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Thread: 2005 R1200GS heated grips not working?

  1. #1
    MasterChiefmas
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    2005 R1200GS heated grips not working?

    It's winter here where I am, so I can't ride, but I decided to test a suspicion. I started my bike up, and set the heated grips to the max setting and let it run that way for about 10 minutes. I went back out and checked it, and the grips don't feel any warmer.

    So, is that a valid way to test my grips, and assuming it is, how do I go about tracking down if and where the problem is?

    A side question, are the heating elements within the rubber grips themselves, or are they part of the handle bars? Because if they are in the grips themselves, that's likely the problem, as I need to get some replacement grips for the bike. Which reminds me, I should go order those up.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Polarbear Polarbear's Avatar
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    In the grips;

    I think you buy these as a unit, grips and all, but have never had a set fail on my many beemers. I don't know if the grips may be in a fuse or similar breaker circuit, but you may research the fuse thing. On high setting, they should get hot, as I have to turn my grips back to low setting, they get "hot". I have CUT my rubber grips off before on previous bikes and seen the heating element underneath and its a pretty robust setup, as i changed out my rubber grips only. It is not part of the handlebars...My personal thought is its not likely to fail, so look for a fuse somewhere. The thought of a safety fuse inline in itself would indicate they could fail I guess! Good luck. Randy

  3. #3
    MasterChiefmas
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    Hmm well according to the manual, there are no fuses, so if there was one, it would have been added after the fact. I didn't see any obvious inline fuses at a cursor glance. I'll have to take the tank cover off and some of the fairing to see follow the wiring more.

    The bike doesn't indicate any faults on the lcd, though I don't know if it would if there was a problem with the hand grips.

    I'll keep looking.
    Thanks!

  4. #4
    Benchwrenching PGlaves's Avatar
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    Usually the wires break and go open. Most often on the throttle side where they move a lot. Failure at both grips should not be expected. So, you need to remove the fuel tank and then trace where the wires connect into the harness. Try tracing the wiring and see if you can find the connection before you pull the stuff/tank off. Probably not but worth a try.

    Once you find the connection(s) test for +12v with the switch on. Since that is a resistive circuit I'm not sure what the high vs low readings are supposed to be but anything significantly above zero - say 8 or more volts - indicates power is getting that far (or not). If needed keep tracing till you find where it is lost.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
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  5. #5
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    Remember that this is a low wattage setup - a better check function test is to put it on high and keep your bare hand on the grips for a couple minutes. If it doesn't get warm/hot, its surely dead. Then its time for the VOM and wire tracing.

    How often does this turn out to be a switch problem? Either that or a common connector would be in my thinking if both grips are dead.

  6. #6
    Benchwrenching PGlaves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by racer7 View Post
    Remember that this is a low wattage setup - a better check function test is to put it on high and keep your bare hand on the grips for a couple minutes. If it doesn't get warm/hot, its surely dead. Then its time for the VOM and wire tracing.

    How often does this turn out to be a switch problem? Either that or a common connector would be in my thinking if both grips are dead.
    His first test was "on" for about 10 minutes that didn't do anything. I think it is a tossup between the switch and the connector - or even upstream from the connector. The connections tend to be fragile. Two tiny two-wire connectors plugged into a equally tiny 4 pin connector. I had enough trouble with mine on a K bike that I cut the connectors off and soldered the connections.

    A fairly easy way to test the switch is to try low looking for warm and then try high. A switch could be bad in both positions but I don't think that is very likely.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
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  7. #7
    MasterChiefmas
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    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    A fairly easy way to test the switch is to try low looking for warm and then try high. A switch could be bad in both positions but I don't think that is very likely.
    Good call...it hadn't even occurred to me to try the test on warm. I'll do that now.

  8. #8
    MasterChiefmas
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    So also on the lower setting nothing seems to happen. So either the whole switch has failed or I've got a wiring issue?

  9. #9
    Benchwrenching PGlaves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MasterChiefmas View Post
    So also on the lower setting nothing seems to happen. So either the whole switch has failed or I've got a wiring issue?
    Which would cause me to head straight to the harness connection to start testing there.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://www.bigbend.net/users/glaves

  10. #10
    Registered User mistercindy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    Usually the wires break and go open. Most often on the throttle side where they move a lot.
    That's what happened to my throttle grip last April. The bike had around 70,000 miles. Since it was getting warm I left it alone during the summer until my 78,000 mile service. The grip had to be replaced and the cost was around $125-$150 at the dealership including labor. Now it works like a charm, except the throttle grip is less worn than the other!

    One side note... A good friend of mine is a dedicated Harley rider, member of HOG, etc... His bike is always spotless. He hasn't bought heated grips because he can't find grips that properly match his pegs! When I told him that I replaced my right grip he was shocked that I didn't replace both so they'd match!
    Grant
    '05 R1200GS
    Former owner of an '03 R1150R
    BMWMOA #113847

  11. #11
    KEVIN P
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    Just a thought. My 08GS owners manual read that at a low speed (idle) the grips will shut OFF to enable the battery to be charged properly. I think before you go ripping the bike apart looking for bad wires and such. Take her for a ride and get the rev's up a bit. I know mine have shut OFF on a ride at lower city speeds then kicked back ON again. Good luck.

  12. #12
    not so retired henzilla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin p View Post
    Just a thought. My 08GS owners manual read that at a low speed (idle) the grips will shut OFF to enable the battery to be charged properly. .
    Bingo...I believe we have a winner...load shedding at low RPM
    Steve Henson
    SABMWRA MOA Club#62's Flat Fixer/ current forum moderator
    It's not the breaths you take, but the moments that take your breath away-D.Dillon/G. Strait

  13. #13
    not so retired henzilla's Avatar
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    Have not pulled my 09 GS manual out...but I have an 05 K12S one here and it says the grips shut off if battery voltage is low to ensure starting capability on this model.
    Steve Henson
    SABMWRA MOA Club#62's Flat Fixer/ current forum moderator
    It's not the breaths you take, but the moments that take your breath away-D.Dillon/G. Strait

  14. #14
    A bozo on the bus deilenberger's Avatar
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    I think perhaps what's being missed here - this is a Canbus bike, meaning the heated grips are controlled by the ZFE module, the switch is a low-voltage device that sends a signal to the ZFE module, and the two temperature ranges are probably done the same way Heatroller does it - by switching the voltage on/off electronically. There is no longer the dropping resistive wire goober under the tank like K bikes (and I believe oilheads) used, and the controls don't carry the current the older bike controls did.

    Analog troubleshooting will only go so far here.. Dunno what the GS-911 has for this function, but it would be interesting to hook it up and see if it can read the signals from the switch to the ZFE (it can on many other switches on the bike..) and it can read the output from the ZFE to the grip wiring.
    Don Eilenberger http://www.eilenberger.net
    Spring Lk Heights NJ NJ Shore BMW Riders New Sweden BMW Riders
    '07 R1200R (current ride) and some bimmers.. and a Porsche

  15. #15
    MasterChiefmas
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    Well, with re: to battery voltage, I have been keeping it topped off with a battery tender(came wired with quick connect, but I checked, its connected directly to the battery terminals), so it should have good voltage shouldn't it? Unless they are shut off if the alternator is also not putting out a lot of voltage?

    So it may not be possible to verify if I don't have the engine revved a bit?

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