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Thread: Swing arm installation

  1. #1
    Registered User kwb210's Avatar
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    Swing arm installation

    I removed the swing arm for clutch replacement. I mistakenly removed the lock nuts instead of just turning them a half or full turn and then removing the bolt. I am starting from scratch. So now I am asking, what is involved in installing the swing arm so the rear wheel will track right.
    1977 R100/7
    Thanks!
    Kurt

  2. #2
    ABC,AMA(LIFE),MOA,RA,IBMW MANICMECHANIC's Avatar
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    Get a bunch of drill bits. Install the swing arm and eye-ball center it using the pivot pins. Then use a single drill bit as a measuring device and check the clearance on each side of the swingarm to the frame. Adjust the pivot pins until you achieve equal clearance on each side. Torque to the requisite setting, recheck the clearance, then torque the locknuts and recheck the clearance.
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  3. #3
    #4869 DennisDarrow's Avatar
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    It doesnt matter WHAT your measuring device is, a twig from the ground, a set of calipers, a calibrated measure rule, or a drill bit. What matters is that they are the same.
    Torque of the lock nut is 72 ft lbs of torque. I assume you have the contriversial how to produce proper socket. Make sure that you lubricate the assembly properly. I prefer to coat the "pin" itself before inserting it and then LOTS after torque is applied.........hmmmmmm some mod will ban this for how it sounds????......

    Good luck......Dennis

  4. #4
    --Tony AnnapolisAirhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DennisDarrow View Post
    It doesnt matter WHAT your measuring device is, a twig from the ground, a set of calipers, a calibrated measure rule, or a drill bit. What matters is that they are the same.
    Torque of the lock nut is 72 ft lbs of torque. I assume you have the contriversial how to produce proper socket. Make sure that you lubricate the assembly properly. I prefer to coat the "pin" itself before inserting it and then LOTS after torque is applied.........hmmmmmm some mod will ban this for how it sounds????......

    Good luck......Dennis
    I thought the same things as I read your post. Fortunately our mods are well informed and know you are giving good advice.
    '83 R100RT'd
    '71 R75/5 SWB
    '06 KLR 650

  5. #5
    "Enthusiast" King's Avatar
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    I always use a pack of feeler gauges. Just select the amount that provides the thickness you are working toward and swing the others out of the way.
    Don Braasch # 9049
    2003 K1200RS 1981 R100RS
    1974 R75 "S" 1977 R60/7

  6. #6
    bpeckm bpeckm's Avatar
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    The way the swingarm and driveshaft are engineered, even a twig will work fine... any misalignment that you are likely to have will be easily taken up by the u-joint in the driveshaft. You are simply trying to get the swingarm centered, behind the centered engine. The driveshaft will automatically be precisely aligned inside the swingarm, by virtue of bolting up to the output shaft of the tranny, which is what really matters. You are simply allowing the clearance within to be as uniform as possible.

    Boils down to this: center it as best you can without being obsessive about it.

    bpeckm
    Middletown RI
    1983 R80ST "modified"

  7. #7
    undercompensating BUBBAZANETTI's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AnnapolisAirhead View Post
    I thought the same things as I read your post. Fortunately our mods are well informed and know you are giving good advice.


    haha, yup!

    as to the first part of your suggestion, i think i used a pen last time i did mine.
    04 GS ADV

  8. #8
    Focused kbasa's Avatar
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    I used a 5mm hex key as my spacer guide. It worked perfectly.
    Dave Swider
    Marin County, CA

    Some bikes. Some with motors, some without.

  9. #9
    Registered User
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    i like feeler gauges. pretty much the very thing they are made for.
    i guess twigs are the correct tool if you really want to reinforce the "shade tree mechanic" title.
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

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