Buy a good front end rebuild kit and a good set of fork springs-not Progressive brand.
Well, I'm back at it! Put the forks back on temporarily, and noticed they're leaking from the copper crush washers at the bottom. I plan on taking them and my drive shaft to the auto shop on base where they have the tools to get 90ft lbs with a socket: I don't have that here in my garage...
Have you been watching this thread?
Might come in handy.
Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
'78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!
While I was mulling over the fork bottom question, thought I'd post another question as well. I loosened the nut on the drive shaft awhile back, thinking I needed to remove the drive shaft, and turns out I didn't have to. However, I now have a nut that needs torque-ing back to 150ftlbs if the forums are right...Question is: can I do this without having to pull the U-joint? An uneccessary job, I know, but gotta get 'er done..
Not sure how you loosened the nut. I'd probably re-tighten the same way. It's most likely that the nut needs to be really Tight. I know there are torque values for every fastener ever made. Sometimes really tight will work. How many carry a torque wrench for roadside repairs?
Never had a bad day skiing!
I have done this a time or two. I'm not saying this is "correct". but every time I have pulled a big nut on an airhead, a nut requiring that kind of torque, I would lock it into a solid vise and lean on it as hard as I can. I know this is heresy and I expect to be burned down, But I have several thousand miles on airheads that I failed to achieve perfect, high torque values.
My take on it is this: Foot/pound wrenches serve to make sure you don't UNDERTIGHTEN a fastener, and inch/pound torque wrenches are used to make sure you don't OVER-TIGHTEN a fastener.
Just because I get away with this sort of thinking doesn't mean that you will be O.K. with it, but I get away with it.
James A. Strickland
the "A" is for .........
If I couldn't ride an AIRHEAD, I'd quit riding
Tires are mounted and balanced, wheels are painted, bearings have been replaced and pre-loaded, thanks to Mike V. and his great system of bearing installation! All the white parts are at a great shop named "Speedzone" ( http://www.speedzonepaint.com/), where Brad is going to put a fantastic finish on those pieces, and in the meantime, I am starting to put the little pieces back together into one...big..piece.
After powdercoating, apparently they did not tape the u-joint as well as I did when I gave it to them...
Now what? Is this salvageable? Take it to a shop and have a pro disassemble and replace anything?
Kurt, how "amazing" is his amazing price?
$160 from these guys for an airhead driveshaft rebuild with new u-joint. compared to every other quote i've heard quoted, $160 is stupid amazing. (about the same for an oilhead, with a zerk fitting installed as well)
Ride Safe, Ride Lots
and if someone else wanted Dave to do this job for them? do you have to be a member of some private club to get his amazing deal?
(I'm not asking for me, i already had MSI do 2 of my driveshafts, but i'm usually looking out for other beemerphiles as well)
Ride Safe, Ride Lots