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Thread: r1150gs rear rotor replacement

  1. #1
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    r1150gs rear rotor replacement

    I'm a novice mechanic considering replacing the rear rotor on my '02 R1150GS (ABS). I've replaced the pads myself with no problems. The manual makes the rotor replacement look pretty straightforward. I thought it would be harder. Any pitfalls I should be concerned about? I've made my share of blunders in the past.

    By the way I'll get my replacement rotor from Beemerboneyard...love that place.

    -Mike

  2. #2
    Nickname: Droid
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    I guess, why do you have to replace the rear disc at all? Is it heavily scored or warpped? My 94 R1100RS has over 148,000 miles on it, and I still the the original discs front and rear, the bike stops just fine. And I regularly test my braking with high effort stops. The front discs measure about .170" thick and the rear disc measures about .180" thick. I have replaced the front brake pads three times in that mileage, rear brake pads twice. I have replaced the front rotor carrier bobbins also. And I am an avid braker, using both brakes almost all the time.

    Sure, they have some scoring, but nothing bad.

    How many miles on your bike? Really high miles?

    As far as doing the work, its mostly simple/common hand tools. But you will need a decent torque wrench to insure all the fasteners are properly torqued.

  3. #3
    Lucky motorradmike's Avatar
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    Hi Mike:

    What Andy said.

    I got my bike used with 20k miles on it and the rear pads completely worn out. Methinks the PO had his foot on the back brake all the time.
    Mike Marr
    1978 Yamaha XS750 (Needs rings), 1996 BMW R1100RS, 2004 Honda CRF230F

  4. #4
    Bluenoser
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    In mm terms the rear's minimun thickness is 4.5 mm. On my bike with about 40000 miles the rear is at about 4.67 or so.

    Your .170 & .180 are right at the 4.5 mm minium level and most likely should be replaced soon.
    1971 R50/5 SWB with R75/6 drivetrain
    2013 DL650

  5. #5
    Nickname: Droid
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    I'll agree, but I will ride this season out on the discs on my bike.

  6. #6
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    I bought the bike with around 18,000 miles. I think the rear pads were about worn out and I scored the rotors before I really got on top of the maintenance. There are what feel like rather deep grooves in the rotor...I'll have to measure to see what the thickness actually is. On the outer edge of the rotor where the pads don't rub there is what feels to the hand like maybe a 1.5 or 2 mm ridge on each side. I guess the good thing is it is even on both sides of the rotor. No ridge on the front rotors. I'll get a gauge on it and see what I'm really looking at.

    I try and use both brakes but might use the rear more than I should. I do tend to drag the rear brake down my steep gravel drive.
    -Mike

  7. #7
    gerzinam
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    Don't feel bad I just received a new EBC SS rotor for my 2002 R1150R with ABS at 19,000 miles. The dealer told me to order all new fasteners each time the rotor is replaced. I have not checked torque requirements but suspect it will be in two steps
    Mike

  8. #8
    Bluenoser
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    The only real problem I've found in trying to replace the rear brake rotor is in getting the bolts hot enough to release the lock tight. The bolts are fairly large but have a small allen recessed head that is easy to strip. You have to remove the plate from the rear end to be able to replace the rotor

    Anybody out there who's done this that can advise how long to heat the bolts. I know the manual says 120 C but its hard to know how long using a small butane torch this would take.
    1971 R50/5 SWB with R75/6 drivetrain
    2013 DL650

  9. #9
    taller than wide GRANTMACEACHERN's Avatar
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    It's a piece of cake.
    Just take your time heating up the bolts and yes, order new hardware.
    I like to carefully clean out the threads of any residual locktite before installing.
    I put a Braking USA Wave rotor on mine. I think the pads are Galfer, maybe EBC. I tried the sintered on the rear and they grabbed so hard the ABS always engaged. I swapped out to organic pads. Great now.
    g r a n t

  10. #10
    gerzinam
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    Grant
    Now you got me concerned I just bought a set of EBC sintered pads for front and rear ofmy 1150R

  11. #11
    Bluenoser
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    My bike doesn't have ABS so I went with sintered on the front & ceramic on the rear. They seen to work fine.

    I had about 25 % + left on the rear rotor so I just replaced the pads. I didn't have enough time left to fight with stubborn bolts. Mine would not release no matter how much I heated them etc. So it can wait until I get back.
    1971 R50/5 SWB with R75/6 drivetrain
    2013 DL650

  12. #12
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    rear rotor changed

    Changed the rotor yesterday... no problems. I didn't have to heat to release the bolts, they came off rather easy. Seem to function OK,haven't dome more than test in the drive. I'll do the break-in procedure recommended by the manufacturer.
    I use sintered pads. Thanks for the advise

  13. #13
    gerzinam
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    Will work on mine this weekend

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