Okay, enough said: you get what you pay for, and it's time to brace myself for the price tag and find a really good BMW painter here in San Diego get serious about the finish on this bike...Originally Posted by kmkahuna
Okay, enough said: you get what you pay for, and it's time to brace myself for the price tag and find a really good BMW painter here in San Diego get serious about the finish on this bike...
Throw those things away. They do not work. If your front end is rebuilt correctly to BMW specs you will have no dive problems. The anti dive springs are to stiff and will eliminate all of your low speed damping.
Buy a good front end rebuild kit and a good set of fork springs-not Progressive brand.
www.boxermetal.com
www.facebook.com/boxermetal
VBMWMO #7770, BMW MOA #48694, ABC #600
Hi my name is Chris and I am a slash-five-o-holic.
Well, I'm back at it! Put the forks back on temporarily, and noticed they're leaking from the copper crush washers at the bottom. I plan on taking them and my drive shaft to the auto shop on base where they have the tools to get 90ft lbs with a socket: I don't have that here in my garage...
Kurt -
Have you been watching this thread?
http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50280
Might come in handy.
Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
'78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!
Yep, I read through it. Sort of amazing that what with all the "german engineering" brouhaha, you still have to put thread sealant on these things...I would have thought that copper washer would have certainly done the trick.
While I was mulling over the fork bottom question, thought I'd post another question as well. I loosened the nut on the drive shaft awhile back, thinking I needed to remove the drive shaft, and turns out I didn't have to. However, I now have a nut that needs torque-ing back to 150ftlbs if the forums are right...Question is: can I do this without having to pull the U-joint? An uneccessary job, I know, but gotta get 'er done..
Not sure how you loosened the nut. I'd probably re-tighten the same way. It's most likely that the nut needs to be really Tight. I know there are torque values for every fastener ever made. Sometimes really tight will work. How many carry a torque wrench for roadside repairs?
'73 R75/5
Never had a bad day skiing!
I have done this a time or two. I'm not saying this is "correct". but every time I have pulled a big nut on an airhead, a nut requiring that kind of torque, I would lock it into a solid vise and lean on it as hard as I can. I know this is heresy and I expect to be burned down, But I have several thousand miles on airheads that I failed to achieve perfect, high torque values.
My take on it is this: Foot/pound wrenches serve to make sure you don't UNDERTIGHTEN a fastener, and inch/pound torque wrenches are used to make sure you don't OVER-TIGHTEN a fastener.
Just because I get away with this sort of thinking doesn't mean that you will be O.K. with it, but I get away with it.
good luck.
James A. Strickland
the "A" is for .........
If I couldn't ride an AIRHEAD, I'd quit riding
Tires are mounted and balanced, wheels are painted, bearings have been replaced and pre-loaded, thanks to Mike V. and his great system of bearing installation! All the white parts are at a great shop named "Speedzone" ( http://www.speedzonepaint.com/), where Brad is going to put a fantastic finish on those pieces, and in the meantime, I am starting to put the little pieces back together into one...big..piece.
Aw crap....
After powdercoating, apparently they did not tape the u-joint as well as I did when I gave it to them...
Now what? Is this salvageable? Take it to a shop and have a pro disassemble and replace anything?
Dave is going to put in a new drive shaft for me for an amazingly low price....Thanks DCM Service, in Santee, right up the 52 from my house...
http://www.dcmwmcservice.com/
Kurt, how "amazing" is his amazing price?
http://www.machineservice.com/
$160 from these guys for an airhead driveshaft rebuild with new u-joint. compared to every other quote i've heard quoted, $160 is stupid amazing. (about the same for an oilhead, with a zerk fitting installed as well)
Ride Safe, Ride Lots
Well, add shipping, add pressing the bell housing on and off, and we've got an amazing price.. Oh, and also add the benefit of Dave being right down the street from me, and no waiting time...Yep, I got a great deal!
and if someone else wanted Dave to do this job for them? do you have to be a member of some private club to get his amazing deal?
(I'm not asking for me, i already had MSI do 2 of my driveshafts, but i'm usually looking out for other beemerphiles as well)
Ride Safe, Ride Lots
I think Dave is a straight up kind of guy, so I probably had no special treatment at all... Dave was recommended to me by the Airhead SOCAL Air Marshall, Gary Jackson, and he had FOUR airheads outside his shop when I got there, that just got in this week for all sorts of work...Glad Gary mentioned him!
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