in the road. Forces not entirely different than jumping off a curb.

    About 10 feet and two seconds later, my rear tire feels all squishy, like it's almost completely flat. Since I just got the new rear tire, I think - within a second - crap - something is defective with the new tire/valve stem/installation of the new tire/whatever - I've gotta pull over immediately! I coast in neutral for about a 100 feet to a spot where I can pull out of the lane of traffic, which turns out to be the loading dock for the grocery store. I kill the engine, and put the side stand down.

    In the process of looking down to ensure a solid placement of the side stand, I notice a dark liquid quickly pooling under the bike. I hop off and see the growing lake beneath the bike as well as the trail back towards the curb I mistakenly thought I had cleared. The bike soon stops draining oil, and I find a piece of cardboard on the loading dock to put on top of the pool in a pathetic attempt to absorb the however many quarts of brand new synthetic oil.

    Of course it's 5:30 on a Friday afternoon. I call the shop - no answer. I use my smart phone to find my mechanic's web page, which I know has his cell number on it. I call that number, and the assistant mechanic who I had seen 15 minutes earlier in the shop answers. I explain my situation, and he says he'll show up with the pick-up truck in a few minutes. In the meantime, I call my wife, who is minutes from walking into her hula-hoop class. She reluctantly agrees to come pick me up instead of attend her class.

    When the assistant mechanic arrives, he suggests we go look for the drain plug. We look along the path (well-marked by a trail of oil) and eventually I find it in the gutter. I show it to the wrench, and he observes that it's not a BMW plug. It is an after-market plug that's 3/4" longer than stock. I'd never seen it before, as they've always changed my oil. It has a service nipple on it, so it can be quickly plugged in to systems that purge the oil from the bottom of the engine case. Regardless, it's longer than stock, and thus it sticks down - far and away the lowest thing on the bike next to the center stand.

    Further complicating matters, the engine oil drain plug doesn't plug into an oil pan. It plugs directly in to the engine case itself. When the plug ripped out when I went over the curb, the softer brass plug deformed much more than the harder engine case. Unfortunately, the engine case threads did suffer some ugly damage. Approximately 20% of the threads on the forward edge of the drain hole are gone. The remaining threads are either stripped or deformed. I wish I had taken a photo with my cell phone.

    The assistant mechanic said he thought it looked like a situation where the existing drain plug hole could be machined out to the point where it would accept the larger K-bike drain plug. He spoke as if he'd done this/seen this before, so I'm hopeful there's a relatively simple fix for the combination of my having an unknown-to-me extra-long drain plug and my bone-headed decision to jump my RTP off of a curb rather than jam on the brakes and back down the path.

    The assistant mechanic tells me they'll have an answer for me Tuesday morning, when they re-open. Thankfully, he was able to cart my bike back to the shop for me.

    I'll update this thread Tuesday morning when I know what's being proposed by the experts.
    Seattle, WA
    2012 R1200GSA
    2002 R1150RT-P
    1992 K75S sold

  2. #2
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    good luck on the repair.

    do you regularly touch center stand down in corners? you might want to look at replacing your shocks, or at least fine-tuning their adjustment- i have only once touched anything hard on my bike on the street, and that was a peg feeler (and no, i am not the most "conservative" rider out there)
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

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    If you have full coverage on your bike I'd turn it into your insurance company. Jon

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    Is it correct to assume the shop that installed the incorrect drain plug is paying for repairs?

  5. #5
    Seattle-area Rounder OfficerImpersonator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by davejor View Post
    Is it correct to assume the shop that installed the incorrect drain plug is paying for repairs?
    Since my bike is a RTP and was a RTP demonstrator, I presume the after-market drain plug was added by the dealer/bike preparer to show how the bike could be configured for quick service.

    Had I known of this fact prior to Friday afternoon, I would have immediately replaced the offending part with a stock drain plug.
    Seattle, WA
    2012 R1200GSA
    2002 R1150RT-P
    1992 K75S sold

  6. #6
    Seattle-area Rounder OfficerImpersonator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerfish1100 View Post
    good luck on the repair.

    do you regularly touch center stand down in corners? you might want to look at replacing your shocks, or at least fine-tuning their adjustment- i have only once touched anything hard on my bike on the street, and that was a peg feeler (and no, i am not the most "conservative" rider out there)
    I have a Hyper-Pro rear shock on my bike that's (I think) properly adjusted for my bike and for my weight. My guess is that tighter center stand retention springs might cure this more than anything, although it really isn't that much of a concern for me. It only happens when bottoming out at severe dips in the pavement while traveling at high speed with a heavily-loaded bike (i.e. out moto camping/touring).
    Seattle, WA
    2012 R1200GSA
    2002 R1150RT-P
    1992 K75S sold

