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Thread: K75S DIY painting (& polished tank) thread

  1. #136
    BMW uber alles! Zagando's Avatar
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    Coolant for my K Part II

    I believe you, Phil and I'm sure many others can say the same. I appreciate your input.

    Inasmuch as there's no clear-cut consensus on the best anti-freeze for K-bikes (I read a number of threads on the subject here---and was more confused by doing so) I decided to err on the side of caution. Motorex is bike-specific (and I know that our bikes have car engines, but...) and formulated more or less the same as Motul.

    I also have read of problems with regular Prestone and that it does contain some phosphates (even though it may state otherwise on the label). I figured why take a chance?

    Now I just hope this doesn't turn into another oil thread...
    ---Jeff

    ex: K75S Berlina R100GS/PD , K100RS , R75/5 , R60/2

  2. #137
    Still plays with trains. tinytrains's Avatar
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    Maybe I am just lucky, but my K75 has run on green Prestone and distilled water for 21 years and is clean as a whistle inside. I change it about every 5 years. The fact that the entire cooling system is one type of metal (aluminium) helps a lot.

    I am not against running premium coolant, just posting my results.

    Scott
    1988 K75 Low Seat
    2009 R1200R Roadster

  3. #138
    Registered User PHMARVIN's Avatar
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    Hi, Jeff,
    It's your bike and I wouldn't try to steer you wrong. I looked at the "no nitrites" years ago and then looked at the price of BMW anti-freeze. I read the ingredients for Wal-Mart anti-freeze, then later, Texaco anti-freeze and later still, Prestone anti-freeze. None said anything about nitrites. I've used all three, with no ill effects.

    I am frugal, or a cheap SOB, whichever you prefer. That's why I use Wal-Mart anti-freeze, Autolite 4163 spark plugs, Auto Zone or O'Reilly fuel filters, Mobil 1 15w50 synthetic (car) oil - NOT the more expensive 20w50 motorcycle specific oil, blow out and reuse OEM air filters for at least 50k miles, etc. Like you, there are some things I won't compromise. I use OEM or (recently) Mahle OC-91 oil filters.
    Ride Safe,
    Phil Marvin - El Paso, TX
    '94 K75A/3
    '95 K75RTP

  4. #139
    BMW uber alles! Zagando's Avatar
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    Angry Coolant update & gas tank leak

    Hi Phil; I'm usually frugal as well. This time I decided to splurge on the coolant. Turns out it's blue (just like my instrument cluster LEDs). I got around to flushing the cooling system and refilling it today on my first day off in a while. As usual it all took me longer than expected but I got it done. I didn't spill too much and what I did I cleaned up well---we have curious cats on the premises.

    I unlatched the seat so I could lift the gas tank off partially without it getting in the way.

    Rigged up a bungee cord onto the tank and stuffed some foam underneath it so I could gain access to the radiator cap while having the gas tank/fuel line still connected:



    This way I was able to start and run the engine while adding coolant. I also hooked up a length of 6" ducting to the muffler which helped get about 50% of the exhaust fumes out of the carport; I still had to run outside, take a deep breath and hold it while slowly adding the Motorex.

    (In retrospect, I probably should have gotten out my fresh-air feed respirator and used it while the engine was running but this half-baked method worked OK.)

    I also siphoned out the resevoir* without having to undo it from the frame and thoroughly flushed the sytem with distilled water (twice) before adding the pre-mixed coolant.
    *


    When I got the engine going I noticed what looked like some milky oil in the sight glass---not a good sign, I think. Later on it seemed to clear up and looked like honey, so maybe it's OK.

    This is what it looked like at first:


    Note the waxy stuff around the center dot---should I be worried about this?

    Something else croppped up that is definitely a bummer---it appears that I have a small leak in my gas tank. It's in the likely place for such a leak to occur---the lower left point where corrosion occurs first in a lot of K tanks.

    I discovered it because I had put several ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil in the tank when I added a small quantity of fuel for the first time since cleaning and polishing the tank last summer. Last week when I reinstalled the engine covers I noticed a reddish fluid all over the left side of the plastic wrap I had covered the camshafts with (to protect the internals while I was painting the covers). At first I thought the fuel line was leaking but today I realized it was coming from the tank's seam as best as I could determine. I ran a paper towel along the underside and there it was; more red fluid (looks just like power steering fluid).

    So the tank will come off for a careful external cleaning and application of either JB Weld or FastSteel (my trusty favorite epoxy putty from Home Depot) soon.

