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Thread: Complete Restoration of BMW R75/5 into Cafe Racer

  1. #361
    Rally Rat
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    Status

    Quote Originally Posted by Lmo1131 View Post
    Sooo o .. .. what's going on in the "rear set" fabricating department?
    Josh is getting everything ready for powder coating, he is on vacation in Mexico right now and enjoying the waves, he is a big surfer. He is a jack of all trades really. Pretty neat fellow, never met him, but I have every intention of flying to Southern California when the bike is done and meet him and take it for the first spin. Maybe spend a day or two at Pelican Hill, my wife just loves that resort, let kids play in the sand while Dad checks out the bike, we will see what 2012 brings but hopefully we will finish the bike this coming year. Happy New Years everyone, I will keep you up to date as we go forward. Paul from the Vintagent is going to call Dane next week and get some information for the story with any luck, takes some months for him to finalize and put everything to paper from what it sounds.

    thanks again every,
    Shane

  2. #362
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    Mounting Rear Sets

    Josh did another tech update for the rear sets before powder coating the frame, check it out:

    http://beemersandbits.com/2012/01/re...t-preparation/

    Like on the Porsche, we are filling in any holes in the body that are never going to be used again.

    Thanks for continuing to follow,
    Shane
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #363
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    Yea, it's those little things that set a cool resto apart from run of the mill ones.

  4. #364
    Simpleman
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    Looking good, thanks for sharing .

  5. #365
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    Header Pipes for Jet Hot

    I ordered our header pipes today, they are going to be sent directly to Jet Hot for coating. I very much want to prevent the discoloration of the exhaust from the heat and Jet Hot is the way to go.

    http://www.beemershop.com/catalog/pr...8d957f79e49589

    Thanks for continuing to follow,

    Sincerely,
    Shane

  6. #366
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    Photo

    Here is a photo of the exhaust, I believe it is fron Europe.

    Thanks,
    Shane
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  7. #367
    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
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    Keihan =
    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden

    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner

  8. #368
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    Quote Originally Posted by balkowitsch View Post
    Here is a photo of the exhaust, I believe it is fron Europe.

    Thanks,
    Shane
    I have Keihin mufflers and am getting some Keihin headers. Very well made products.

  9. #369
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    British

    Quote Originally Posted by Lmo1131 View Post
    Cool, I did not have time to research the source, British is all good.

    Thanks,
    Shane

  10. #370
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    Drive Shafts Pulled from Swingarms

    Josh did a little more disassembly getting us one step closer to powder coating the frame, have a great weekend,

    Thanks,
    Shane
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  11. #371
    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
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    Shane,

    I know one thing for sure, from personal experience ... while the "coupler bell" on the end of the drive shaft, can be removed with a good puller, a little heat, and a dead-blow hammer, reinstalling them, with 150-180 ft. lbs. of torque (as spec'd) will require the BMW tool to keep it from rotating while torque is applied to the nut. The mating taper-fit on the end of the drive shaft, and the inside of the bell, is the only thing that secures that joint; there are no splines, or key. If it's not blue-torqued on there is a pretty good chance that it will break loose and spin.

    Locking up the u-joint end, to torque the bell, is risky because it was designed with no more than the torque of the engine/gearbox in mind, roughly 43 ft. lbs. (58 N?Àm); between this and the drive shaft itself loading up (twisting) and disrupting torque-wrench indications, it's not an accurate way to go about reassembly.

    After I took mine apart for painting I ended up shipping the whole thing up to Ted Porter to ensure that the bell was properly torqued.

    Just another niggley little detail to be thinking about while the swing arm is being painted.
    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden

    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner

  12. #372
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    Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by Lmo1131 View Post
    Shane,

    I know one thing for sure, from personal experience ... while the "coupler bell" on the end of the drive shaft, can be removed with a good puller, a little heat, and a dead-blow hammer, reinstalling them, with 150-180 ft. lbs. of torque (as spec'd) will require the BMW tool to keep it from rotating while torque is applied to the nut. The mating taper-fit on the end of the drive shaft, and the inside of the bell, is the only thing that secures that joint; there are no splines, or key. If it's not blue-torqued on there is a pretty good chance that it will break loose and spin.

    Locking up the u-joint end, to torque the bell, is risky because it was designed with no more than the torque of the engine/gearbox in mind, roughly 43 ft. lbs. (58 N?Àm); between this and the drive shaft itself loading up (twisting) and disrupting torque-wrench indications, it's not an accurate way to go about reassembly.

    After I took mine apart for painting I ended up shipping the whole thing up to Ted Porter to ensure that the bell was properly torqued.

    Just another niggley little detail to be thinking about while the swing arm is being painted.
    Thanks for the head up, Josh reads this thread so he is aware of any pointers sent our way, it is much appreciated, thanks for following,

    Shane

  13. #373
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    Clean Up - BEFORE PICTURE

    Josh did some elbow grease on the Final Drive, getting ready for paint as well.

    Thanks,
    Shane
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  14. #374
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    Exterior

    After a little cleaning.
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  15. #375
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    Internal Before Cleaning

    As purchased
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