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Thread: Gold Valve Emulator

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  1. #1
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    Gold Valve Emulator

    First of all, you shouldn't take any of my advice here because I am a mediocre mechanic at best. More than one project has ended up at a dealer to fix my mistakes. In fact, I wouldn't take my own advice but when I'm out in the garage, there's no one else to ask. Second of all, I'm only half way through the project and I won't find out how well it works until April. If I'm lucky.

    Still, as I've spent some time on this and emailed with RaceTech several times, I thought I would share what I (may) have learned. First, the package is labeled NV for No Video. It turns out there isn't a video and the labeling is for internal consistency.

    Second of all, and more importantly, the instructions, which are otherwise quite good, are not specific for BMW's. The product is sold for 70-92 airheads and there are a number of differences in the forks over that period of time. There are some brief comments/instructions on the web page, here
    http://old.racetech.com/evalving/eng...ngname=english

    However, I emailed Mat Wiley, listed as the "Vintage God" on RT's website and he sent me some different instructions. If you decide to install these, email Matt yourself as I am not going to claim I understood him perfectly. I'll show you what I did do based on my emails with him.

    I'll break this into a few posts to get the pictures in. Break out your Clymer manual and compare to the pictures in there.

    When you disassemble the forks, you probably don't need to create a tool as the Clymer instructs -- the bottom nut under the rubber cover will loosen with a socket if the spring is still installed (Edit: I did end up making the tool to make sure it was tight enough on reassembly). Once you remove the fork leg, you also do not need to take out the circlip and the two threaded spacers with a non threaded spacer from the fork tube. However, I would. Like me you might find this:
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by ccolwell; 03-16-2010 at 11:17 AM.
    61 Gold Star, 76 R90S, 03 CBR600RR, '13 690 Duke, '14 Street Triple R

  2. #2
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    Indeed, you might want to buy a couple of these bushing/spacers before you start. The one on the other fork was not broken, but didn't look good. It's supposed to look like this. Edit: the Clymer manual does not show this in its disassembly/reassembly instructions.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by ccolwell; 01-07-2010 at 01:01 PM.
    61 Gold Star, 76 R90S, 03 CBR600RR, '13 690 Duke, '14 Street Triple R

  3. #3
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    After two emails checking that I had it right, I opened up the four compression holes at the bottom of the damping rod to 1/4" and added two more 1/4" damping holes just above those. I asked and was told to leave the holes that are slightly higher on the rod alone. While it looks like that would weaken the tube, the tube is thicker internally where I drilled the new holes. The ball in the picture is a check valve that bottoms out between the lower and upper holes (here, left and right). The ball and spring should be discarded. Edit: ultimately, this was not sufficient. You need to add a third set of holes above (to the right in the picture) as shown in the kit instructions.
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    Last edited by ccolwell; 03-16-2010 at 11:20 AM.
    61 Gold Star, 76 R90S, 03 CBR600RR, '13 690 Duke, '14 Street Triple R

  4. #4
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    The instructions on the website say to drill a 5/16" hole through the top of the damping rod. Matt suggested simply cutting off the top of the rod just below the rebound holes. I didn't like that idea as it would prevent me from ever disassembling the upper part of the rod which holds the top out spring and some thin rings that seal the tube (no, I have no idea why I'd ever want to do that, still...). However, the hole I drilled was off center, so I split the difference and cut the nut off the top. That way I can still use a drift through the holes to unloosen the part.
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    61 Gold Star, 76 R90S, 03 CBR600RR, '13 690 Duke, '14 Street Triple R

  5. #5
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    Lastly, you need to make a spacer out of PVC pipe to fit between the emulator and the damping rod. You simply need to make sure the lock nut on the bottom of the emulator is clear of the top of the rod. RT sends some PVC tubing with springs, if you buy those as well. It may not be enough to make these spacers and the preload spacers for the springs, but that's tomorrow's project. I am taking my good time doing this. Being unemployed at least has some benefits. Per my emails with Matt, I also have to check the preload on the emulator spring -- note you can adjust the damping by changing the emulator spring (that blue spring on top of the gold doohickey, excuse me, emulator) and/or preload.

    BTW, click on the fork springs link on the web page above and then use the calculator to check what springs they recommend. The check the stock fork spring rate. I've never seen anything that soft. My 900SS had something like .55 stock and they were very soft. I put .85's in the Duc and it was lighter than the R90S.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    61 Gold Star, 76 R90S, 03 CBR600RR, '13 690 Duke, '14 Street Triple R

  6. #6
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    I'm still wondering how to clean out the inside of the damping rod thoroughly to make sure I have all the debris from the drilling. I don't have a parts washer and just spraying carb cleaner and WD40 through the center is not gving me that warm, fuzzy feeling of confidence. Any suggestions?
    61 Gold Star, 76 R90S, 03 CBR600RR, '13 690 Duke, '14 Street Triple R

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