    Another (lesser) problem is that my throttle body springs are getting rusty:



    I'll probably spray some Inox (Australian corrosion inhibitor/penetrant that may be superior to WD-40 if the claims on the can are valid; non-toxic, will not harm metals, won't wash off, has no acid-forming ingredients, etc., etc.) after trying to brush them with a stainless or brass brush.

    Any thoughts on this, anyone?

    Suggestions are welcome---I'm leery of messing with the TBs in the first place.

    It's getting late so I'll stop rambling and get some shut-eye now.

    One last recent photo, though (the repainted footpeg plates shortly before last week's reinstallation):
    Last edited by nh7robmw; 02-05-2010 at 10:31 AM. Reason: fat fingers, small keyboard
    ---Jeff

    ex: K75S Berlina R100GS/PD , K100RS , R75/5 , R60/2

  5. #140
    BMW uber alles! Zagando's Avatar
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    5 February update: Headlight & cluster back on, gas tank removed for leak fix.

    Made a decent bit of progress today.

    I decided to see if I could install the headlight and center cowling before the fairing side panels come back from the painter's (I know, I know, someday this'll all be finished...).

    To make a long story short, I succeeded in getting the headlight AND newly revised instrument cluster installed and hooked up. Now the fairing sides should reattach easily as far as I can tell.

    Before the teardown I had always figured it would be practically impossible to do things in this order as there wouldn't be a way to reach inside the headlight cowl to reattach the various bolts and screws. I was wrong. It was---and should be (when I finish it up)---a piece of cake!

    Here's some photos of how it went back together:

    BEFORE:


    Used a 3mm allen socket (turned by hand) to reconnect the multi pin connector to the back of the cluster:


    Then installed the four M6 bolts into the cluster base with another socket bit underneath:


    Voila!

    Switched on the ignition; hit the starter and the 90/100w Bosch headlight came to life (now seems to benefit considerably from the Eastern Beaver H4 relay I installed last month---the light was very bright!)


    Once I got this part done it was on to siphoning out most of the gas left in the tank and removing it for further inspection. I wanted to make sure that the leak was at the lower left seam and not the O-ring between the sender and the tank body.

    Sure enough, the left-side seam was the culprit, as suspected:


    Here's another shot to give a better perspective as to size and location:


    I also discovered another spot of corrosion on the opposite side---I don't think it's leaking yet but I will attend to this as well as the others as soon as I get some proper epoxy:


    Just realized that the undertank insulation must be fiberglass---I never noticed it until I was uploading these photos. Another reason to always wear gloves when working on the bike.
    ---Jeff

    ex: K75S Berlina R100GS/PD , K100RS , R75/5 , R60/2

  6. #141
    BMW uber alles! Zagando's Avatar
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    Tank pinholes revealed

    Got out my electric drill and 3" brass brush attachment today; here are the results: (good thing I did both sides as the right side had a pinhole already started)

    Right side


    Left side


    My wife was in town today and picked up a tube of Fast Steel for me (she's the best); I'll be able to patch the areas well in the morning.

    This epoxy putty sets up hard as a rock in less than 5 minutes so it won't take long at all.
    ---Jeff

    ex: K75S Berlina R100GS/PD , K100RS , R75/5 , R60/2

  7. #142
    BMW uber alles! Zagando's Avatar
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    Tank repair done

    Cleaned the are around the pinholes with acetone (and then some Dawn). Broke off a half-inch chunk of FastSteel epoxy putty, kneaded it in my gloved hands for 3 or 4 minutes until it was nice and warm, then:





    The patches are now solid as a rock; should be good to go now.
    ---Jeff

    ex: K75S Berlina R100GS/PD , K100RS , R75/5 , R60/2

  8. #143
    BMW uber alles! Zagando's Avatar
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    Smile Flour, corn starch and possibly a ceramic coating

    After removing the tank to repair the small leaks I deemed it about time to repolish it as well. It hasn't been touched since I originally polished it last summer as I kind of wanted to see how long it would last before needing to get out the buffer and polish.

    I also remembered a tip that one of the ADV inmates gave me some time ago for the final polish---use flour and then corn starch to buff it up to a fine shine with. Sounded crazy enough to work so I gave it a try the other day:



    This is the tank on top of my Honda Ruckus which was the only thing I could round up to hold the tank in place while I hit it with the Makita and lots of corn starch. (I tried some unbleached white flour first but it didn't seem to make a lot of difference):





    It definitely improves the shine to some degree. However, I've yet to achieve perfection with anything on the sides of the tank where my knees will be---that part of the tank seems a bit coarser grained (unlike the top which is mirror-like).

    So my next move was to order a buffing spindle, spindle adapter and buffing wheel for my 6" lapidary unit that has a nice big 1/4 hp Baldor motor...

