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Thread: Gold Valve Emulator

  1. #16
    Registered User gertiektn's Avatar
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    When I was a kid and too poor to have a rifle cleaning rod... we used clean our rifles, and shot guns with a lengthy piece of twine and old piece of towel and pull it through... It worked and was easy to carry in the field. You can add a pull stick tied to the twine to add pulling power. We used a 3/4 X 3" piece tied to the twine.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by gertiektn View Post
    When I was a kid and too poor to have a rifle cleaning rod... we used clean our rifles, and shot guns with a lengthy piece of twine and old piece of towel and pull it through... It worked and was easy to carry in the field. You can add a pull stick tied to the twine to add pulling power. We used a 3/4 X 3" piece tied to the twine.
    Thanks, after doing each rod twice, washing them in the sink with soap and water proved very effective.
    61 Gold Star, 76 R90S, 03 CBR600RR, '13 690 Duke, '14 Street Triple R

  3. #18
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    And now a ride report. It's taken a while as I experimented with changing the compression damping via the spring preload and the rebound via fork fluid. Ultimately, I ended up very close to RaceTech's suggested settings -- 2 turns of preload and 15w fork oil.

    I am very pleased with results. To be sure, the ride is sport bike firm but with more than adequate bump compliance. The bike feels much more stable and planted in turns. I would do this again (especially since it would be much easier the second time).
    61 Gold Star, 76 R90S, 03 CBR600RR, '13 690 Duke, '14 Street Triple R

  4. #19
    Registered User j_withers's Avatar
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    Hey Gang, I am trying to wrap my head around the 15W fork oil. It seems extremely heavy for a 1972 /5 BMW. Is it due to the Widened holes on the dampener rod?

    I put my forks together with the gold valve, added 15w, but haven't ridden the bike yet. The forks however feel extremely stiff. I'm going to take them apart today and make sure nothing is binding before i take it for a ride.

    -josh

  5. #20
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    See my last post on the first page. If you're taking it apart again, might as well add some extra holes to the damping rod to make sure you have enough oil flow through there. You can't have too much as the Gold Valve will control the damping, but you do have to make sure you have completely defeated the stock damping circuit. And it will feel stiff in the garage, particularly if you put in the RaceTech springs. Just ride it and see how it feels.
    61 Gold Star, 76 R90S, 03 CBR600RR, '13 690 Duke, '14 Street Triple R

  6. #21
    Registered User j_withers's Avatar
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    I did all the drilling during assembly the first time. I don't think I need to do any more.

    Today I drained the 15W oil.
    I also realized that there was a serious gap (1.5 inches) between the Race Tech springs and upper fork cap. I increased the PVC spacers and used 5W fork oil and the forks rebound as expected and feel much less stiff. (Stiction is OK)

    I'm going to do my first ride tomorrow and who knows... I may end up using 7.5 or 10w oil.... but at least now i'm not afraid my arms will get punished from the stiffness.

    I'll report back...

  7. #22
    '92 R100GS '81 R100/t brittrunyon's Avatar
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    Maybe I missed it in your post but:
    What bike are you working on?
    Did you put RTGV's in both tubes?
    Nice work. Thanks for sharing.
    1992 R100 GS, 1981 R100/t, 2007 F 650 GS

    No Rules Photography at http://brittrunyon.com/
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  8. #23
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    Not sure which of us you are asking but I did it on my R90S and you do have to do it in both tubes.

    Quote Originally Posted by brittrunyon View Post
    Maybe I missed it in your post but:
    What bike are you working on?
    Did you put RTGV's in both tubes?
    Nice work. Thanks for sharing.
    61 Gold Star, 76 R90S, 03 CBR600RR, '13 690 Duke, '14 Street Triple R

  9. #24
    Registered User j_withers's Avatar
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    It is a 1972 R75/5

    Quote Originally Posted by j_withers View Post
    Hey Gang, I am trying to wrap my head around the 15W fork oil. It seems extremely heavy for a 1972 /5 BMW. Is it due to the Widened holes on the dampener rod?

  10. #25
    not lost til out of gas 128521's Avatar
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    morning all, J_withers didn't follow race tech's instructions, they call for a 15 mm preload on the fork springs, which is one of your adjustments for how stiff your forks are. race tech also says you can use anywhere from 5wt fork fluid to 30wt, although anything over 15wt is probably for racing. also they make 3 different springs for the GV, which can each be set from 0 to 7 turns. I just put GV's in my 1990 R 100 GSPD ( different forks than you guys ) and am thrilled with the results. I put a GV in both sides, after some mods, yellow spring, set to 2 turns, 10wt fluid, this is probably stiffer than you would want for the street, ( unless you like to go fast ) but I am thrilled with how my bike handles now.
    don't know where I'm going, but I'm making good time. 1990 R 100 GSPD, 2005 R 1200 GS

  11. #26
    Registered User j_withers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 128521 View Post
    morning all, J_withers didn't follow race tech's instructions, they call for a 15 mm preload on the fork springs, which is one of your adjustments for how stiff your forks are.
    You are correct, I initially didn't have the 15mm preload. I do now though.
    Although, when i first put the forks together, the springs were at the top of the forks and I had to press them down to secure the upper fork nut. Perhaps it was how the bike was sitting.
    Upon second inspection when i realized everything was so stiff, the springs were far from the top (on centerstand) and i had to increase my PVC size for the correct preload.

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