HEXHEAD Tech - R1200XX - Rear-Drive Fluid Change and Spline Lube - Pre 2008 DIY

[Semper_Fi]

The articles, posts and comments in this tech section are posted by individual members and reflect their personal thoughts and experiences with repairing, maintaining, and generally working on motorcycles. This information may require specific knowledge and skills, may or may not be correct or current to model.

The authors of information found here and the BMW MOA take no responsibility for ensuring the accuracy of any information (including procedures, techniques, parts numbers, torque values, tool usage, etc.), or further for any damage of any kind or injuries incurred or caused by anyone following the instructions or information found here.

It is the duty of the individual to either assume the liability himself for responsibly using the information found here, or to take the bike or accessory to a Dealer or other qualified professional service.

Lastly, please ensure you dispose of your used chemicals, oils and fuels in an environmentally responsible manner. Most Auto Parts stores and service stations will accept used oil and lubricants, tires and batteries, please check for your local availability.

This article, text and photos are Copyright of the individual authors and the BMW MOA, any copying or redistributing is permitted only by prior written authorization.


Note – products used are by personal choice and do not represent any affiliation to the product lines.

Note – please ensure you dispose of your used chemicals, oils and fuels in an environmentally responsible manner.

BMW recommends to have the fluid warmed up when you change, as such you will be working on and near the exhaust - ensure the you take the appropriate safety pre-cautions if you plan to work with the bike warmed up.

LET'S START

Subject bike is a 2005 R1200ST non-abs version

Bike should be on a flat level surface on its center stand and the saddle bags removed.

Required tools:



3/8" Drive Tools:
- Torque Wrench
- Ratchet
- 6" Extension
- 15mm Deep Socket
- 16mm Deep Socket
- T45 Torx
- T50 Torx
1/4" Drive Tools
- ratchet
- 6" extension
- T25 Torx

2 small standard screw drivers, short and long blade
Alignment bar

Drain bucket

Materials:

- Pro Honda Moly 60 Paste (can obtain from most Honda dealerships)


- BMW 75W90 Gear Oil

- New Nut for strut bolt BMW Part Number 07 12 9 964 676



General Process Review

1 - relocate muffler - not required to remove
2 - remove rear tire/wheel assembly
3 - remove rear caliper
4 - remove speed sensor and wiring from final drive
5 - remove strut connection to drop final drive for draining and spline lubing
6 - drain FD, lube spline
7 - reconnect FD
8 - fill FD
9 - re-install speed sensor
10 - re-install caliper
11 - re-install wheel assembly
12 - re-located the muffler
13 - ride


Here you lossen the muffler clamp and remove the muffler hanger bolt to swing the muffler out of your way


Loosen muffler clamp and push down onto pipe to clear


Remove Muffler Hanger Bolt


Now swing muffler out of the way - if you place your right hand on the tail pipe end and your left by the clamp end you can wiggle slightly and it will easily "walk" it's way down.

Remove the rear wheel - put bike in gear.


Use a T-50 Torx - note bolts have already been removed


Special Note - please look closely at the threads - these bolts are to have NO lubricate or anti-seize or any other substance on them - they come out dry, they go in dry.

Remove the caliper


Use a T-45 Torx and remove the two bolts. Once the bolts are removed, pull caliper off of the bike and support to keep caliper out of the work area.


Loosen the "drain" bolt of the final drive

This is a T-45 Torx

Speed Sensor Removal - Put bike in neutral


Location of speed sensor is shown with screwdriver


Remove securing speed sensor screw with a T-25 Torx


Remove speed sensor wire routing clamp - please note the small detent of clamp recessed in the final drive - this placement is critical for re-assembly so that the disc does not chafe thru the wire - again use a T-25 Torx


Carefully pry off the wire clip off of the mount of the drive shaft section.

Next step is to remove the speed sensor and wiring from the final drive so as to be able to drop the FD section


CAREFULLY pry out the speed sensor - there is some slight resistance due to a sealing o-ring

sealing o-ring

Move the disc accordingly to be able to maximize clearance for the sensor removal


Wipe off material on the sensor as it is magnetic.

Route speed sensor and wire harness out of the way for the next step

[Semper_Fi]

Remove the Strut Nut and Bolt to drop Final Drive


This is the nut to be removed and later replaced - 16mm, note there is a washer behind the nut


The bolt which goes thru the strut and supports the FD to the shaft drive tunnel - the bolt is a T-50 Torx

Remove the nut but leave the bolt in. When you are ready to drop the final drive - support the final drive as shown and pull out the bolt.