    I'm going to unmount it from the large rectangular Corian base I built for it and remount it temporarily on the very edge of my work table and get the buffing wheel out a ways (so as to best to reach all areas of the tank and any other large bits I might want to polish such as the stainless muffler). I'll try hitting the tank with some tripoli on a flannel wheel at 1750rpm and see what happens.

    It's my guess that if anything can polish those sides to perfection, this will.

    So I won't be installing the tank until I've got it looking the way it should, considering all the sweat and elbow grease I've invested. We'll see how it works out soon and be assured I will be posting pictures if it makes any noticeable difference.

    *********************

    Yesterday I removed the muffler and headers and ordered new copper crush rings and nuts so they'll be here by the time I reinstall it. I've decided to get the headers ceramic coated---if this outfit in Tennessee I found out about today will do the job at a reasonable cost. Come Tuesday I'll call them to get a quote and then ship them off for a nice satin black ceramic coating (inside & out).

    Although I cleaned and polished them last year the stainless headers quickly turned a dull brown after a few rides. This time, they'll get a finish that lasts and also may slightly improve combustion as well (the ceramic coating helps retain the heat inside the exhaust system and is good for 2000 degrees---not that they'll ever reach that at the speeds I putt around at).

    ****************

    A few days ago I cleaned and degreased the center stand and sidestand which were beginning to rust. Warmed them up with a heat gun and then sprayed them with multiple coats of VHT high temp paint (flat black was the only black the auto store had). No pix taken of these yet; maybe next time I think of it. The flat black is OK but more of a brownish black than a true black I was aiming for. No biggie, I'll periodically need to respray them in our wet environment anyway.

    After the paint was dry I hit them with the heat gun again to help the paint bond and cure.

    Next chance I get I'll load up my grease gun and get some new grease inside them and also replace one of the rubber/plastic caps that I noticed was missing on one side of the center stand, too (we don't want any water getting inside those hollow tubes anymore now, do we?).

    Lots more little updates will be forthcoming but it's dinnertime so must say "Aufswedersehen" for now
    ---Jeff

    ex: K75S Berlina R100GS/PD , K100RS , R75/5 , R60/2

  9. #144
    BMW uber alles! Zagando's Avatar
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    Arrow K75 Low seat, anyone? + Paint update

    UPDATE 25 FEB.: SADDLE & HDWE SOLD ON MOA FLEA MARKET A brief heads-up to anyone interested in doing a high-to-low seat conversion with their K75; I finally posted my Sargent, tank surround and necessary mounting hardware here in the Flea Market under Accessories today. (It is the same saddle seen in my beginning photos in this thread) Here's some photos which do not upload into the FM listing for some reason that escapes me:




    In other news, it looks as though I'll finally be picking up the last of the painted tupperware later this week, almost three months since I turned over that task to a custom paint shop guy in town. He's had some trouble getting a good finish with the PPG clear coat (mostly due to specks of dust and bugs finding their way onto the top coats) but he's now gotten the right results after resanding and respraying several times.

    Cleaned up my muffler in the kitchen sink (while my wife was at work last night) with some warm Simple Green; I think I'll periodically remove it and repolish it from time-to-time as it takes all of five minutes to do so. I also cleaned up the headers with some CLR and will get them ready to ship to MR Performance Coatings in Tennessee soon (am also comparing Jet Hot and Performance Coatings in case I decide to go with something other than MR's Satin Black finish)

    Stay tuned; I'll be posting photos of my tank and muffler can as soon as I get my new buffing wheel up and running later this week (I'll have a few days in a row off from work so I should be able to get a lot done in one stretch)
    Last edited by nh7robmw; 02-25-2010 at 11:16 PM.
    ---Jeff

    ex: K75S Berlina R100GS/PD , K100RS , R75/5 , R60/2

  10. #145
    BMW uber alles! Zagando's Avatar
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    Smile Painting done!

    Picked up the remaining pieces of tupperware from Chad yesterday afternoon.

    I was a bit disappointed at first as there were a lot of tiny nibs in the paint. He assured me that a wet-sanding with 2000 grit and polish would remedy that; sure enough, it's all working out well.

    Today I started sanded everything where there were obvious runs in the clear coat along with a few unlucky bugs.

    Hit them with the buffer foam pad and some Meguiar's PlastX (my all-around favorite polish besides Simichrome) and you can hardly tell that they were there...

