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Thread: got the R90 out in the sun

  1. #91
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    Getting hot air out of block

    Drilled four more holes in top case cover, enlarged all holes. With additional holes in airbox air flow should be increased through front timing case cover louvers, past diodes, right on back through and out the back of airbox/top cover. In my opinion. Nothin else to do today.
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  2. #92
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    Cleaned up the mirrors, tightened mounts, wiped down Pedone grips. These are the nicest pure rubber handles I've ever twisted.

  3. #93
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    polish a few parts, being true to the mark

    In case falling down at a rally, and need a shave in the morning.
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  4. #94
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    has nothing to do with this bike except

    Always liked head in the breeze. Here's my old long stroke '85 RS, with a K75 fairing, way back in early nineties. Kinda wish I had kept it. WFO it was dangerous fast, in my mind. Yes, that's a Kevin Schwantz helmet. I ran the canister wide open. No social comity back then.
    Last edited by 8ninety8; 04-25-2012 at 03:47 AM. Reason: sp.

  5. #95
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    clearance

    Just had to check it to know for sure. I'm no expert mechanic, and couldn't get a perfect 90 degree shot at the stem, but all clearance was under the .0031" outside spec., and well under the .0058" replacement number. Assuming the measure has to be taken close to the guide. This at 46K, think they'll work OK.

  6. #96
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    Update

    Don't mean to kick a dead horse. Breakin miles rolling up, thought it was running rich, backed mains off 4 steps by dropping needle a notch. Seemed to make no difference in performance, plugs looked a little less black. Gonna check those float bowls just for fun.

    Still thinking those valve guides are not tight enough, but, guess we'll just ride this summer, rack up some miles, if it's running tight, oil OK, just run it somemore. Top of pistons were still shiney.

    In my mind it goes like a streak, probably because we all live within our imaginations. Feels right as it gets the road grime and bug splatter. Oh, and guess what, it's got a tiny smudge of oil seeping from the top front right cylinder base! Can we ever get away from the seep thing? Guess not. Stop me if I'm repeating.

  7. #97
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    And one last look, new black ignition wires, mud flap, that's about it. Brakes seem like we could pull a stoppie. Might see you at the blind lizzard no rally. If I can avoid the perfunctory father's day brunch. Rubber down, head down, give it some gas..
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  8. #98
    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
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    898, that's a substantial ground wire you've got there. I need to install a similar rig on my /5.

    What gauge wire is that, if I may ask. AWG #10, perhaps? Heavier?

    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden

    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner

  9. #99
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    Another Old Beauty. . .

    Very, very nicely done, 898, and your craftsmanship shows at every step of the process.

    Any post-mortem on the weeping cylinder base? From seeing your previous work, I'm certain that you cut NO corners on the job, so this is a mite worrisome. I should add, I wouldn't obsess over a little oil 'patina' at the base and I'm about as "anal" as it comes. To me, it wouldn't be worth it to do it all over again right away, and especially NOT during riding season, but I'm sure others would disagree. Hey, this is why we always carry a rag with us, right?

    I have a specific interest, having just received new Siebenrock cylinders/pistons/rebuilt heads for a '78 R100RS (MS) back from Ted Porter, and am about to use the Loctite at the cylinder/engine case interface. . .

    Thanks for all the great pictures along the way. Lunacy loves company.

    Walking Eagle

  10. #100
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    I took Walking Eagle's tip, sprung for the pink loctite 510, got nailed about 36 bucks. Good product, IMO, must have either missed a spoteroo or accidently touched a spot when assembling. All's clean except for the telltale smudge of grime at that spot on the case. But WTHay, doesn't matter, first rain will clean an engine case everytime.

    As with older vehicles, finding and cleaning all grounds, chasis and engine really helps the elec. system function, IMO. Somewhere read a tip about the several type 247 case interfaces from the front to the rear corroding over the years and building up circuit resistance. I think I used a 12 gauge to run a dedicated negative picking up the main chasis ground on the way retaining the trans ground.

    Left front blinker was a bad ground. Had to give the metal signal holder a wedgy to fix the ground. Happens when you cut the headlight mounts for the CC top triple yoke, maybe a tad short? Would run another wire but it just gets in the way where there is little room.

    It's the little things that BMW didn't or couldn't do. Like enlarging, elongating and smoothing the holes in the rear signal tube holder wire holes so that the wiring doesn't fray and eventually blow a fuse.

    That's all, don't know how this ride will run this summer, but so far it feels OK. Didn't really make any real mods on this bike when you consider the two modified 247s in the latest BMW Mag. Now those guys are really spending the bucks. Just puttered around looking at stuff like everyone else.

    Front 100/90 tire doesn't turn in as fast as a 3.25, live and learn. Dual ignition could self-destruct at anytime, who cares, got back up on board. Valve guides may be too loose, check it out later after a few thousand miles, watch oil consumption and plugs.

    As with anything, trying to make it a bit better than it was, a little firmer, brake a little better, rev a little freer, sound a little looser, run a little easier, but still look like a BMW and keep you in the saddle all day. Less is more, lighter is easier, little is big. Rubber down head down into the fading dusk.
    Last edited by 8ninety8; 05-29-2012 at 11:51 PM.

  11. #101
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    Under the tank thing

    Took a look under tank to check any clearance probs since new stuff added, found rubbing marks, surprizingly shiney and rubbed right through the paint, dabbed on some paint to check after adjusting the stuff.

    Don't know if tank could be breached. Can't be too thorough. I think that's it for this season, except for checking the other usual stuff before every ride. Gotta keep an eye on these classic bikes?

  12. #102
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    Decided to slightly raise the tank rear about 2 to 3 mm with faucet washers. Should work out. Maybe even allow a little more air to the amplifier which needs to be cooled to stay alive.

  13. #103
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8ninety8 View Post
    Decided to slightly raise the tank rear about 2 to 3 mm with faucet washers.
    Now you've done it...you've raised the bike's CG! How with the plastic work against the paint? Do you see any problems there?? Or are the washers rubber as well...
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  14. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    Or are the washers rubber as well...
    Faucet washers ARE rubber.
    Justin in Somerville, MA
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  15. #105
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    A new pair of boots raises the CG more than the washers. I'll ride it around for awhile, check the tank again. Just didn't like seeing the bottom of a tank that been sitting on a bike since 1973 with alot of rub marks. The two at the huge rubber wire loom grommet near the front are of no concern. Never really noticed the others so were painted to be checked later. A couple mm should solve any more scratches.

    Wonder if the early tank pans are different from later 24 litre tanks? The '74 S was the debute of this "shocking" new design.

    Now for look at the seat pan, after another 50 mile spin out into the country. Old motorcycles, a gift that never quits giving.
    Last edited by 8ninety8; 06-04-2012 at 05:37 PM. Reason: grammer?

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