As the Final drive is lowered - push off the accordion rubber boot


At this point you may need to apply some SLIGHT pressure to disengage the final drive from the drive shaft spline - the picture below shows the decoupling


Final drive ready to be drained and lube

At this point remove the drain bolt and allow the final drive to drain into the drain bucket. While this is going on you can prep the splines for lubing.
RECYCLE NOTE: for proper disposal of waste fluid please refer to this link to find approved recycling centers in your area http://earth911.com/ - special thanks to Ted for providing the link.

Clean the old junk off both the FD spline and the drive shaft coupler


Ready for lubing


Use the Moly 60 lubricant, apply liberally to the spline and receiver.




SPECIAL TIP - to facilitate the re-coupling of the final drive to the shaft drive I pre-connect (slightly) the final drive shaft and the u-joint of the drive shaft with the boot out of the way. This is done by bringing up the drive and adjusting the u-joint of the drive shaft to the spline to make sure they are/will mate - you may need to move the disc a little bit to get in the right place. If you do need to adjust the disc make sure you left no lube on the disc - wipe off.

Install accordion rubber boot - place on drive shaft tunnel side


With boot in place, bring up the final drive, align Final Drive Spline to the drive shaft coupler (u-joint) and lift up and in. You should feel it popping in place, if it is not going in maintain pressure and move the disc slightly and it will pop on.

You will know when it is in completely in because the bolt hole for the strut support will line up the hole in the housing of the final drive - throw the strut bolt in to hold in place.


Secure and torque the strut bolt, put on the washer first and install the new nut


Hold the bolt with the T-50 Torx on a ratchet and then torque the nut to 42nM


The final drive splines are now lubed and reconnected to the bike, the balance of the procedure comprises of filling up the final drive with the gear oil, reconnecting the speed sensor, mounting the caliper and wheel assembly and then relocating the muffler back in place.

Let's start with the fluid fill

Put drain bolt back into final drive and torque to 20nM

Note - It is up to you how you want to fill the rear drive, there are many ways of doing it - I use a small squirt bottle to control fluid flow and minimize making a mess.

Fill your container of choice with 180ml of gear oil and insert into the speed sensor hole - fill until complete.
- Please note as of the latest update to the BMW Repair Manual the specification for the rear drive fill was changed to 180ml as of 05/09.



Once complete wipe off any spillage and prepare to insert the speed sensor back into position.


Special Tip - if you lube slightly the o-ring of the speed sensor it makes the insertion process much easier and helps prevent splitting the o-ring which could cause a leak later


Insert the speed senor squarely into the speed sensor hole until you feel resistance


Once you have felt the resistance - with even, steady, GENTLE pressure push the speed sensor in until it is flush with the final drive housing - you will feel it essentially pop in.


Now secure the speed sensor with a T-25 Torx bolt

Routing the speed sensor wiring - pay special attention to these steps to ensure proper routing else a potential of chafing thru the speed sensor wiring can occur.

Special note - there is a small recess hole in the final drive to accomadate a detent on the clip retainer for the second speed sensor wiring support

Ensure it is properly located and tighted down

[Semper_Fi]

Ensure it is properly located and tighted down


Install wire harness clip onto drive shaft tunnel


The speed sensor wiring relocation is complete - install the caliper


The caliper should slide right on, if not open the pads slightly to get the access you need.

Install the 2 T-45 Torx bolts and torque to 24 nM

Wheel Installation

As stated earlier there is to be no lubricating substance of any kind applied to the threads - they came out dry, they go in dry.

Put the bike in gear and mount the wheel assembly to the FD hub

Manually tighten all the bolts.

When final tightening - tighten in a Star pattern to 60nM

Once the wheel assembly is secure re-locate the muffler to it's original position

The nut that secures the hanger screw is captured but is able to float, therefore it is usually out of place for re-install


To addess this issue I use an alignment pin to get everything straight and then put the bolt thru

Put the hangar bolt in hand tight at this time

Secure the muffler clamp - please take note of alignment marks between the muffler and the clamp itself

Align the marks and tighten and torque to 55nm

Finish securing the muffler hanger bolt to 19nm

Final Drive Fluid Change and Spline Lube Complete - go ride!!