I recently mounted these up. Thought I'd show them off!
Wunderlich Bars = $299
MC Enterprises pegs = $19
Ability to stretch out and safely drop the bike at the same time = priceless
I recently mounted these up. Thought I'd show them off!
Wunderlich Bars = $299
MC Enterprises pegs = $19
Ability to stretch out and safely drop the bike at the same time = priceless
Last edited by alien_hitchhiker; 08-16-2007 at 02:07 AM.
DOHP If I had known about those before the ELF Pegs, I would have done that. As I have dropped the RT I have had to replace the ELF PegsOriginally Posted by steve-o
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-=Brad
It isn't what you ride, it is if you ride
It attaches at six points; three per side. A long bolt passes through an open channel at the front of the underpan, this serves as the attachment point for the lower front of the bars. The upper fronts attach on each side to the fairing mounting points and is also linked by a cross bar passing in front of the alternator belt cover, just below the telelever. The rear ends attach to the center stand bracket (this is the only one you can make out from the pic-the bit of chrome down by the centerstand. All the other hardware is hidden by the fairing. You can see the small cutouts that were required at the belly pan and lower edge of the side panels. Whole thing took me about four (very careful) hours. Tidy installation & looks like it should do the job.
Steve
Last edited by alien_hitchhiker; 08-16-2007 at 02:07 AM.
Another view.
Last edited by alien_hitchhiker; 08-16-2007 at 02:07 AM.
So if you need to take the plastic off, you have to take off the guards?
-=Brad
It isn't what you ride, it is if you ride
Yes. To completely remove the side panels the bars must come off. I'm estimating total off/on time for the bars at no more than 15 minutes (bet I can do it in ten). It's nothing like the initial install as the cross bar & upper "sub brackets" will remain in place. A whole lot of the initial 4 hour install was just fussing with it to assure perfect alignment before making the cutouts on the fairing. Steve
Like Steve, I installed the Wunderlich engine bars.
Compared to those (ugly?) plastic guards most people use, the W-bars look stock and will provide better protection in a tip-over.
Bought 'em from the good folk at Santa Cruz BMW (no affiliation).
I'm very satisfied with the product, but if you are considering it, please note the following:
1- The supplied instructions could be better. However, the assembly process is fairly intuitive; just take your time, and mock-up the parts as you go.
2- You have to remove both fairing side panels, the shark fins, the belly pan and the fuel tank.
3- You have to make various cuts to the fairing plastic (ouch!) to install the bars. Paper templates are provided with the instructions. Although cutting the fairing may seem daunting, if you do it right, you will hardly notice the cuts. Use a Dremel (and appropriate bits) to make the cuts. A jig saw or similar tool will not work very well. Cut according to the templates, and expect to nibble a bit more here and there. Small files will be useful to get the cuts perfect.
4- Once the fairing parts are cut correctly, the bars should bolt up without difficulty. At this stage you will find out if there is any interference from the fairing, requiring a bit more trimming. When all the fasteners are tight, the bars are very secure and rigid.
5- The installed bars do not hamper valve adjustments or oil/filter changes. However, you must remove the bars first if you wish to remove the faring sides for other work. You might consider carrying the specific tools required to remove the bars in your on-board tool kit, just in case.
If any members need help installing the Wunderlich bars, please PM me, and I'll try to assist.
Cheers, LeRoux
2002 R1150 RT "Titan Silver"