not sure what to do

[Yarddog]

Well, I am not exactly a light guy. I really don't care if I get a few extra miles out of a tire, although I seem to be getting about what others seem to get out of similar tires.

While I don't claim to be an expert I DO have some experience (21 years in the motorcycle business and riding for 44 years). What I have found over time is that generally speaking, the closer to max tire pressure (within 5% or less) I keep my tires the better my bikes seem to handle.

Of course YMMV.

P.S Most of the bikes that I have dealt with that had handling issues or odd tire wear problems almost always had low tire pressure when I checked. Some of them were as close as within 15% (40 PSI recommended max but down to 32), when I raised the pressure the wobble went away. Some of this is obviously the individual tire characteristics, but generally I'll stick with my statement. check tire pressure and go for a test ride before you start disassembling your bike.

And one more thing........wasn't the OP talking about being on a trip, which would imply that the bike was loaded down?

Hey, if it works for you, head on!!! I'm a pretty heavy fella too, and my GF often rides with me, and I use 32 PSI as a baseline...good compromise between wear, handling, and comfort...but then again, I'm not a guy that's gonna whip out the slide rule and do a ton of research to see if 32.5 PSI is actually a LEEEETLLLE bit better than 32.6 PSI!!! That's not why I ride...

[sgborgstrom]

Hoo boy...from tires to tire pressure in 15 posts?

Here's what I've noticed over decades of motorcycling and many years of internet forum surfing: Tires and their effect on handling are highly subjective. The variables, to name a few, range from riding style, size of rider, condition of local roadways, choice of handlebars tire pressure a a host of others unique to each bike/rider/load combination.

Some very broad generalizations can be made about what works best but ultimately the rider is going to have to put miles under their butt testing out the range of options available. It is somewhat helpful that the range of tires suitable for a 35 year old motorcycle is limited, but that does not eliminate the need for empirical testing.

To the OP: Take heart, there is a tire out there for you and I say that as someone with over 100k miles of airhead riding (plus another 100k or so on other types, not bragging; I've been using bikes as main transport for 28 years, the miles add up in small increments) you "just" have to filter the results you get here and go riding.

Don't give up!

[miairhead]

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/section5.htm

This may not all that up to date, but he states the Mez lasertec have a similar problem, follow rain groves.

"Bridgestone: S-11 Spitfires (110 rear, 90 or 100 front). My favorite tire these days, all things considered."

[gstom]

In general, pavements are grooved to provide a smoother ride for cars and to correct irregularities due to contractor errors in paving. The majority of grooved pavements are on Interstate highways and high volume divided four lane non-interstate routes.

As an airhead, perhaps your solution lies in avoiding these types of highways when possible and sticking more to "back roads" and lesser travelled by-ways.

It has been said that the Interstates are to best way to NOT see America.

[bikerfish1100]

Agree that in general, getting off the I-States is a good thing, unless you just gotta make miles.

However, i'd always understood the grooves in pavement to be cut in to help shuttle water away to prevent hydroplaning. http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...2013737AAyf3cp which might be why the most likely place to find such fun is on curves on the I-State.

[mneblett]

In general, pavements are grooved to provide a smoother ride for cars and to correct irregularities due to contractor errors in paving.

They're grooved as an anti-hydroplaning measure -- the grooves give the water a place to go. You can still drive too fast for the amount of water present, but the grooves at least delay the on-set of hydroplaning, and their edges can give the tires something to bite on in response to a steering input.

[PGlaves]

Some concrete pavements are indeed grooved to facilitate drainage, minimize puddles, and minimize hydroplaning. But worse yet is milled asphalt pavement, usually milled either to remove humps (short stretches), to remove the center between rutted wheel tracks, or in preparation for the overlay of about 3 new inches of asphalt. Milled asphalt can go on for miles and be disconcerting for almost any bike - stiff forks and excellent tire tread design not withstanding. Milling machine drivers don't always drive in very straight lines.

[Radar41]

Chuck,

Do not know what part of the country you are in, however I would offer these suggestions.

1. If you are not a member of the Airheads Beemer Club, then join.

https://www.airheads.org/index.php?o...airhead_signup

Check the tech tips page:

https://www.airheads.org/content/category/3/77/98/

2. Find a local Airhead Tech day and attend, get to know the Airheads in your area.

The Airheads are a pretty knowledgeable group about these old machines, as you see from the responses to your posting, and will be more than happy to help a fellow "Head" in trouble.

3. + 1 on the suggestion for Snowbum's site - a wealth of information:

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/techindex.htm

4. This forum is also an excellent source of info as you have seen.

Once your "Airhead" is set up and running correctly, it will return many miles and years of faithfull service.

good luck,

radar

[kwb210]

I too have decided to ride my older bike, 1977 R100/7, rather than get a newer one. With the financing available at the BMW dealerships I could probably swing a brand new bike. I rode to the International Rally in OR last year and took advantage of the test rides on the brand new machines. Wow, they are really something else, really enjoyed riding them. BUT, I decided I really like my 1977 bike. So after last year and 12,000 miles I decided I really like my 1977 bike. I mean I really like it! So, I replaced the steering head bearings, the grease was really thick and not doing its job, then replaced the swing arm bearings, a brand new Avon AM26 Roadrider tire and I am for the most part pretty satifisied with my bike. AND, I have so little invested. AND, most any mechanic in the world can work on it. I plan on many more miles on this bike. I think the older bikes just take a bite more effort. For me the difference in money, a rather huge difference, still does not make me want to move to a newer bike at this point. I plan on riding all 48 lower states, after that is done I will expand my horizons and make plans to travel even farther, I feel pretty comfortable on this older bike.
Kurt

PS: this winter I am doing the heads and replacing the rings, also a number of other preventive items, they are all rather easy to do.
I did not mention my bike has 84,000 miles on the speedo.