    Busy with plenty of work stuff and an anniversary now so would otherwise post some recent pics; soon to follow when I can catch my breath!
    ---Jeff

    ex: K75S Berlina R100GS/PD , K100RS , R75/5 , R60/2

  11. #146
    Italo Train k75s's Avatar
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    K75S Header Coatings

    Just noticed that you are looking at coatings for your headers. I have been looking at Jet Hot for their Sterling finish. I have not asked them yet, but I wonder if it would be better to try this on a new set of headers vs. the used header on my bike.

    Whatever color you decide, looking forward to some pics after it is done.
    92 K75s (never sell), 97 F650st (sold), 04 R1100s (now owned by a deer), and about 10 others

  12. #147
    BMW uber alles! Zagando's Avatar
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    Ceramic coating, wet-sanding and such...

    K75S,

    Yes, I sent my headers off for ceramic coating on the 17th---they should be back here around the 10th-15th of March if not sooner. Don't worry, I'll be sure to post several photos.

    I decided going with Performance Coatings in Auburn, Washington as they do a really nice bright aluminum-looking finish called Chromex. A bit more expensive than the standard satin finishes but it was strongly recommended to me by someone who's had it done. I called them up and talked to Derrick there before shipping---he said they usually media blast things first and also polish them after the coating in a vibratory tumbler---so you could either send them something new or well-used for coating, no problem. I do think that the better that the piece is to begin with that the better the outcome will be, though.

    The Chromex finish should complement the other polished aluminum on my bike so I decided to give it a try. I also plan to re-buff the muffler and gas tank once I get my buffing wheel all set up; the spindle adapter and flannel buff I ordered will be here in a few more days.

    Here's a picture of my headers just before I sent them off (I had also cleaned them up with some CLR and No. 7 Metal Polish which both helped to remove the brownish discoloration fairly well):



    Finally got a chance to continue wet-sanding the rest of the painted parts this afternoon---they're almost all ready for polishing which I hope to have completed tomorrow. Then I can really start reassembling the bike, only having to wait for some new OEM bolts, muffler clamp and a gasket (that's apparently been missing fom my bike's exhaust system) ordered from MaxBMW. The front brake caliper bolts were pretty rusty so I decided to spring for some new ones. I remembered to also order a rubber cap for one side of the center stand tubes so water will no longer get inside (hopefully).

    The tank will go on last as I want to get it well-polished before refilling it and starting up the bike again.

    Here's one photo I took of the buffing process the other day (wanted to see how well it would work out before doing the rest) with a fairing side panel:



    I'll try to take some more photos when I've finished all the sanding and polishing before I put them back on the bike, too. Needless to say, I'm getting excited nearing the completion of all of this!
    ---Jeff

    ex: K75S Berlina R100GS/PD , K100RS , R75/5 , R60/2

  13. #148
    BMW uber alles! Zagando's Avatar
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    Minor update

    Got the sanding and polishing all done today and will start reattaching the trim/moulding and various bits to the fairing pieces tomorrow. Then back on the bike they go!

    While it all went OK the price I had to pay to get a smooth finish was a surface with much less "depth" than with all that luscious clear coat. Such is life and motorcycle painting, I suppose.

    I did get rid of about 90% of the runs in the clearcoat without sanding through the base coat, at least.

    I will try out some Lemon Pledge or paste wax eventually which might help give everything a tad more shine as well as ward off deterioration from our acid rain environment here.

    Here are a couple of photos I took while in process; the finished results look much better, of course---I'll shoot pix of those when they're back on the bike.





    This arrangement helped me considerably while I tried to do the edges and narrow areas by myself:

    ---Jeff

    ex: K75S Berlina R100GS/PD , K100RS , R75/5 , R60/2

  14. #149
    Registered User froggy's Avatar
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    what started out as a sall project...

    Found your thread this morning and read it all...your not done yet?
    Reading this reminds me of a cust. that wanted her counter tops replaced.
    Well now that she was putting new counters might as well replace the cabinets.Since we are replacing the cabinets we can now replace that old floor.You know the appliances are looking....
    I can not wait to see the final product when its finished in 2012
    U really are doing your ride justice.
    We drove all this way for a DEAD END ! My son!!!

    02 Silver RT1150 My 1st BMW Bike
    Craig

  15. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by froggy View Post
    Found your thread this morning and read it all...your not done yet?
    Reading this reminds me of a cust. that wanted her counter tops replaced.
    Well now that she was putting new counters might as well replace the cabinets.Since we are replacing the cabinets we can now replace that old floor.You know the appliances are looking....
    I can not wait to see the final product when its finished in 2012
    U really are doing your ride justice.
    Ouch. Burn.
    1994 K75/2

    Owner/Designer, LampOneDesigns.com

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