Note the increased clearance for the amplifier and other various parts. Should help keep the amp in the airflow. Heat is the killer for old electrics. Reason I'm concerned is way back had a black one, died in a dicey siteration. It had two channels, but the second soon quit too, then it dawned, it was a very hot day in crawling traffic.
The unit would misfire until up to speed. Now it's a paperweight.
I wouldn't think that will help a great deal, but what the heck, it's easy enough to try. It might be more helpful if it was on the front side, but you've just skooched up the rear a bit. Get back to us in another 20 years...let us know the result of the experiement.Originally Posted by 8ninety8
Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
'78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!
These Accel units were mounted as per instructions back in the eighties, almost touching the airbox. After frying a dual channel unit on an R60 one day, and observing how it didn't run, and then run, heat was the usual suspect. So the obvious modifications have been made to this instalation.
Always carry the new Bosch silver coils so that we can go right back to standard ignition, stripping off the Andrews/Accel, if needed. Actually feel more comfortable riding an old bike like an R90, than a computer controlled torque monster. Sort-a like a kerosene lantern when the lights go out.
Went back to position three on the Dels main jet needle. Didn't have the right pull, in my mind, at 5K in third to fifth gears. The stock setting seems always to be the right setting. Miles rolling up, lots of great pull with this bike and cam as it passes through the upper rpm range. Have a perfect ride.
Last edited by 8ninety8; 07-18-2012 at 04:49 PM. Reason: TMI
This is the first I've seen of this thread and your bike, and I have to say it's a beauty.
I do have a question about the Dell-ortos. If you ridden other airheads, is it a big performance bump between those and the Bings?
Have owned R60/5, '84RS, and this S. It's my opinion only, but the accelerator pumps on the Dels give "right now" snap. Again, opinion only, but there must have been a reason for the factory strapping these 38mm carbs on their S bike. The only probs I've had is bad sealing the aluminum venturied intake manifolds in the head threads, and deteriation of the rubber O-rings which seal off the various adjuster screws, top and bowl to carb body.
Like anything, gotta keep heads up, check stuff, keep spare or two, and remember the stock settings in the owners manual, which is where adjustments usually end up.
That third main needle setting really works when asked to pull, it wants the gas. Mileage? Don't bother checking, the more that gits burned the better.
Until the dual plugs, pretty easy to make it ping. Don't know if it'll be around forever, but likely longer than myself. And then the next guy can keep it running.
Tops and bowls are sorta polished, all stock. A guru told me to switch out the 260 jets for the next step up, 262. I gottem, but midrange really seems OK.
This bike is on a budget, it's getting the summer dirty look, it's got plenty of nicks, front wheel even has a strange dent, it's a rider not a collector.
Go to bank, get 15 bucks for lumber buck. May as well start at the beginning. Can't see spending anywhere from 800 to 1500 bucks for european tank. Might be a waste of time, but how hard could it be? Pounding on aluminum, etc.? First need the buck, no buck, don't know what we're doing. All the pounding welding shaping may or may not happen, life's a puzzle, let's get started.
Moving right along, first couple hours. Remember tank is about 58cm long, cut accordingly. CAn aways make a board shorter, not longer.
Last edited by 8ninety8; 08-24-2012 at 04:06 PM.
Next, gotta join it up, and whoa!, finally a use for this old paper weight! Can't squeeze it until it's almost setup.
And a good squeeze after planing joints flat.
Decide on which axis to first shape, make crude curve checking with original tank dimentions, get out planer, make a mess. end of first few hours of work.
Second session, plane opposite side, trace original tank onto buck for second axis hack job.
And, start hacking away with whatever available for the job. end of second session, got about five hours in it so far. INside of old collector tank it's losing its cream coating. Great article about removing old failed tank coatings in new Classic Motorcycle Mechanics mag. Not gonna use any of that methel/ethel/wethel/smethel stuff.
Outstanding! I really like those aluminum tanks and after your comment about it being a good shop project, I've been turning it over in my mind. It would be so much more satisfying to build it yourself. I couldn't figure out how to mold the inside though. Really interesting in watching your project.
Regards,
Barron
On a good note, the color looks like the old BMW folding lock and might deter some thieves.
RPG
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