  7. #7
    Seattle-area Rounder OfficerImpersonator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkCloud View Post
    If you have full coverage on your bike I'd turn it into your insurance company. Jon
    That is an excellent suggestion I had not considered! Thank you for brightening my outlook should the worst-case scenario (i.e. my engine case is ruined) come to play!
    Seattle, WA
    2012 R1200GSA
    2002 R1150RT-P
    1992 K75S sold

  8. #8
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    You might want to approach curves with dips a little differently. Try braking early, find your apex and maintain power through the curve rather than slamming into a curve and bottoming out the suspension.
    A buddy of mine did that on his GS and broke a mounting tab on the transmission. He had to replace the entire transmission, the tab couldn't be fixed.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by OfficerImpersonator View Post
    I have a Hyper-Pro rear shock on my bike that's (I think) properly adjusted for my bike and for my weight. My guess is that tighter center stand retention springs might cure this more than anything, although it really isn't that much of a concern for me. It only happens when bottoming out at severe dips in the pavement while traveling at high speed with a heavily-loaded bike (i.e. out moto camping/touring).
    this should not be an "i think so" type of deal. you should either know it is correct, or know you need to adjust it, and then do so.
    to the best of my knowledge, there is only 1 set of springs spec'd for the bike, and they should operate correctly. look to see where the CS sits when retracted. can you pull it up by hand higher than it is? if so, there might be an option there. if, as i suspect, it is as far up as it goes, look to address the issue some other way.
    be sure you have adequately adjusted your preload setting to handle the greater weight you are carrying when in touring mode. your sag settings for 2-up & gear should be identical to your sag settings when riding solo.
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

  10. #10
    PrettyGraphic grafikfeat's Avatar
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    Forget the shocks for now...

    Anyone repair a torn drain plug? Going by the fich?® it doesn't look good.

    Aside from Helix... Perhaps an expanding plug?


  11. #11
    Seattle-area Rounder OfficerImpersonator's Avatar
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    Just got a call from my mechanic (Mick Vallantine, Vallantine Motor Works, 3909 Aurora Ave., Seattle).

    They've got the bike up on the lift and it looks good. He is going to grind down the bottom of the engine case until he reaches good threads. He estimates I'll still have four or five interlocking threads holding the drain plug in. He's confident he'll still be able to get a crush washer in there as well. Depending on how the finished product looks, he may apply a couple drops of a weak loc-tite to keep that plug in between oil changes.

    He and his assistant are confident this repair will work, so I'm going to be confident about it as well. He said that when they were talking about the proposed repair, their criteria was "Would you feel confident riding this bike to Prudhoe Bay and back with this repair?". That they both answered "YES" speaks volumes to me.

    I should get her back Wednesday afternoon
    Last edited by OfficerImpersonator; 06-08-2011 at 03:34 AM.
    Seattle, WA
    2012 R1200GSA
    2002 R1150RT-P
    1992 K75S sold

  12. #12
    ABC,AMA(LIFE),MOA,RA,IBMW MANICMECHANIC's Avatar
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    At the shop I work part-time, we have a few times gone oversize on drain plugs. They are available, I believe, from K&L. Some are self-tapping, others require drilling and tapping. We'll grease up the drill and tap to hang on to the chips during the operation.
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  13. #13
    Seattle-area Rounder OfficerImpersonator's Avatar
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    Resolution

    My mechanic was able to grind down the crankcase to accept an OEM drain plug. There were enough intact threads remaining to ensure a snug seal. They took it up to 26kn on the torque wrench under the theory that a failure in the shop is preferable to a failure in the field and everything held fine. 3.5 hours of labor. No charge for a OEM drain plug and the temporary dino oil.

    He wants me to change the oil and filter in 1000 miles in case any metal bits got inside the crankcase during the grinding.

    I've done two days of commuting and a 400 mile ride yesterday and she runs perfectly fine. This is much better resolution than having to seal the old hole and tap out a new one, or the worst-case scenario of having to replace the engine had the crankcase been ruined.
    Seattle, WA
    2012 R1200GSA
    2002 R1150RT-P
    1992 K75S sold

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